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Discussion Starter #1
My hat is off to the great folks at the Peacock Road Tree Farm in Laingsburg Mi and the Michigan Posse.
My family's first campout in our PUP. We had a blast, but it didnt start out too well.

We started out about an hour late and then had to go back and get something....ok no biggy...
As we were traveling down the road, started looking like rain. Uh Oh, better cover the stuff on the roof.

Pulled over and got a big sheet of plastic out of the PUP, covered it. About 20 minutes, someone pulled up
beside me making hand gestures. Pull over.....PUP step is down. Hmm where's the keys? I'll look later.
Closed the latch, took off.

Drove 30 minutes pulled into the rest area. Where's those key's?

Just pulled out of the rest area, boom! Slide....Tire blows out. Pull off the road, just past a bridge and of
course, it starts pouring rain. By the time it started pouring, most of the change was done. I am glad I
had a spare, but wish I had put air in it. One of the things I took out to make room was of course, the
aircompressor. Well, I have 60 of the 90 required pressure so I motored a mile to the next exit and air up.

On to Toledo to drop in and see in laws. We are more than 2 hours late now and I need a new spare.
We get dinner, went and found a new spare, but the keys for the PUP door, nowhere to be found. I am
guessing I left them in the door when it went down. I got a drill and drilled out the the lock.

When the door was down, and I lost the keys, one of my shoes fell out as well. Now we left toledo
4 hours later than expected. I checked the GPS and it says we have 2 more hours to go. This does not
add up to the travel time on Google maps. We would'nt get there before 11:30. At this point, I
surrendered. Better to get a fresh start in the morning.

Saturday morning, we made the drive in without further incident. We had a blast.

























On the way home, we lost a cooler, 1 flipflop, soaked the carpet, but I found my lost tennis shoe on the road!!!
No keys.

We had a blast!
 

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I saw that movie !
 

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Hey I recognize that PUP!
 

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I am going on the first summer season trip this weekend! About 9 weeks ago I broke the 4th and 5th metatarsal bones in my right foot while chasing after my 4 year old son. This has put quite a damper on our plans. I am still in an "air" cast but the doctor has given the go ahead on the plans to camp with the "new" PUP this weekend. I will start a new thread on Monday and not hi-jack yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe we should have our "campsite" threads as opposed to our "garage"
threads for our camping gear.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Over the weekend, I decided to do the lift on the PuP.
Spring/Axle flip is the most common way to do it.

Jacked it up and set on stands



Pull out the axle





New U bolts and nuts



Looks funny from here...










This doesnt look quite right....

 

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Discussion Starter #9
More pics....
Did some research. The shackle links are for double eye spring,
I have the slipper type. I need to take the shackle links off, dont know
why they wont work, thet dont move and there isnt enough room for the
leaf to come out. All I found on shackle links, is they are for the double eye
nothing for my type of spring. Doesn't say i can use them, but I think i wont gamble on it.

Anyone do this before?









Now i need a mount for my gas can...





Hope it floats!!
 

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Quite an adventure.

I have heard of the Peacock tree farm. It's near me, but I've never been there. Did you camp there?

Also, what connection did the Michigan Posse have on your trip?
 

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Cico, I'm no expert on the trailer springs, but take a look at the front and rear shackles. I think they are different. When you flipped the axle, did that effectively put the formerly rear of the spring in the front and the front of the spring to the rear? I think the slip shackle is different from the eye shackle.

This may be your problem. If it is, try moving the drivers side to the passenger side while still upside down (for your lift). That should get the eye shackle and slip shackle matching the spring configuration.
 

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cico,

The rear spring slides on a (usually) nylon plate attached to the frame rail at the rear....hence, slipper type.
There should have been a single bolt through the frame ears below the spring.
This bolt restricts the spring from falling away from the chassis and, of course, makes the axle raise off the ground when jacking up the chassis for a tire replacement.

Nifty way to pick up a few inches of frame clearance......do you intend to go to a larger wheel as well?

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cico,

The rear spring slides on a (usually) nylon plate attached to the frame rail at the rear....hence, slipper type.
There should have been a single bolt through the frame ears below the spring.
This bolt restricts the spring from falling away from the chassis and, of course, makes the axle raise off the ground when jacking up the chassis for a tire replacement.

Nifty way to pick up a few inches of frame clearance......do you intend to go to a larger wheel as well?

Rob
yes, has 4.80 x 8 now. Going to 4.80 x 12

The original bolt in back holds the shackle links on and another bolt below that.
The spring catches on the lower bolt so it lifts when I raise the trailer.

Are you suggesting I dont have to remove the shackle links? It does give
me another inch and i dont see what the problem would be. It cant move
forward or back. That would be a wonderful thing!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cico,
I don't understand what the shackles are doing for this application or how they are in any way increasing the height of the trailer.Please try to explain again.
Rob
The shackles extend about 3 in from the original bolt that held the end in place.
The end of the spring is pressing agaonst the old bolt, which is about 1in
below the original mount.
 

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Ah......the drawing helped and is sort of what I visualized.

Although the shackle is giving more lift in its present configuration I think you are asking too much of the bolt that the spring is resting on.....over time the shackle will move or the bolt will get ground away.

I think a safer and longer lasting method would be to reset the spring as it was designed and, since the axle is now below the spring, make up spacer plates that move the axle further down from the spring.

This would require longer spring centering bolts that would go through the spacer and spring and provide a centering point for the axle, and, most likely, longer U bolts would be called for as well.

The idea here is to avoid re-engineering the spring mount and slide points, essentally making the modification transparent to the chassis and axle.

Your current arrangement is too dependent on the add on parts not wearing or shifting.
Too many variables.....too many potential fail points IMO.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Your current arrangement is too dependent on the add on parts not wearing or shifting.
Too many variables.....too many potential fail points IMO.Rob
Rob, the main reason I posted this here was for this type of input.
I could not find anything more than parts regarding this subject and I am
very appreciative of your input.

On the spacer plates between the axle and spring, a 1/4 piece of steel
or something else?

I had thought about replacing the springs with double eye springs, but I wondered if there is something
else I should do instead.

Thank you very much for your help.
 

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cico,

The current spring will be fine once it reset against the chassis as designed.
You can add a spacer block of just about any thickness (be reasonable now.....I don't mean 6" here...heh heh), but up to an inch additional wouldn't stress anything.
If you have a trailer shop or a leaf spring shop in the area, 1" spacer blocks are commercially available. You must provide the spring width and axle plate length.
The spacers have a recess for your current center bolt to fit in and a projection on the other side to center the axle.

Or, if you feel inventive, just make, say, eight 1/4" steel plates that are the same width of the spring, same length as the plate on the axle, with a center bolt hole that is the diameter of the center bolts threads (actually, slightly larger).
C' clamp the spring leaves together, remove the center bolt, replace with a 1" longer bolt through four of the spacers and spring and tighten the center bolt nut.
You now have a spring with a 1" spacer that is attached at all times.
Re-attach with 1" longer U bolts.

Of course, once you get the tires on with this arrangement you have a new set of hurdles.
The trailer jack stands and nose wheel jack will be far to short.
I'm thinking, between the axle flip, spacers, and larger tires you will now be 4 to 5 inches taller.......gonna look rather tough though.

Might have to get a different drawbar too or it'll be nose down when towing.

Keep the picks coming...... I LOVE this kind of modding.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well now, since you brought up wheels, it has a 4 lug hub. i can get up to 13"
wheel, but is that stressing the hub or wheels or anything else?

i am thinking i have to replace the axle and hubs.

i think tractor supply has the plates the right size,
There are only 2 leafs in the springs...

the jack on the front has plenty of travel, the back will need supporting.
The hitch is adjustable, i had to raise it to keep it level.
 

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cico,

The hubs will be fine with a 13" Do get the wheel/tire assemblys balanced though.
If there is any imbalance it'll shake the trailer to pieces.
This wasn't critical with your original wheels.....they are so small that any imbalance would have to be huge to have been noticeable.
The larger wheels won't stress the hubs or axle because you are not changing the weight of the trailer......because the wheels will be turning much slower by virtue of their diameter the wheel bearings will live a much less stressful life......also, the larger tires will run much cooler.

I see no downside to this arrangement.

Rob
 
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