Anti-Seize has fine metals in it, heavy metals, that act as sacrificial anodes to prevent the corrosion that seize the threads, so it conducts heat and electricity well. True, probably NOT as well as steel to aluminum, but well none the less, I have yet to see anyone report a problem from anti-seize
I have witnessed galling of the threads when removing spark plugs, perhaps they were NOT plated plugs.
People often use way to much anti-seize, totally coat all the threads, have it squish out all over. Honestly, and especially if you have a plated plugs, you need less than a tiny dab, just a barely any on the beginning of the threads, that will spread as you run the plug down into the head.
Personally, I follow the instructions on the box for the spark plug, finger tight then use the wrench/breaker bar to turn a certain amount of turn, usually a half turn (180°) for gasket plugs and a 1/16th a turn (20°) for taper plugs. And experienced guys can do plugs without a torque wrench, you can feel the torque steadily increasing as the wrench turns, then you'll hit a point where the wrench stops turning and the torque needed to turn it goes up at a much greater rate, that is where you stop, you want to put some more torque on the threads but NOT turn the wrench much, i.e. the plug is bottomed out and you're just putting pressure on the threads, at that point you just need a few degrees of turn, more, you're going to strip out the threads, just enough to be a firm pull on the wrench handle and NOT move more a few degrees.