Jeep Commander Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It's time for my transfer case to have its oil changed. I myself have never done it. But I'm more then capable at doing it. I'm getting conflicting answers about the fluid. Can I use non mopar Atf4 fluid or can I go to Napa and buy something else?.

While I'm at it my rear diff is due as well. Where is my fill plug. There is a rubber bung on the right middle of the cover but I can seem to find and actual filler plug?

What else should I look for. It's an 07 4.7L with 86,000 miles.

Cheers guys and thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I'm heading to the high desert for thanksgiving and wanted to make sure my fluids were fresh. looks like I'll need a transfer hand pump for both front diff and transfer. I have all tools I need. But does anyone have torque specs for and bolts? Primarily diff cover bolts. I can imagine they need to be torqued.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
Which Transfer Case do you have?
Quadra-Trac I has the NV140.
Quadra-Trac II and Quadra-Drive II have the NV245.

The NV245 is capable of shifting into 4Low, the NV140 is single speed and can NOT.

If the bottle has "ATF+4" as the label, that means its licensed by Mopar and meets or exceeds all the Mopar ATF+4 specs, i.e. its the same thing that you buy from the Dealer. ATF+4 is synthetic, with an advanced additives package, it is superior to most ATF's you can buy in the store, only a couple of exotic synthetic oil brands offer something better.

The NV140 requires ATF+4, if you're going to substitute another ATF I would use a higher quality synthetic ATF than the recommended ATF+4 (which is also synthetic). I would NOT use any old ATF, like Dexron II, that is inferior to the recommended ATF+4. I used AMSOIL signature synthetic multi-vehicle ATF.

The NV245, some originally came with ATF+4 as the factory fill, but a TSB later changed it to Mopar NV245/247 Transfer Case Fluid. You have to get it at the Dealer. Its Mobil 242 Fluid repackaged, which is a synthetic tractor fluid. Its hard to find in anything less than 5 gallon pails. AMSOIL's makes an equivalent Tractor Fluid that you can you use.

What the FSM says.
FRONT AXLE
200MM - Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-140
REAR AXLE
213MM - Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-140
NOTE: ELSD equipped axles require 118 ml (4 ounces) of Limited Slip Additive be added to the lubricant.

TRANSFER CASE
Recommended lubricant for the NV140 transfer case is Mopar ATF+4, Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Recommended lubricant for the NV245 transfer case is Mopar NV245/247 Transfer Case Fluid.
You don't have to buy these from the Dealer, except maybe the Mopar NV245/247 Transfer Case Fluid. Any good quality "SYNTHETIC" Gear Oil 75W-140 will be fine.

If you have Quadra-Drive II, you have the ELSD's and require the 4oz of Mopar Friction Modifier added to the axle fluid. You can find Friction Modifier at NAPA and other auto stores, it "should" work the same, but we don't know if its the exact same as the Mopar Fluid, most don't take the chance and just buy the Mopar Friction Modifier from the Dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
Quantities

TRANSFER CASE
NV140 0.65L (1.4 pts.)
NV245 1.8L (3.8 pts.)
FRONT AXLE ± 0.3 L (2 oz.)
C200F 1.7 L (57.5 oz.)
C200FE 1.7 L (57.5 oz.)*
REAR AXLE ± 0.3 L (2 oz.)
C213R 2.07 L (70 oz.)
C213RE 2.24L (75.5 oz.)*
*ELSD, add 118 ml (4 oz.) of Friction Modifier.

The "E" after the name of the axle means its an ELSD axle, that come with the Quadra-Drive II.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
Follow the Permatex instructions about sealing the cover again. You have 5 minutes to get it together once applying a bead of permatex, then tighten bolts finger tight and give it an hour to cure before torquing the bolts down. There is a Gear Oil specific Permatex RTV now, that I use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
After much Research
most of it on this site

Lucasoil Universal Hydraulic (Tractor) Fluid
is the same thing as the Mopar 245/247 Transfer Case Fluid
& also same as the Amsoil

I bought it at AutoZone in a gallon Jug

Use the Search for this site and look up Hydraulic fluid
you will find other members who have found the same thing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the replys. Not sure how I can tell what I have under the jeep. My rear end has 10 bolts and I can shift into 4low. I don't mind going to the dealer for fluid as I have one just down the road a few miles. But I also have Napa,autozone and Orileys within a mile as well.


I tried to download the PDF file for the Manuel but at the moment I only have my iPad until I can get my computer going. Do the transfer case plugs have torque specs?

Cheers Beemer9! Was that 30ft pounds or inch pounds for the cover bolts on the rear?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
Thanks for all the replys. Not sure how I can tell what I have under the jeep. My rear end has 10 bolts and I can shift into 4low. I don't mind going to the dealer for fluid as I have one just down the road a few miles. But I also have Napa,autozone and Orileys within a mile as well.


I tried to download the PDF file for the Manuel but at the moment I only have my iPad until I can get my computer going. Do the transfer case plugs have torque specs?

Cheers Beemer9! Was that 30ft pounds or inch pounds for the cover bolts on the rear?
Quadra-Track II, has the NV245 XFR Case that can go into 4LOW, but it has open differentials. The rear open differential will have 10 bolts on the cover (I'm NOT 100% sure, someone correct me if I'm wrong).

The ELSD's of the Quadra-Drive II are larger and require a larger carrier, so the rear axle of that system has 12 bolts on the cover (Again, NOT 100% sure, someone correct me if I'm wrong).

So that means you need the Mopar NV245/247 Transfer Case Fluid or Mobil 242 Synthetic Tractor/Hydraulic Fluid or its many equivalents for your XFR Case. 2 Qts of it.

You do NOT need any friction modifier for your axles, just fill them with Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-140. A gallon of it for both front and rear.

Personally, I use AMSOIL for these, don't think you'll find that at NAPA/AutoZone/O'Reilly's or the Dealer. You likely could find Mobil1 and Lucas products there that have equivalents.

I also use Permatex Hi-Temp Thread Sealant on the plugs and Permatex Gear Oil RTV Silicone on the rear cover. A wire brush or scotch brite pad is excellent at removing the old silicone sealant, stuff a cloth over the diff and into the voids in the carrier as you clean the silicone off the flange of the carrier (that the cover mates too), otherwise you end up having to clean a ton of little silicone flakes out of the diff and carrier that were flying around as you cleaned it off the flange.

BTW, the rear cover, the fluid level is suppose to come within 1" of the fill hole, NOT up to and weeping out of the fill hole. The front Diff and XFR case, yes fill till it weeps out of the fill hole. Personally, I have filled the rear to the point it was weeping out of the fill hole and never suffered any problems, but ideally you'd want to fill it within 1/2"-1/4" below the fill hole opening.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
...What else should I look for. It's an 07 4.7L with 86,000 miles...
Well, the Anti-Freeze is suppose to be drained/flushed/refilled every 5yr/100k miles, you're past the 5yr mark. If it hasn't been done, you're due. Zerex G-05 is the aftermarket equivalent of Chrysler's HOAT anti-freeze. Its died the Ford "Amber" color, cause Ford/Chrysler/Mercedes used the same anti-freeze at that time.

Transmission Fluid? Check your O.M., that is difficult one based off usage and conditions, just keep in mind, the proper way to change the fluid/filter will only replace half or less than half the fluid in the trans. Thus its important to do a fluid filter change at regular intervals and NOT wait until the fluid is totally degraded; cause you'll only change half of it, and depend on a 50/50 mix of new/old fluid to protect and operate your trans.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Quadra-Track II, has the NV245 XFR Case that can go into 4LOW, but it has open differentials. The rear open differential will have 10 bolts on the cover (I'm NOT 100% sure, someone correct me if I'm wrong).

The ELSD's of the Quadra-Drive II are larger and require a larger carrier, so the rear axle of that system has 12 bolts on the cover (Again, NOT 100% sure, someone correct me if I'm wrong).

So that means you need the Mopar NV245/247 Transfer Case Fluid or Mobil 242 Synthetic Tractor/Hydraulic Fluid or its many equivalents for your XFR Case. 2 Qts of it.

You do NOT need any friction modifier for your axles, just fill them with Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-140. A gallon of it for both front and rear.

Personally, I use AMSOIL for these, don't think you'll find that at NAPA/AutoZone/O'Reilly's or the Dealer. You likely could find Mobil1 and Lucas products there that have equivalents.

I also use Permatex Hi-Temp Thread Sealant on the plugs and Permatex Gear Oil RTV Silicone on the rear cover. A wire brush or scotch brite pad is excellent at removing the old silicone sealant, stuff a cloth over the diff and into the voids in the carrier as you clean the silicone off the flange of the carrier (that the cover mates too), otherwise you end up having to clean a ton of little silicone flakes out of the diff and carrier that were flying around as you cleaned it off the flange.

BTW, the rear cover, the fluid level is suppose to come within 1" of the fill hole, NOT up to and weeping out of the fill hole. The front Diff and XFR case, yes fill till it weeps out of the fill hole. Personally, I have filled the rear to the point it was weeping out of the fill hole and never suffered any problems, but ideally you'd want to fill it within 1/2"-1/4" below the fill hole opening.
Well, the Anti-Freeze is suppose to be drained/flushed/refilled every 5yr/100k miles, you're past the 5yr mark. If it hasn't been done, you're due. Zerex G-05 is the aftermarket equivalent of Chrysler's HOAT anti-freeze. Its died the Ford "Amber" color, cause Ford/Chrysler/Mercedes used the same anti-freeze at that time.

Transmission Fluid? Check your O.M., that is difficult one based off usage and conditions, just keep in mind, the proper way to change the fluid/filter will only replace half or less than half the fluid in the trans. Thus its important to do a fluid filter change at regular intervals and NOT wait until the fluid is totally degraded; cause you'll only change half of it, and depend on a 50/50 mix of new/old fluid to protect and operate your trans.

Thanks bud. This is exactly the information put frankly that I needed. I truly appreciate it all. Headed to the auto parts stores here in a bit to get started. Still need to rotate and balance my tires as well. Looks like there is plenty of snow up in the mountains so I really want to go over the jeep and make sure everything is either fresh or good to go.

Thank you again. I'll check back in once I pick up some supply's and get going on some of this.


The radiator is good and was flushed at 50,000 miles so 36,000 miles ago but I do check the levels regularly. The tranny was checked not too long ago and I'm pretty sure it's ready for an oil change and f Later change as well. Just don't have time this weekend for that. Not sure if I feel up to it or if I should take it to someone to do it for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
okay so it looks like I'm picking up 2 gallons gear oil. A gallon an axle. And 2qts. Of transfer case oil. I need to pick up a pump as well so I can fill front axle and transfer case correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
okay so it looks like I'm picking up 2 gallons gear oil. A gallon an axle. And 2qts. Of transfer case oil. I need to pick up a pump as well so I can fill front axle and transfer case correct?
No, you only need 1 gallon of gear oil.
Front diff is a little less than 2 qts, the rear diff is a little more than 2 qts. Add the capacities together, it comes to 0.5oz less than a whole gallon. Most bottle will have an extra once or two, I have never needed more than 4qts (i.e. a gallon) to fill both front and rear axles.

Yes, the XFR case is just a little less than 2qts.

Remember Synthetic 75W-140 Gear Oil
Remember Mopar 245/247 Transfer Case Fluid or Mobil 242 Hydraulic/Tractor Oil equivalent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
The trans drop the pan and change the filters and refill should only take an hour or two, but dropping the pan can be messy. So, understand if you would rather leave it for another weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Alright. So after 3 different stores I wasn't able to find transfer case oil. Not even the tractor oil. I got fed up and headed to the dealership to just bight the bullet and buy the mopar oil. I'm not sure if I got a good deal or if it's this cheap everywhere but I only paid $13 a quart. So I wasn't too butt hurt. And I picked up some high temp thread sealant and a pump. So all in all I'm happy. I only paid $40 and next time it will be less now that I have everything. The cheapest gear oil I could find was valvoline and it was $13 a quart as well. I'm going to look online and see if I can find it cheaper and in gallons. All the stores only carried it in quarts. ???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
No, you only need 1 gallon of gear oil.
Front diff is a little less than 2 qts, the rear diff is a little more than 2 qts. Add the capacities together, it comes to 0.5oz less than a whole gallon. Most bottle will have an extra once or two, I have never needed more than 4qts (i.e. a gallon) to fill both front and rear axles.

Yes, the XFR case is just a little less than 2qts.

Remember Synthetic 75W-140 Gear Oil
Remember Mopar 245/247 Transfer Case Fluid or Mobil 242 Hydraulic/Tractor Oil equivalent.
Cheers. You have been very helpful. You really have thank you. I almost bought a couple gallons!!!!

The place I take my jeep too charges around $65 an axle so I'm very pleased with the DIY price. I know this isn't rocket science but there is so much to learn about this jeep. I want this jeep to run and last and I know the only way I can afford to do it is if I do most of the preventative work myself. I do all my own motorcycle work and can do electrical work in my cars but this is fairly new to me. I have never really gone this deep.



Should I be using any anti seize on any of these bolts and drain plugs or will my high temp thread sealant be good?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Alright. So after 3 different stores I wasn't able to find transfer case oil. Not even the tractor oil. I got fed up and headed to the dealership to just bight the bullet and buy the mopar oil. I'm not sure if I got a good deal or if it's this cheap everywhere but I only paid $13 a quart. So I wasn't too butt hurt. And I picked up some high temp thread sealant and a pump. So all in all I'm happy. I only paid $40 and next time it will be less now that I have everything. The cheapest gear oil I could find was valvoline and it was $13 a quart as well. I'm going to look online and see if I can find it cheaper and in gallons. All the stores only carried it in quarts. ???
http://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/hydraulic-fluid/lucas-oil-128-oz-universal-hydraulic-fluid/977490_0_0/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #20


That's a ton cheaper for sure. And that will do the same as the mopar will? No one had that in stock when I was going around. I have an autozone nearby that I didn't even think of. Guess I'll eat this one and make sure to grab a bottle next time and call it good.

Thanks for the link. I now feel like I should just return the oil to the dealer and go to autozone and see if it's in stock.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top