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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This install guide will hopefully help others wanting to install the PIAA 525 without the wimpy PIAA provided switch. Remember this is not simple because the PIAA 525 provide 3 light sources in one housing.

1) LED Driving
2) Fog Light
3) Off Road Driving Light

This install shows the fog-lights and two new toggle switches installed in our Commander center stack.

I wanted to install the PIAA's and run them to toggles in existing center console spaces. Easier said then done.

FYI -- You need the PIAA 525 (obviously) and 2 SPDT (single pole double throw switches for this). You could also go with a SPDT and a SPST.

This illustration is for the 2 SPDT. This provides the ability to turn the LEDs on/off then power the second toggle and choose fog light or high off-road driving light.

Okay let's get started ---

1st mount fog lights and run wires to driver side of vehicle. Mount the relays (wires down). I drilled a pilot hole first then add rtv sealant (to prevent rust) and use stainless self tapping bolts (again, no rust).

Then run wires cleanly along driver side through the gasket in the firewall.

The fourth picture shows, you are able to run the relay power, under the lid in the engine bay fuse compartment, and finally add wrap so your wires aren't toast after one year.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Remove Center Console

Remove the center console so we can add the switch.

Remove the 16 torq's and pop the top off.
Remove the shifter ring
Remove the shifter cover
Pull the center console stack straight out.

They are all just push and pull, recommend a normal upholstery tool (made of plastic so you don't scratch).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When you have the center console out, it will look like this on the back.

Count the third sticker down from the top of the picture... there are 4 small metric bolts holding it down.

Loosen those up and there's a surprise.

They're not traditional switches, it's printed circuit board and buttons.

At this point you need to be dedicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Once separated, the buttons will all fall out. Then drill a 1/2" or whatever switch your using hole in the 2 blank buttons.

In addition, you will need room for the switch to fit flush.

Because remember, you still have to put all the buttons back in .....and get the printed circuit board to line up flush.

In these two pictures you can see you have to dremmel out quite a bit on the top and bottom (at least for my two toggles to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh yeah...and here's the really fun part... you need to be able to get your wires into the switch through the circuit board... which means you need to drill a tiny hole in the circuit board.

Note on the picture. I checked the front and back of the circuit board and only drilled where there was the name "Delphi".

Since, it all works and all my bottons, heated seats, etc buttons work ...this is an okay thing to do ... but very scary.

Be careful when drilling and start very small.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mount up all your original buttons and the switches. I had to bend the top and bottom contacts for the switches all the way up and down....and had to press the center contact into itself to get the backing plate, contact board, and wires to all fit.... but it does. Just take your time and be patient.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
In this picture, you can see I used the stock PIAA 525 wiring harness connected to a switch and three additional wires (which I labeled and created quick disconnects) just in case this ever needs to come apart again.

1R is the main power from the battery.
2 (green) is the white with red dots which powers the LEDs
3) is the power from the relay coming forward from the stock connector.

1,2,3 go into the first switch

And stock PIAA wires (red, white, green) go into the second housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Once complete, button it all up clean and tight. Get your zip ties to anchor all the extra wires together all the way back to the firewall. And put everything together.

This is what they look like on and what the center console looks like with the toggles.

1st switch -- on/off/on
push down = LEDs
center = off
push up = activate lights

2nd swtich -- on/off/on
push down = Fog lights
center = all off
push up = off road high beams
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Final testing.

My camera does allow a manual mode where I can set exposure, white balance, shutter, and speed.

For these I set everything standard and took white balance off 'auto' so you guys could see the affects without stopping down of an aperture.

Obviously

1st pic = LED
2nd pic = Fog Lights
3rd pic = High Lights
4th pic = LED with parking lights

Yes, the way this is wired is completely independent of the lights on the truck. So, if you're off setting up camp you don't have to have all your lights on to run with these.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All in all I am extremely happy with the way the install turned out, I didn't include the screwing the lights down to the bumper...because you guys know how to turn a wrench.

There are (3) 20 amp fuses in line (2) for the relays and (1) for the main power to the switches.

The hardest part was the getting the switches to fit into the housing for the other buttons. I did forget to mention, add RTV sealant to the gasket that you cut to feed the wires through the firewall (this way it stays waterproof).

Cheers! Hope this helped folks as I couldn't find anything on how to rewire the 525's to normal switches.

If you have any questions, just ask. :)
 
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