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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 2008 Limited 4 X 4. On the three test drives everything was normal. First day of ownership I drove about 150 miles, everything was normal. Then the car sat for 6 days. When I backed out of the garage and drove down the driveway, it felt like a manual shift 4-wheel drive that is in 4-wheel drive on dry pavement. I entered a paved road and the feeling stayed the same plus it was pulling to the right as if it had a low tire. All tires were normal. I drove it a block or so and it felt the same so I parked it. Later that night my son-in-law came and drove it and everything was normal. Any explanation? Did setting for 6 days cause it? There was no dash indicator showing it was in 4-wheel drive. Anyone else ever experience this? Any answers will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Was there any kind of noise associated with this behavior ?
 

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Your Jeep is always in 4wd, but should drive on dry pavement fine. We need more info.
 

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No, there was no noise associated with this. I realize that it is full time 4-wheel drive but the way I understand it the only time power is put to a wheel is is there is slipping detected. I thought that the front wheels were in effect "free-wheeling" until traction was lost. If not I would appreciate a better explanation. And thanks for the relies.
 

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No, there was no noise associated with this. I realize that it is full time 4-wheel drive but the way I understand it the only time power is put to a wheel is is there is slipping detected. I thought that the front wheels were in effect "free-wheeling" until traction was lost. If not I would appreciate a better explanation. And thanks for the relies.
Which 4wd system do you have ?
 

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I thought that the front wheels were in effect "free-wheeling" until traction was lost. If not I would appreciate a better explanation. And thanks for the relies.
QDII is full-time 4WD. There is always power to all 4 wheels. 48% of the engine torque goes to the front wheels. Go here to see how it works---> http://www.jeep.ca/en/key_features.php?np=4x4Basics&cat=How%204x4%20Systems%20Work Scroll down the page and click on Quadra-Drive II to watch a video explaining how it works.
 

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I have an Overland with QDII

Mine has sat for several days in the past...never any drivetrain issues. I have had some electrical anomolies after a long sit, but they all have cleared...for me.

Any chance you may have accidently hit the shift lever while it was in "D"...maybe knocked it twice left to not allow it higher than 4th...or even 3rd gear?

For future reference, you may sometimes see the QDII work when driving over RR tracks. You'll see the traction light flash..and if you're 'on the gas', you'll feel the engine speed reduce for a second....all normal behavior for the QDII.

Try to really put the hammer down when it's raining or icey...you'll see and feel it. Pretty cool.
 

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I have a couple of thoughts since a locked clutch-pack doesn't seem to fit

1) could it be power steering fluid so when you first try to turn, it is harder to turn the wheel as opposed to the feeling of "pushing" the tires with a locked axle?

2) Have you checked brakes/calipers to see if they are grabbing a disc?

I have accidentaly pushed my old Grand Cherokee in 4x4 Part time and it is a very distinct feeling.
 

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I've had a similar experience with QTII and the Diablo iTune1000 programmer.

The Diablo offers a setting to completely turnoff traction control which is recommended only for dragstrip use and not everyday driving.

However, there seems to be a glitch in the programming for the commander where it leaves the center diff (xcase) locked. At least, that is my best diagnoses.

The result is that you basically can't turn the steering wheel and can only move in a straight line. I've tried to simply back out of a parking space and it won't allow you to turn enough to make it happen.

Luckily, in my case I can just disable the "feature" (turn traction control back on) and all is fine.

Mind you, I have no issue with shutting traction control off from the dash, but this method is suppose to be more thorough.
 

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No, there was no noise associated with this. I realize that it is full time 4-wheel drive but the way I understand it the only time power is put to a wheel is is there is slipping detected. I thought that the front wheels were in effect "free-wheeling" until traction was lost. If not I would appreciate a better explanation. And thanks for the relies.
It does basically "free-wheel" in the sense that the front center and rear diffs should remain open unless a slip occurs. If one of your diffs is locking turning more than the slightest bit becomes a challenge.

One thing that might be a good idea is to have the fluids changed in the front and rear diff and xcase. Perhaps the current fluid is dirty, contaminated with water, or was replaced with the wrong type. All of these components require the recommended fluid in the owners manual for the clutch packs to work properly.
 

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It does basically "free-wheel" in the sense that the front center and rear diffs should remain open unless a slip occurs. If one of your diffs is locking turning more than the slightest bit becomes a challenge.
Nope. No "free-wheeling". Free-wheeling would be like a rear wheel drive 2WD vehicle where the front wheels do not get any power at all from the engine. With the QDII the front axle is always receiving 48% of the engine torque.
 

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Nope. No "free-wheeling". Free-wheeling would be like a rear wheel drive 2WD vehicle where the front wheels do not get any power at all from the engine. With the QDII the front axle is always receiving 48% of the engine torque.
I knew someone would comment on that.

I don't mean free-wheeling in the sense that the front axle has no power.

I mean it in the sense that the transfer case and center differential within is not locked and completely open as long as no slippage is detected just like the front and rear diffs.

Because of this, and possibly the fact that the torque split is slightly biased toward the rear, the Commander behaves essentially like a rear wheel drive vehicle as long as no slippage occurs.

Contrast this to many other AWD vehicles that behave like FWD until a slip occurs as the front axle on many midsize SUVs is the primary drive axle.

Also, contrast this to many pick-ups that have part-time 4WD that are RWD until envoked and 50/50 front/rear torque once envoked with open center diff in 4hi and locked center diff in 4lo....... In 4HI these types of vehicles feel like your being pulled from the front on dry pavement and it affects the steering slightly. Were-as in 4LO they become un-steerable on dry pavement.
 

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Because of this, and possibly the fact that the torque split is slightly biased toward the rear, the Commander behaves essentially like a rear wheel drive vehicle as long as no slippage occurs.
It's actually the opposite, just like how an open differential works. If all tires have traction, all tires get torque- none are free wheeling. If you lose traction to the rear, it would then act like a 2wd car if the traction control didn't kick in; just like one-wheel-peel from the rear of an open diff. In other words, there's a drastic difference between "torque bias" and "free wheeling".
 

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Could it be the diffs are missing the limited slip additive?
 

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It's actually the opposite, just like how an open differential works. If all tires have traction, all tires get torque- none are free wheeling. If you lose traction to the rear, it would then act like a 2wd car if the traction control didn't kick in; just like one-wheel-peel from the rear of an open diff. In other words, there's a drastic difference between "torque bias" and "free wheeling".
Well, it's looks like I'm being called out for improper use of the term "free wheeling" ....... I can handle that.

It looks like we are on the same page. Although it's AWD, which reduces your chances of slipping, if any one wheel does slip you would be dead in the water if it wasn't for electronic control of clutch packs front center and rear (and the BTCS).

So on topic of the thread, if anyone of these clutch packs misbehaves (or BTCS) the issue the OP expressed could be observed. Which means, it's likely either a fluid issue or a electronics issue. So, flush all fluids, and reset the electronics and take it from there..........
 
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