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Discussion Starter #1
My 2010 Commander has manual climate control and third row heating/cooling. I have no heat up front on any setting. The heat for the third row system works perfectly.

I've done the reset for the blend doors and run the diagnostic. I've come up empty handed. I've checked the coolant system, plenty of fluid. Hasn't been flushed recently. I haven't flushed it because my thought process is that if the problem was coolant system related then the third row wouldn't work. Correct me if I'm wrong please.

I'm leaning towards just buying the blend door motor and assembly and doing it. Im not wanting to freeze this winter.
 

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Living in FL I don't know much about heat, but what I have heard is the 3rd seat is on a different ac unit from the rest of the truck. Maybe the heat is the same. I would remove the( when the system is cold) radiator cap and turn on the front heat to full and run the engine to ensure no air is trapped in the system.
 

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Heater Hoses

Here is a picture from my 06 Limited with Hemi, all will look very similar with rear heat. The red wire is just my MDS indicator connection. Feel the hoses after engine warmed up - they should be hot. This is passenger side view of firewall.

 

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My 2010 Commander has manual climate control and third row heating/cooling. I have no heat up front on any setting. The heat for the third row system works perfectly.

I've done the reset for the blend doors and run the diagnostic. I've come up empty handed. I've checked the coolant system, plenty of fluid. Hasn't been flushed recently. I haven't flushed it because my thought process is that if the problem was coolant system related then the third row wouldn't work. Correct me if I'm wrong please.

I'm leaning towards just buying the blend door motor and assembly and doing it. Im not wanting to freeze this winter.
How did you check for coolant? If you just check at the overflow jug, you could get an inaccurate reading. If there is a leak in the system, it can draw air back into the cooling system instead of coolant from the overflow jug, leaving the overflow jug full, but the level on the cooling system dropping.

You have to open the pressure cap and look into the radiator, the coolant should be within 1" of the bottom of the pressure cap, if it is NOT you're low on coolant. Only do this when the cooling system is cool, you open it when its hot and it could burst scalding coolant all over you and burn you severely.

The diagnostic says everything is fine on the air blend doors, but you're going to replace them anyway? I'd look more into the cooling system first.

If the level in the cooling system dropped, it often can't circulate coolant through the heater core to make heat. The rear lines are lower, so the front heater core going out before the back heater core makes sense to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is a picture from my 06 Limited with Hemi, all will look very similar with rear heat. The red wire is just my MDS indicator connection. Feel the hoses after engine warmed up - they should be hot. This is passenger side view of firewall.

I appreciate your reply but i can't see any picture. Might be my internet connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How did you check for coolant? If you just check at the overflow jug, you could get an inaccurate reading. If there is a leak in the system, it can draw air back into the cooling system instead of coolant from the overflow jug, leaving the overflow jug full, but the level on the cooling system dropping.

You have to open the pressure cap and look into the radiator, the coolant should be within 1" of the bottom of the pressure cap, if it is NOT you're low on coolant. Only do this when the cooling system is cool, you open it when its hot and it could burst scalding coolant all over you and burn you severely.

The diagnostic says everything is fine on the air blend doors, but you're going to replace them anyway? I'd look more into the cooling system first.

If the level in the cooling system dropped, it often can't circulate coolant through the heater core to make heat. The rear lines are lower, so the front heater core going out before the back heater core makes sense to me.
I checked the radiator first. It was full. I then checked the overflow, which was low. I added more. For a few minutes it felt warmer, not hot, but warmer. I really couldn't tell if it was due to the outside temperature (It was warm when I did this) or if it helped. Now it is back to blowing cold air. I can't really tell if it is blowing cold "A/C" air or just vent air because I haven't been smart enough to check it while it's still warm out since I checked everything.

That does make sense. I appreciate the information, I didn't know that they are lower. Would you suggest going ahead and doing a coolant flush?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Living in FL I don't know much about heat, but what I have heard is the 3rd seat is on a different ac unit from the rest of the truck. Maybe the heat is the same. I would remove the( when the system is cold) radiator cap and turn on the front heat to full and run the engine to ensure no air is trapped in the system.
I'm definitely going to try that on my lunch break here in a little bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I burped the radiator. Quite a few bubbles came up. Seemed like they came up mostly right before the fan turned on. The air got slightly warm as long as I kept the A/C button turned off. I assume it was just picking up hot air from the engine bay and sending it through the vents. It seemed to stay warm for a bit that night but now it's right back to being icy.

Since I bought it, the temp gauge never gets up to halfway. It will stay just to the left. I'm beginning to wonder if this is related in some way. Perhaps a new thermostat is in order?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh okay. I'm going to try and unclog the heater core this afternoon and see if that works. This is really starting to get frustrating. So here is where I am:

Diagnostics indicate blend doors are good.
Coolant level is good and air free
Will attempt to unclog any heater core clogs this afternoon
If this doesn't work then I suppose I will try an entire coolant flush. If that doesn't work then I will just take it to somebody I guess.
 

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Yea, I can't think of anything else either. You did a diagnostic on the air blend doors and it indicated they are good, that would be the only other thing I would suspect. So perhaps a clogged heater core that isn't letting the coolant flow through it.

I thought that was rather rare, but its possible. I don't know if you have coolant changed and/or topped off in the past, or by a previous owner. With the aftermarket selling all different types of anti-freezes and NOT identifying what type it is, people have been mixing incompatible types of anti-freeze. If that happened, you never know if some solids formed and clogged the heater core.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright. Cleaned the heater core and still nothing. I did the diagnostics again and I guess I didn't do it correctly the first time.

I wasn't sure if I am support to count the first blink when they both come on, but I'm either getting a DTC 45 or a DTC 55. I read that on WJ's, a 55 is a right side tempature door. That seems about right if the codes are the same for commanders.
 

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Hey guys, don't mean to hijack but I'm having almost exactly the same issue on my 06 with MTC manual climate control.

Getting no heat, ran the MTC diagnostic and it shows a code. Now I have the same question as daytripper's last post: what blink do you start counting from?

Does the initial AC/EBL flash where they both blink together count as DTC blink #1?

I made a video real quick:

Would this be a DTC 44 or a DTC 54?
 

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daytripper, I looked at the XK manual and it says:

DTC 45 Blend Door Bound (stuck?)
DTC 55 Blend Door Linkage Broken

If you pull down the panel under the steering wheel you can see 2 actuator motors on the side of the HVAC housing.
The bottom one controls the blend door and is held on by 2 Torx T20 screws:



Going by either of your DTCs the problem should be in that area. If you take the bottom actuator off you should be able to turn the blend door's peg by hand and see if you get any heat with the door all the way down or door all the way up(not sure which way is hot/cold)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright, I couldn't wait and went outside to check it. Took the actuator off and found the peg was stripped down and broken. I was able to turn the peg by hand and boom, hot air. Its amazing. I'm thrilled. So now the question is, where do I find a new peg?
 

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Nice, glad you found the problem. Unfortunately the peg doesn't seem to be available by itself. If someone knows better please post. They do sell it as part of the complete HVAC housing though.

In the manual they refer to it as Blend Door Cam. Its #13 on this diagram:


If you're able to turn the door by the peg without any problem, then luckily its not the shaft of the door broken inside the housing, that would require removing the whole dash to get to, or cutting an access hole into the housing, doing the fix, then duct taping the cut piece back on.

So really any way you can figure to attach the peg to the actuator will fix the problem. A really thin screw that wont crack the plastic? Drill a small hole for a metal cotter pin through both the peg and the actuator arm? Epoxy would work but you wouldn't be able to take it apart again if the actuator motor itself dies. Maybe pull a peg from a junkyard XK?

Otherwise the complete housing with the peg seems to run about $200:

Edit: For your 2010 its either of these two, check fitment tab for your exact model:
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/JEEP_2010_COMMANDER/HOUSING-Distribution/6778668/68020233AB.html
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/JEEP_2010_COMMANDER/HOUSING-Distribution/6783276/68020231AB.html
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nice, glad you found the problem. Unfortunately the peg doesn't seem to be available by itself. If someone knows better please post. They do sell it as part of the complete HVAC housing though.

In the manual they refer to it as Blend Door Cam. Its #13 on this diagram:


If you're able to turn the door by the peg without any problem, then luckily its not the shaft of the door broken inside the housing, that would require removing the whole dash to get to, or cutting an access hole into the housing, doing the fix, then duct taping the cut piece back on.

So really any way you can figure to attach the peg to the actuator will fix the problem. A really thin screw that wont crack the plastic? Drill a small hole for a metal cotter pin through both the peg and the actuator arm? Epoxy would work but you wouldn't be able to take it apart again if the actuator motor itself dies. Maybe pull a peg from a junkyard XK?

Otherwise the complete housing with the peg seems to run about $200:

Edit: For your 2010 its either of these two, check fitment tab for your exact model:
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/JEEP_2010_COMMANDER/HOUSING-Distribution/6778668/68020233AB.html
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/JEEP_2010_COMMANDER/HOUSING-Distribution/6783276/68020231AB.html
Thanks again for your help.
I took about the actuator and drilled a long screw stright through the largest gear. Then i drilled it into what is left of the peg. It made it say on hot air, which I'm okay with right now. I checked it out while turing the air temp knob and saw that the gear is turning but its not turning the screw. I'm going to try to super glue / epoxy the gear to the screw and see if that works. If not I guess I will just have to buy the entire housing and get ready to take off the dash in the spring.
 
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