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Discussion Starter #1
While inspecting the vihcle from below I noticed some oil building up at the Transfer case connector and motor ,, couldn't pinpoint from where the oil is leaking, so I washed it out to see from where it leaks .. here some pics .. anyone had such issue ? any advices ?













 

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I could be wrong but it looks like the gasket for the shift motor is bad. If so, should be an easy fix. Im not sure where else the oil could be coming from. Just make sure you clean those electrical connectors good.
 

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Well, now that you've cleaned it well, go back and keep checking it, you should be able to see the oil leak starting at its source.

But, I have to agree with 07JeepXK, if I had to guess, it really looks like the seal between the motor and the tcase.
 

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Im not quite sure where else the oil could be coming from and get all over the shift motor like that. Just pop off the shift motor and replace that gasket. It sould only cost a few dollars. Then spay down the underside of the vehicle again and see if it stops leaking.

I was changing my engine oil last night and while underneith the XK I noticed that my rack and pinion (steering rack) was completely coverd in oil right at the gear box just like your transfer case shift motor. After looking around for a bit I noticed that when I take off the oil filter, the oil drips down right on the gear box. There is a plastic pan under the oil filter but it doesnt seem to catch all the oil as it drips down. For a minute I thought my rack and pinion was bad and that Id have to replace it in the near future. On your XK, there really isnt anything above the shift motor that can leak down onto it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys for your inputs ,,, I'm wondering if changing the motor seal will make all the oil out and require complete oil change !!
 

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Im almost positive that you would need to drain the transfer case in order to replace the gasket. Otherwise you would just destroy the new gasket when installing it. Both mating surfaces have to be clean for it to seal properly. If fluid is coming out as your trying to put the gasket in then you will just contine to have a leak and you didnt fix the problem.
 

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A flat gasket, like paper gaskets or flat rubber gasket, or sealing using a bead of RTV, yes, do exactly like 07JeepXK says; you want a clean dry surface on both sides.

Manufacturers are coming up with all different and more effective seals now a days, and you really need to follow the instructions for those seals and NOT general rules.

The only exceptions I can think of:
*"O"-ring seals, or something akin to O-rings, is becoming more and more popular, even between flat flange like surfaces. Again follow any manufacturer instructions to the letter, but absent any instructions, O-rings are seals you usually want to lube with a little engine oil or the fluid they are designed to seal in before installing them.

*Shaped Silicone Seals/Gaskets, again follow the instructions from the manufacturer, which usually states to NOT use RTV or any other additional sealant with it. I learned from experience, follow the recommendation, those silicone gaskets will leak unless you follow the manufacturer instuctions and then they seal better than most.

*Using RTV in combination with gaskets; this has been hit and miss for me, as many times it has improved the sealing, it has hurt the sealing and caused it to leak. I stay away from adding RTV to a gasket, unless its called for in the instructions, like in the tight corners of some gaskets where you run a single line of RTV. Either use the gasket as intended or a bead of RTV, NOT both.

The gasket installed as the manufacturer intended seems to work best, the most amount of times, everytime I've thought I was smarter than the manufacturer and started improvising my own improvements, I more often than NOT ended up creating a leak in the gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
after cleaning and checking again I noticed that the oil comes out from the electrical connector and after removing the electrical connector I noticed that the oil comes out from the electrical pins !! ... it seems that the oil leaking inside from the transfer case into the motor case and somehow to the electrical pins as the only way out ... I didn't proceed more than that not knowing how it looks inside and what to expect!

Anyone has a photos for the Transfercase motor removed ? and how it looks at its base>?
 

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Well, it can only be one of two things, the motor is sealed to NOT allow oil into the part with the connector -OR- the oil is suppose to be behind the connector and the seal between the pins and body of the connector has failed.

Pull the motor and see which it is, you'll probably be able to tell with the motor off.

If its the seal between the motor and transfer case and should seal the oil out of the part with the connector, then cleaning up the motor and replacing the seal should seal the problem.

If it is, the oil should flow behind the connector and it is leaking between the pins and body, you may have to replace the motor.

The seal can't be more then a few bucks, try replacing it and see if the leak comes back, you won't be any worse off then you are now, you might solve the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will bring this up from the dead ,, I did not fix this issue till now ,, oil buildup still continuing.

Before I start this fix now ,, Anyone had such a problem and fixed it?
 

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Hi Ahmed, I have an XH model like yours with the 3 litre diesel. I have blow up the TC before and rebuilt it and had the shift motor off a few times and totally pulled it apart. Not a lot of oil should go into the shift motor as there is a seal on the shift shaft but it can leak a little fluid past this seal into the actuator. There is NO gasket between the shift motor (actuator) and the TC. They just bolt alloy to alloy, not even a sealant. I know of the wire connector and this should not leak as there should not be a build up or pressured oil in this component.
My first thing I'd do is change the oil. The Mopar TC hydraulic fluid is extremely expensive but is just "Mobil Hydraulic Fluid 424 - Tractor transmission/Hydraulic fluid rebranded. Because you do a lot of sand driving this does heat up the drive line and maybe you need to change the fluid. When was it last changed?
When the fluid is new it should be clear in colour. The fluid should be changed every 50,000 kilometers and by then it will be a honey colour.
Maybe the seal on the Shift shaft has started to leak too much. I haven't heard of this before but maybe time has cause a problem.
 
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