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Discussion Starter #1
So it begins. I did a Rough Country lift on my 2006 several years ago and decided to look at the Heavy Metal setup this time.

Step 1 - Before:
 

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So it begins. I did a Rough Country lift on my 2006 several years ago and decided to look at the Heavy Metal setup this time.

Step 1 - Before:
I'm curious to see if you run into the same issue that Jeremy did with his.

I don't know very much at all about the Heavy Metal lift, and really haven't heard of it, up until now.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
They make all kinds of noise about how their metal is specially coated, super stupendous, etc.

I mostly got it because it was a few bucks cheaper and thought it would be tough to screw up on manufacturing a lift kit. We'll see.

From my pictures, the difference between the front and back is about 2 inches. The height difference of the spacers is only .75 inches. Jeremy said it's not a 1:1 ratio of lift but it will be interesting to see how much different it is when installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, hit the first snag and I'm not happy.

When I go to screw the nuts on the spacer bolts, the stinking things are really tough to turn and the bolts start backing out on 7 out of 8 of them.

2 things: first, the nuts should go on a lot easier than they do. No threads are getting damaged but they are hard to turn. Also, they should weld or otherwise lock in the bolts to the spacers.
 

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I had the same issue. There really should be a spot weld or something. Whoever engineered the design didn't think this part through. However I noticed that your allen bolt heads are different than mine. Apparently consistency is a problem with Heavy Metal... I was able to use a set of needle nose vise-grips on the bolt heads and tighten from the top. Solved my problem, but it shouldn't be a problem to begin with...
 

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Well, hit the first snag and I'm not happy.

When I go to screw the nuts on the spacer bolts, the stinking things are really tough to turn and the bolts start backing out on 7 out of 8 of them.

2 things: first, the nuts should go on a lot easier than they do. No threads are getting damaged but they are hard to turn. Also, they should weld or otherwise lock in the bolts to the spacers.
I'm starting to think there is a reason I haven't heard of this Heavy Metal spacer lift before.

Were you able to finish the install Bobula?

Or did you run into more problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just got nuts and HD thread lock from Home Depot. The nuts go on by finger (like they should) and I got some lock washers too.

I called Heavy Metal and let them know the problem. They're going to compensate me for the time and extra cost.

Not done. I really only intended to get started last night and finish up today. The real bitch is getting the strut back in place. Not sure I have a great spring compressor.

Feel free to take a look

https://goo.gl/photos/M2diEzZf6DHg6uSH8
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Discussion Starter #9
I Know Jeremy is hungry for info.

Passenger side is done and looking at a measurement still on jack stands, hub to fender is exactly 2" difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK.

First things first - I'm getting too old for this crap!

Next - some pics. It's pretty level now plus when I get the camber out with the alignment, it will go down probably a half inch. Wheels and tires will be here Tuesday.
 

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Ha, well I am glad to see yours went well. Looks good!

And I assume you mean front spacers in your post above. Yeah, I looked at the RC instructions and I followed them step by step like that. The only thing I can think at this point is that whoever owned this XK prior to me must have flip flopped the right and left front shocks. This is the first time I have removed them and I only did it one side at a time.

I just ordered new front shock assemblies because I have no idea if they have ever been replaced (132k miles). Looks like next week I'll be checking back in with an update after I get them installed with the spacers... AGAIN!
 

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OK.

First things first - I'm getting too old for this crap!

Next - some pics. It's pretty level now plus when I get the camber out with the alignment, it will go down probably a half inch. Wheels and tires will be here Tuesday.
That looks good and looks like it's sitting properly, as it should be.

Nice work Bobula.

I don't know what the deal is with yours Jeremy - something isn't adding up.
 

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Are the first pictures stock or with the RC lift?
Did you change tire size with the heavy metal lift, what size is pictured?
I'm slowly saving for a lift, shocks, basically whole front end since @ 132k all stock, and now have the differential clunk to replace, (most likely the RC since it's a daily driver and we have 4 & 6 yr old girls).

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 

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Are the first pictures stock or with the RC lift?
Did you change tire size with the heavy metal lift, what size is pictured?
I'm slowly saving for a lift, shocks, basically whole front end since @ 132k all stock, and now have the differential clunk to replace, (most likely the RC since it's a daily driver and we have 4 & 6 yr old girls).

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
The differential clunk is most likely the front upper differential bushing.

A common point of wear on Commanders and Grand Cherokees alike.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Who did you talk to over there? I've been working with Anthony on this.
Sorry. Didn't see this. Matt Calhoon

Are the first pictures stock or with the RC lift?
Did you change tire size with the heavy metal lift, what size is pictured?
I'm slowly saving for a lift, shocks, basically whole front end since @ 132k all stock, and now have the differential clunk to replace, (most likely the RC since it's a daily driver and we have 4 & 6 yr old girls).
First pics are completely stock. Lifted pic (post 12) is with stock tires and wheels and 1.5" wheel spacers. Rubicon wheels and tires will be here tomorrow.
 
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