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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of days ago, I was getting ready to back out of driveway and the vehicle seemed like it didn't want to move. I gave it some more gas and noticed the rear passenger wheel was locked up. After finally removing everything, the bottom parking brake pad had come unattached from the shoe and when the wheel traveled around, became lodged in between the top pad.

So now i have the rotor off and i'm looking at this rusty mess. My questions are:

- Has anyone replaced the parking brake? If so, any tips or write-ups to help out? I have seen a similar write-up here.
- Has anyone just omitted the parking brake (yes, i know this sounds like a bad idea)? I cannot remember ever using it.
- If i decide to try to fix the passenger side, should I also replace the driver side?
- Any other opinions/insight?

I bought replacement shoes and the hardware kit (springs, clips, etc). Also the only way i was able to get the rotor off was to use PB Blaster and a sledge/wood to break the rotor free. I'm assuming i will also get the brake cleaner out and make sure everything gets a good spray/cleaning?

Thanks in advance,

John
 

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I'm not sure how its done, but you should be able to loosen the parking brake calipers/cable for removal of the rotors. I did this with a 96 GC and pulled the pads apart removing the rotor. The new parking pads went on much easier than anticipated. Get brake cleaner and clean the area free of dirt and dust.
 

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The Rear "Drum-in-Hat" e-brake has an adjuster star wheel in it, you pull off a rubber plug at the bottom inside of the rear brake and you can use a flat head screwdriver to back off the shoes to get the rotor off. Just like old fashion rear drum brakes.

BUT, unlike old fashion rear drum brakes, you don't use the e-brake while moving, so its NOT likely that you've worn a ridge in the drum and the shoes automatically self adjusted (there are no auto self-adjusters in the "drum-in-hat ebrake") to intefer with the ridge worn in the drum as you pull it off. BUT, you did say there was a lot of rust in the rear brakes, that might create the interference with the shoes while you try to pull it off.

You shoul be able to pull off the driver's side rotor and then have a reference that should be the mirror image of the side you're going to repair.

Once you replaced the pads, hardware and rotors, you need to adjust the rear "drum-in-hat" pads. Just like old fashioned rear drums, use the star wheel adjuster and a flat head screw driver to move the shoes closer to the drum, pull the e-brake handle up and down a couple of times to take any hysteresis out of the mechanism and fine tune the adjustment. BUT, unlike old fashioned drums, you do NOT adjust them so they ride constantly on the drum with slight pressure. Once the shoe rides on the drum, then you back off the shoes 3 notches on the star wheel so they are close but do NOT touch the drum at all.

At least, that is how you do it for most "drum-in-hat" e-brakes, if you have reference telling you to do it differently for the Commander, follow that.

DO NOT adjust the e-brake shoes to constantly ride on the drum, I did that on another Chrysler vehicle I owned. The "drum-in-hat" is too small and NOT designed to work that way, on the vehicle I did this, the ebrake produced a lot of dust and it wedge in the shoes and I would randomly have my ebrake engage itself traveling down the road. Once I backed off the shoes like the FSM stated, it never happened again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help guys. I will muster up enough will to get finished with this project and update this thread.
 

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Was the write up good in the first post?
Had the Jeep on the lift, pulled up the
e-brake and the left wheel spins. Right
wheel works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Was the write up good in the first post?
Had the Jeep on the lift, pulled up the
e-brake and the left wheel spins. Right
wheel works.
Everything with that write-up is pretty accurate. Here is what it was missing:

- On the back dust guard, there is a small rubber plug, about 1/2" X 1". That gives you access to the adjuster screw. When i realized how that worked (using a phillips screw driver to turn it, will open/close the brake shoes on the parking brake), i was able to free the hub that was frozen on... and i was able to adjust it after installing the rotor to make sure it was adjusted properly.

Overall, it was frustrating working with rusted/seized components, but after doing it once, the second time would not be as bad.

Protip: When reassembling, to get the tension spring into the holes, instead of using pliers... first hook the bottom of the spring and then put a screwdriver into the other hole that the spring needs to go into. hook the spring onto the screwdriver shaft and just pick up and the spring will go up the screwdriver and fall into the hole.
 

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Everything with that write-up is pretty accurate. Here is what it was missing:

- On the back dust guard, there is a small rubber plug, about 1/2" X 1". That gives you access to the adjuster screw. When i realized how that worked (using a phillips screw driver to turn it, will open/close the brake shoes on the parking brake), i was able to free the hub that was frozen on... and i was able to adjust it after installing the rotor to make sure it was adjusted properly.

Overall, it was frustrating working with rusted/seized components, but after doing it once, the second time would not be as bad.

Protip: When reassembling, to get the tension spring into the holes, instead of using pliers... first hook the bottom of the spring and then put a screwdriver into the other hole that the spring needs to go into. hook the spring onto the screwdriver shaft and just pick up and the spring will go up the screwdriver and fall into the hole.

Cool Thanks! Going to pull it apart in about 45 mins.
I just hope the pieces flying around in there didn't
damage the sensor or anything esle!
 

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Well, I pulled the wheel off, caliper, rotor/drum
with the help of a hammer. (yes I took off the o-ring)
A bunch of pieces of the shoes fell to the floor.
Got in there and it was missing the back spring
that holds the shoes together, and there was
nothing but metal on the "shoes" themselves.

I gutted everything, put it back together, and
am going to order new shoes and hardware kit.
(no e-brake for now)

The pads looked good! LOL Since this is just a
parking brake, I'm ordering the parts through
O'Reilly's. About $42 bucks....
 
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