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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
About 50,000 miles ago, I installed a complete OME Old EMU HD kit with 265's.
I don't do much off-road. I installed the kit to get to my farmhouse without snow-plowing first.

Now, the ride is very harsh. Every little crack in the pavement is met with a clunk. I hate it !

Keeping the OME HD springs, I'm craving for a somewhat mellower ride.

What shocks are proven road friendly replacements for the OME ones ?


Dominik
Montreal.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bilsteins would be a good option. 5100s in the rear and 4600s in the front. What is making the clunking noise?
Luckyse7ens,

I do not know what is making this clunking noise. A friend of mine riding in the back told me he thought the noise was coming from the back...

Anyhow, I believe the OME shocks are goners. I have a set of new Al's UCA ready to install and will also replace that front wheel (or front differential) bearing that sings at the slightest left turn.

Will Blisteins fit the OME coils up front ?

If so, I will go with 4600s up-front and 5100s at the rear. I suppose that 5100s will be helpful while towing...

Dominik
Montreal.
 

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Luckyse7ens,

I do not know what is making this clunking noise. A friend of mine riding in the back told me he thought the noise was coming from the back...

Anyhow, I believe the OME shocks are goners. I have a set of new Al's UCA ready to install and will also replace that front wheel (or front differential) bearing that sings at the slightest left turn.

Will Blisteins fit the OME coils up front ?

If so, I will go with 4600s up-front and 5100s at the rear. I suppose that 5100s will be helpful while towing...

Dominik
Montreal.
4600s and 5100s are valved the same. Same internals. 5100 series is simply longer in the rear. Works perfectly for a ~2" lift.

5100 front shocks have adjustable spring perches that are capable of raising the front .75" - 1.5" - 2". If you want to stay current height youll need 4600's in the front, as 5100s will lift an additional .75" at a minimum. Since you are installing Als UCA you COULD probably use those @ .75" if you so choose. Anything more than that would likely result in steering rack and CV damage. 4600's work fine in the front with OME springs as you really don't gain any additional travel due to the IFS.

When you installed the OME kit did you trim your gas tank skid? The skid gets in the way of full droop on the drivers side.


Just an FYI I have 5100's front and 5125's rear (even longer than the 5100's 26" extended IIRC). My fronts are set @ 2" lift with stock springs (and rustys strut spacer for another .5"), I have Rustys Off Road rear springs and 2 additional coil isolators for around 2-3" lift IIRC.

Bilsteins take a bit to break in, seem a little stiff at first but they really ride great now.
 

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Common clunks in the Commander, at least from what I've seen posted.


Sway Bar bushings and end links.
Upper Control Arm damage.
Tie-Rods and Steering Rack mount bolts loosening, especially when lifted.
Rear Axle Control arm bushings wear out (upper and lower, NOT the panhard rod/track bar). The sound comes from the under or behind the rear seats.


Lifting the vehicle will stress those things more, perhaps NOT the Sway Bar, but the others definitely.
 

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Common clunks in the Commander, at least from what I've seen posted.


Sway Bar bushings and end links.
Upper Control Arm damage.
Tie-Rods and Steering Rack mount bolts loosening, especially when lifted.
Rear Axle Control arm bushings wear out (upper and lower, NOT the panhard rod/track bar). The sound comes from the under or behind the rear seats.


Lifting the vehicle will stress those things more, perhaps NOT the Sway Bar, but the others definitely.
Wanted to add to this that I had a pop. Turned out to be alignment bolts not proerply torqued down by the alignment shop. Could feel this one @ your feet as much as hear it. Doubt this is OP's issue, but couldn't hurt.
 

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OH, I should mention, the vehicle ride is a combination of spring rate and damping from the shock absorbers.


So just a softer shock might NOT produce the effect you're hoping for.


But, at the same time, many vehicle are often "Over Damped" a damp rate higher than the spring rate requires to provide a firm feel to the ride and better handling by almost creating virtual increased spring rate. So it might give the results you're looking for.


The OME shocks might have just blown out very quickly, cause they're poor quality, i.e. under damped, and that might be why you get adverse reactions to every bump in the road. So it might just be new shocks you need.


Now that I've thoroughly contradicted myself, my point is, I'd probably try the same thing myself, just be prepared that a new set of shocks might NOT fix your problem, it just might be the springs are NOT the right spring rate for the conditions you drive in.
 

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OH, I should mention, the vehicle ride is a combination of spring rate and damping from the shock absorbers.


So just a softer shock might NOT produce the effect you're hoping for.


But, at the same time, many vehicle are often "Over Damped" a damp rate higher than the spring rate requires to provide a firm feel to the ride and better handling by almost creating virtual increased spring rate. So it might give the results you're looking for.


The OME shocks might have just blown out very quickly, cause they're poor quality, i.e. under damped, and that might be why you get adverse reactions to every bump in the road. So it might just be new shocks you need.


Now that I've thoroughly contradicted myself, my point is, I'd probably try the same thing myself, just be prepared that a new set of shocks might NOT fix your problem, it just might be the springs are NOT the right spring rate for the conditions you drive in.
I'd be terribly surprised if the spring rate was too high or something, particularly if this is an issue that has really only showed up recently. Still a good point to bring up of course.

If it was a v6 with no accessories then I could see that as a possibility though.
 
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