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My 2006 commander developed a strange problem....the only power window switches that will not work are the ones for the front windows on the driver's door control panal. Mirrow control stopped working too. all other window control switches in the vehicle work fine. The electric door locks also do not work on the drivers side. I replaced the entire switch box in the door and that did not solve the problem. Any help here??? I figured if it was fuses no windows would not work :headbang:

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I was trying to figure out if the windows and locks are on different fuse circuts...not sure Just seems funny that the switch consol in the drivers door only has one plug for the window control and the rear switches work but not the front two on the same plug...That is why I thought it was the switch box itself and replaced it. Figured maybe some water or something got down there and shorted it out along with the door lock switch and mirrow control. But no luck
 

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They might be on the same fuse but different relay's. Grab you multimeter and start taking some measurements you should be able to track the problem down. Make sure the harness is still plugged in that goes threw the door unlikely it came undone there a PITA to unplug but you never know. Since you lost power or communication with just that switch panel it's a bad relay or the line is bad. Tracing the line with your meter should be easy enough. I sent you a PM.
 

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Power Window Issue

I am new to this forum, I bought a used 2006 commander back in Novemeber. If I had known then, what I know now, there is absolutely no way in this world I would have bought it. The first issue I had was the water on the passenger side floorboard. I am a do it yourselfer, so I found this site and dug in. The second thing was the navrec system disc not reading. The lights behind the climate control and also the window switch issue. I have resolved all except the window issue. I have both door panels off and nearly all of the wiring is pulled on the front end. The complete harness system is actually on my didning room table so I can see if there are any cut wires. Still no answers... I will go at it again tomorrow and let people know what I find. The other issues I had, feel free to ask what I had to do. I will completely rip this commander apart to find the root cause of anything.
 

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I have a 2007 Commander and as of right now the only two doors that will unlock are the drivers door and the rear window. the other three door and the hatch will not unlock. The two that are working will lock/unlock from the driver door, passenger door and the remote. Any ideas????
 

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My '06 Commander had the same problem with the Driver's side door contols. The fault was in the door's wiring harness. The wires running through the dust boot into the car continuously flex with door operation and over time the wires break. I have experienced this problem on my '97 XJ as well. A new harness is ~ $70 if you don't want to tear the old one out and make some splices.
 

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My 2006 commander developed a strange problem....the only power window switches that will not work are the ones for the front windows on the driver's door control panal. Mirrow control stopped working too. all other window control switches in the vehicle work fine. The electric door locks also do not work on the drivers side. I replaced the entire switch box in the door and that did not solve the problem. Any help here??? I figured if it was fuses no windows would not work :headbang:

Jim
With high confidence - its the door wiring harness. You have a broken wire or perhaps wires inside the dust boot.
 

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The problem is the driver door wiring harnass. The wires, though stranded, are becoming brittle with age. As they break you start losing random functionality of the power features. My initial loss was the rear power windows. If you loosen the rubber boot that protects the wiring harnass between the driver door and the frame you will most likely find broken and/or severally cracked wires. The easiest way to repair is to replace the door wiring harnass part number 56048811AB costing about $65.00, or the cheapest way is to remove the door panel. Disconnect the wiring harnass as the door frame via two plug connectors. Feed it back into the door and out the speaker opening (after removing the speaker). This facilitates easy butt splices, or inline non-soldered splice with black tape. I found the solder creates a hard inflexible point that will eventually cause failure again. Obviously replacing the harnass is the best solution if you can afford it.
 

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The problem is the driver door wiring harnass. The wires, though stranded, are becoming brittle with age. As they break you start losing random functionality of the power features. My initial loss was the rear power windows. If you loosen the rubber boot that protects the wiring harnass between the driver door and the frame you will most likely find broken and/or severally cracked wires. The easiest way to repair is to replace the door wiring harnass part number 56048811AB costing about $65.00, or the cheapest way is to remove the door panel. Disconnect the wiring harnass as the door frame via two plug connectors. Feed it back into the door and out the speaker opening (after removing the speaker). This facilitates easy butt splices, or inline non-soldered splice with black tape. I found the solder creates a hard inflexible point that will eventually cause failure again. Obviously replacing the harnass is the best solution if you can afford it.
Well said. This is definitely the probably, based on the original post.
 

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I'm wondering if a cracked/broken wire my be the culprit on my 07 as well.

It was pouring down rain today and when I got into my Jeep some rain water got onto the armrest area where the switch control the drivers and passenger side front window. I just tried to open them.... and nothing.

The back windows open just fine via the drivers door armrest... just not the fronts. I'll have to see if I can open the passenger side window via the passenger side armrest.
 

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I ended up repairing my XK window switches today. It turned out that like many others, the wiring harness that runs from the door jam, into the door itself had cracked wires.

When I pulled the rubber weather boot back, I saw that someone had "butt spiced" two wires together, prior to my purchasing the Jeep. One of the wires had broke off at the butt connector. A third wire was about to snap so that had to be fixed too.

I ended up removing the butt connectors and spliced in about 2" of additional wiring of the same gauge. The butt connections had left the wiring so short that when the door was fully opened the squeezed connections were completely taught and ready to pull apart. I soldered in new wire and sealed them up real well with liquid electrical tape.

The hardest part was getting the rubber boot back into place around the plastic wire harness bulkhead on the door jam. The whole repair took about 40 min and didn't cost me a thing, but a little patience.

From here on out that would be the first thing I'd check, if something suddenly stops working again.
 

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I soldered in new wire and sealed them up real well with liquid electrical tape.
Try to avoid a solder connection - solder makes a rigid section of wire which does not flex and will break easier with movement (where the stranded and solder meet) . Best to twist the stranded wires together and wire nut or use a crimp connector.
 

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I agree about the soldering. Hopefully the electronics grade solder I used will hold up... but if it doesn't last, I'll just twist them and seal them up with liquid tape.
 

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Reviving this slightly older thread, but...

My rear passenger window will go down, but not up. I'm assuming the wires are broken in the door wiring harness and will be planning to check that this weekend.

My questions is this: the switch on the door itself (not the drivers door) is the only one that works, but only to move the window down. The window won't go up (unless I hook a battery to the motor, which works just fine). Does the wiring require a connection at the main control in the drivers door in order to work? It seems like the switch in the rear door should work independently, but that's likely a bad assumption.
 

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It couldn't be the switch itself?

In my case the driver's window switches are intermittent and when they don't work, cycling the switch and using a lighter touch often gets it to work. While I can't rule out the wire harness, in my case the symptoms point more toward the switches.

I can see if the switches are totally dead, and the seldom used mirror switches are dead also, it being more likely a broken wire harness.
 

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Reviving this slightly older thread, but...

My rear passenger window will go down, but not up. I'm assuming the wires are broken in the door wiring harness and will be planning to check that this weekend.

My questions is this: the switch on the door itself (not the drivers door) is the only one that works, but only to move the window down. The window won't go up (unless I hook a battery to the motor, which works just fine). Does the wiring require a connection at the main control in the drivers door in order to work? It seems like the switch in the rear door should work independently, but that's likely a bad assumption.
Note, the previous post had symptoms of the windows working perfectly, just the switches at the driver's door being totally dead and NOT intermittent.

The wires to the window motor are the same, the switch just reverses the current direction to make it go the opposite direction. So if you had a broken wire to the motor it would neither go up or down, NOT just one direction.

I can't rule out a broken wire somewhere, but I think it is much more likely your problem is the switches themselves or the window regulator, either the motor or the tracks/cables in the regulator. It is common for a motor that is going out, or damaged worn tracks/cables in the regulator resulting in windows that will only go in one direction, either the motor failing the opposite direction or the track/cables jamming in the opposite direction.

The switches have to conduct a lot of current, they are hard to test, they can show continuity when switched, but NOT conduct enough current to move the window.
 

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Nope. Not the switches. I've swapped passenger and drivers side and also bought a new front driver side master switch.

For the mirrors, on my old Saab the switches would oxidize over time and lose connection since they are rarely used. Switching them back and forth for a bit would eventually get them to work.
 
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