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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi !, I need some help please !

Today a hose from the heating system broke and started leaking coolant. I kept driving to get to a safe place, and just when the Temp gauge got to red I turned off the engine.

I towed the Commander home and now it won’t start. I am getting a bunch of codes: P0117, P0004, P2A00, and U25E5

I hope I did not toast the engine, but I don’t think that is the case as I did not let it run on the red. I barely got the temp light on and I shut the engine off.

It cranks and kinda sputters but it is a no go

Please help !! I am troubleshooting as I write . THANKS

It is a 2006 Commander with the V8 Hemmi
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Please help ! :) :)

I have a suspicion that it has something to do with the alarm. The reason I say that is beacuse the alarm no longer goes off like it used to. For example when I reconnect the battery or just try to open the door without deactivating with the FOB

Before in all of those condition the alarm will sound.

Thoughts ?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yes, i have tried both keys. I also tried disconnecting the battery, both terminals for several minutes.

I drained the oil today and no signs of coolant. Spark plugs look OK and there is spark

I connected a 'fancy' code reader and got a bunch more codes and cleared all as well.

Any other thoughts ?

Thanks !
 

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Ok, what were the new codes?

Did you look up what the P0117, P0004, P2A00, and U25E5 codes mean?

Your first step is identify what could be causing those codes and fixing them, clearing the code when you haven't fixed the problem doesn't do anything to fix the problem.

Likely the code comes back right away.
 

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P0004=Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit High
P0117=Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low
P2A00=O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

http://www.hallsautoonline.com/obd_ii_code_definitions.htm

The U25E5, the "U" means it has something to do with the vehicle Networks to communicate between electronic modules.

Have you looked over the wire harness on the motor and see if you melted any wires during the overheating?
 

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P0117- ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW.
P0004 - Not on the list.
P2A00 - Not on the list.
P2A00 - Not on the list

How did you get these first codes? Seems the reader is giving the the wrong codes.

Did you write down the other codes before clearing them? Just because they are cleared does no mean the problem is repaired. It's just the computer letting you know what is not functioning properly. Most codes will not come back until you drive it again.

Seems like two separate issues...maybe.

Just to rule out overheat damage you should do a compression check.

On the right side of you dash above the temp gauge does a little red light turn on when you turn the key?

Just a long shot but try walking around your commander using the FOB to continually lock and unlock the doors.


 

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Discussion Starter #9
I looked for burnt cables or something out of place, but it all seems pretty normal... due to the vast amount of codes I doubt that a bunch of things all the sudden broke... i think something in the computer went out of wack

Does any of those codes tell you something obvious ?
 

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P0004 = Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit High
P0117 = Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low
P2A00 = O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
U25E5 = ?
B212D = ign run only input circuit open
B1206 = EIC Switch-1 Assembly Circuit Open
B1204 = Fuel Sender Circuit Short To Ground
U1415 = ECM Data missing at Airbag
U1414 = Implausible/missing ECU network configuration data - stored in Airbag module
U0114 = FCAN Malfunction (VTM-4 Control Unit-PCM)

All these codes are generic definitions from google searches, they may or may NOT be the same for a Jeep.

Since you've cleared these codes, have you gone back and scanned again and see which ones have come back since clearing the codes?

But what this is telling me is that you have some serious problems with the electronic engine management, the modules are NOT talking to each other the bus and/or sensors are damaged or their circuits are NOT working correctly.

The B212D is a big one, if the Ignition Run Only Power Input Circuit is Open, then everything that is suppose to run when only the ignition switch is turned to run, will NOT be powered.

Have you gotten an "IOD Fuse Out" message in the EVIC?

Have checked every fuse to make sure you do NOT have any blown fuses? These new type of blade fuses, you can't tell by looking at them while they are inserted in the box, you have to pull them out (using pliers will really speed up the process) and hold them up to the light to see if the metal bridge is burned out. There are more than one fuse boxes in your vehicle, one or two in the engine compartment and another under the dash, there is a little door just above the driver's left foot that you have to open and look up.

If you have no blown fuses, I would look for the fusible link and test it with a multi-meter, replace it if its blown.

BTW, the labels molded into the covers of the Fuse Boxes are incorrect, do NOT refer to the labels on the underside of the cover, use the O.M. or Quick User's Guide in the glove box. There are NO spare fuses held in the fuse box, the label on the underside of the cover is wrong, I and other's have been burned by this, pull a fuse from one spot to replace a burnt fuse in another (regardless if it's labeled spare) will result in another set of equipment NOT running because its lost power from its fuse being pulled.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Mongo , thanks for all the help bro

Just like you I am thinking the B212D is an important one

Have not checked all the fuses but will do so... just gotta find some time this week.

Since I have cleared the codes none have come back. Although the check engine light is still there and the low oil light stay on.... weird
 

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Just like you I am thinking the B212D is an important one

Have not checked all the fuses but will do so... just gotta find some time this week.
Check fuses and even the fusable link (NOT sure if the Commander has one or where it is).

When I replaced my evaporator, ripped out the entire dash, I blew a fuse, I got a ton of "U" codes for network communications because several of the electronic modules were NOT powered on and communicating.

So, I'm thinking that is a possibility for you, a blown fuse from the overheat that is killing power to some critical electronic modules to run the motor.
Since I have cleared the codes none have come back. Although the check engine light is still there and the low oil light stay on.... weird
Hmmm, usually if you have a problem that is NOT corrected, clearing codes just sees them come back in a short time, if NOT immediately. You haven't been able to get the engine started and running, so that might be why the PCM aren't seeing the conditions again and setting the codes.

The Check Engine Light (CEL) is usually on anytime the ignition is on and the engine is NOT running. Same for the oil pressure low light, because the motor, if it is NOT running is NOT making any oil pressure.

I don't know the spec for Commander's low oil pressure light/switch/sensor, but generally Chrysler's are about 10PSI. So oil pressure less than 10PSI the switch closes and completes the circuit for the low oil pressure light on the dash, if the oil pressure is above 10PSI, it opens the circuit and turns out the light on the dash.

Cranking the motor should produce enough oil pressure to turn out the light after a few seconds, if the motor does NOT crank, and it is NOT running, you should see the low oil pressure light.

If you've changed the oil and filter and did NOT fill the filter with oil, then you will NOT get any oil pressure until the filter fills with oil first. And just cranking the motor without running will NOT fill that filter with oil for a quite a while.
 

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I have a suspicion that it has something to do with the alarm. The reason I say that is beacuse the alarm no longer goes off like it used to. For example when I reconnect the battery or just try to open the door without deactivating with the FOB

Before in all of those condition the alarm will sound.

Thoughts ?
I thought I read somewhere that newer cars, have a feature for TOW, something about being tilted to a certain angle it will disable the engine, that it was an anti-theft feature, so your vehicle couldn't be stolen by towing it away (or at least if it was stolen by towing it away, it would NOT run until it was towed to the dealer to have them re-enable it, which of course they would learn the vehicle was reported stolen).

If this is a feature in the Commander it would be described in the Owner's Manual, so look it up.

You can call the dealer, unfortunately you're just as likely to get an unethical moron as you are to get good information. They may confirm for you if it is true or NOT, or they may just tell you to have it towed to them and they'll fix it, of course at thair exorbitant prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi, I had to put out troubleshooting it for a while, but today I was able to work on it some more.

I checked all the fuses and they were ok.

Did a compression test and I have 4 cylinders with 0 (zero) PSI !!!... burnet valves ??

I cranked the engine a lot without the spark plugs... I was looking for wierd noises and it sounded just fine.

Thoughts... ?

Thanks !
 
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