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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I wanted to give this one more shot before I break down and have a shop do it.
I have tried multiple times to get my rough country 2 inch lift put on. I know it's not supposed to be that hard but I can't for the life of me get that bottom strut bolt out and when I tried taking out the upper control arm I was short about 1/2 an inch getting the strut back in with the spacer on.
So I'm looking for anyone in NY near Albany or Saratoga that has successfully put this lift on and is willing to help me out. I know it's kind of a long shot with how small the commander community is (even smaller if you count the people who mod theirs) but I figured I would try.

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Its been a few years since I did mine but I had the same issue. I was eventually able to get the bolt out using a long breaker bar and big hammer. The impact gun was useless because the bolt seizes inside the bushing and pretty much just bounces back each time the impact hits it. I had to preload the bolt with the breaker bar and smack the crap out of the other end to drive it through. It only moved a hair each time so it took a while. If you have access to an air hammer that might also help.
 

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I attempted this install myself and that's where I got hung up too. I eventually put it all back together and took it to a local mechanic to have the lift kit installed. He said he had to heat it up in order to be able to remove it. Good luck though! That one bolt can be a challenge.
 

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The problem with the lower strut fork bolt is that once water gets inside there it starts to rust forming a weld between the bolt and the inner metal sleeve of the bushing. Once this happens it can sometimes be impossible to get that bolt out leading to you having to torch it out and replacing both the bolt and bushing. My recommendation is never seize those bolts really good so you don't have the same issue in the future
 

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One suggestion, that does NOT help for those trying to get the bolt unseized, but to avoid the same thing in the future, liberally coat the whole bolt and the inside of the bushing with Anti-Seize compound.

In fact that is my general policy for any undercarriage bolts, since they all are prone to seize from corrosion from water/dirt/road salt, anytime I remove/reinstall them, I use either anti-seize or blue thread lock on them, depending on what seems more appropraite for the size or type of fastener.

Thread lock will coat and harden inside the threads and seal out water/dirt/salt and prevent the corrosion. Anti-Seize acts like a sacrificial anode to prevent the corrosion from happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I attempted this install myself and that's where I got hung up too. I eventually put it all back together and took it to a local mechanic to have the lift kit installed. He said he had to heat it up in order to be able to remove it. Good luck though! That one bolt can be a challenge.
If you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost you to have the shop do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the stories and tips guys. I think I'll just end up getting a shop to do the install. If I had a garage then I would spend the hours/days working at this bolt.

One suggestion, that does NOT help for those trying to get the bolt unseized, but to avoid the same thing in the future, liberally coat the whole bolt and the inside of the bushing with Anti-Seize compound.

In fact that is my general policy for any undercarriage bolts, since they all are prone to seize from corrosion from water/dirt/road salt, anytime I remove/reinstall them, I use either anti-seize or blue thread lock on them, depending on what seems more appropraite for the size or type of fastener.

Thread lock will coat and harden inside the threads and seal out water/dirt/salt and prevent the corrosion. Anti-Seize acts like a sacrificial anode to prevent the corrosion from happening.
Thanks for the Tip Mongo, I'll make sure I put something on those bolts once they come out.
 

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I live in Minnesota so i could not get the clevis bolt out either. I used a spring compressor on the strut to give enough clearance, remove upper control arm slip it out put on the spacer. You will need 2 people to get it back in most likely. Push down on the lower control arm get the strut in position. I had to use a foot to kick it in close than use a small pry bar put it through the whole in the engine bay and then into the whole on the strut pry into place it will pop in. Might take a couple tries but it is possible and it does slip under the fender with no issue scratching anything.
 

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Wish I could help you out bro, I have a RC 2inch kit sitting in my living room right now....just going to take it to the shop...The one in here in Raleigh is saying $440 for installation and alignment...I don't know if that's good or not, so I'm going to keep shopping around, If you do decide to take it to the shop let me know the pricing you find out.
 

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If you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost you to have the shop do it?
To be honest, I do not remember the exact price but I remember thinking that it wasn't bad at all for the amount of work. I remember it being no greater than $150 for installing new struts, shocks, and the lift kit. He then later installed the JBA UCAs too for a good price.

If anybody is in the Chicago area and is looking for this type of work I would definitely recommend him.
 

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I paid 150 for my install and 45 for an alignment so 190 for everything installed.
 

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There needs to be a bit of preload on the strut assembly in order to get the bolt out.
 

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There needs to be a bit of preload on the strut assembly in order to get the bolt out.
I haven't done the job, so what you say doesn't seem obvious to me?

How do you put a bit of preload on the strut? Do you put a jack under the control arm and jack it up a 1/2"? Or do I miss what you're getting at completely?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If that's what lekmedm means I have tried that. I'm sure that would help if the clevis bolt was not fused to that bushing but since it is the bolt just bounced back after every hit and laughs at me.
 

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You live in Albany that bolt isn't going to come out unless you torch it out. Might as well either order new control arms or new bolts and bushings.
 

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I haven't done the job, so what you say doesn't seem obvious to me?

How do you put a bit of preload on the strut? Do you put a jack under the control arm and jack it up a 1/2"? Or do I miss what you're getting at completely?
You read it correctly, Mongo. Of course, Adam may very well be right, too. But it seems that lots of guys drop the whole suspension and then try to fight the bolt while the stress of the suspension's weight is on it.

Penetrating oil might help, but it may very well come down to heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You live in Albany that bolt isn't going to come out unless you torch it out. Might as well either order new control arms or new bolts and bushings.
If I remember correctly I thought Chrysler didn't sell the bushing or the bolt by itself so it forced people to replace the whole control arm. Or was it that it's just a PITA to install the bushing yourself?
That reminds me, the last time I tried this install a buddy said if you remove the LCA you could get the spacers on but he was very reluctant to take it off. Has anyone heard of this or tried it?
 
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