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Discussion Starter #1
This is the 4th time at dealership. Has been in shpp a week so far. It all started with a normal tire rotate, oil change, and alignment. They said my cv boot was torn on right axle. I verified it was. 2 weeks later they replaced the cv axle. Cheaper than replacing the boot. Drove it home heard a slight popping noise. Took it back the next day. Dealership said they couldn't hear anything. They said they retightened. The service writer and I drove it when I went to pick it up. No noise. I heard periodically a little popping. Saturday before last I hooked up a trailer started to drive away. Loud popping noise continuously coing from front. Took it to dealership that day. They replaced right cv axle under warranty. Stiil made popping noise. Took it back Monday. Since then they have replaced left cv axle and front drive shaft. Still making noise. Its still at dealership. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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This is the 4th time at dealership. Has been in shpp a week so far. It all started with a normal tire rotate, oil change, and alignment. They said my cv boot was torn on right axle. I verified it was. 2 weeks later they replaced the cv axle. Cheaper than replacing the boot. Drove it home heard a slight popping noise. Took it back the next day. Dealership said they couldn't hear anything. They said they retightened. The service writer and I drove it when I went to pick it up. No noise. I heard periodically a little popping. Saturday before last I hooked up a trailer started to drive away. Loud popping noise continuously coing from front. Took it to dealership that day. They replaced right cv axle under warranty. Stiil made popping noise. Took it back Monday. Since then they have replaced left cv axle and front drive shaft. Still making noise. Its still at dealership. Any help would be appreciated.
@tagrunt ; Get your upper front differential bushing checked;

If you haven't replaced it previously, there's a good chance it's time.

When they go bad you'll hear a lot of clanking & popping every time you hit a decent bump, sometimes even while turning if you make a sharp enough turn.
 

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I had all the bushings changed 2 mths ago
Well that's good to know; you can take that aspect out of the equation;

Have you heard anything back from the dealership?

I'm guessing that you haven't had any DTC's generated while all of this has been going on?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What is a DTC? Basically after last Friday when they replaced the left front cv axle and front drive shaft they have not worked on it. They are supposed to work on it today. The only good part is they gave me a free loaner to use until they can fix it. Hopefully I will here something today
 

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What is a DTC? Basically after last Friday when they replaced the left front cv axle and front drive shaft they have not worked on it. They are supposed to work on it today. The only good part is they gave me a free loaner to use until they can fix it. Hopefully I will here something today
I'm glad to hear they did at least that much for you.

DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Code. It would be generated and show in your EVIC - Electronic Vehicle Information Center; Like P0430 for example.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Still haven't looked at it. I will start my 3rd week with a loaner. Oh I firgot to tell y'all the loaner is a 2019 ram classic 1500 slt. Nice ride but I miss my Commander.
 

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Still haven't looked at it. I will start my 3rd week with a loaner. Oh I firgot to tell y'all the loaner is a 2019 ram classic 1500 slt. Nice ride but I miss my Commander.
Have you called them at all? 2 weeks without an update is quite a while.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have called or went there every day. If they hadn't took care of me in the past and took care of me now with a loaner I would probably be a bit more upset.
 

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Have you tried tightening the steering rack yolk? I had a knock when turning left or right and I tightened up the mesh and it's been gone since. This is something you could do yourself and probably only needs an 1/8-1/4 turn clockwise.

From another Jeep forum...

"There's a yoke adjustment on the steering rack. It's used to set the gear mesh during assembly and I can replicate my clunk noise with a pry bar pushing upwards on the driver side tie rod, indicating excessive clearance in the gears at this location. The adjustment is on the driver side of the rack pointing up/forward; you can see it if you look above the sway bar.... though I think 3.7L and 4.7L vehicles you need to remove the oil filter drain guard because that sits over it. I think that, primarily for us lifted guys, we wear our pinion gear down more due to the upward force from the angles associated with our lift kits.

You need an External Torx socket, size E20. (You can get one for $10 off amazon/sears/etc.) or a 17mm socket/wrench depending on model model year."
 

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Beware that the bolt size seems to vary. E20 wouldn't fit mine. But a 15mm 12point socket worked. It might be an e15 but not sure...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well I got my Commander today. It ended up being the right cv axle. They ordered a mopar cv axle. No more popping noise. It seemed that the after market axle was shorter. They didn't charge me for the left cv axle . So all I paid for wasvthe difference between a mopar and after market cv axle. This is the 2nd time I have ran into after market problems. I am glad to have my baby back.
 

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Well I got my Commander today. It ended up being the right cv axle. They ordered a mopar cv axle. No more popping noise. It seemed that the after market axle was shorter. They didn't charge me for the left cv axle . So all I paid for wasvthe difference between a mopar and after market cv axle. This is the 2nd time I have ran into after market problems. I am glad to have my baby back.
It's good to hear that you have her back & all is well;

The lesson learned here is something I've always lived by; Use Chrysler/MOPAR replacement parts whenever possible.

You might pay a little more up front, but, it will save you some headaches down the road, more often than not.
 
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