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Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if anyone has come up with a way to lesson the angle on the tie rods ends with the RC Lift. I was told by my mechanic that the R&P is clunking. After the last R&P problem that the rebuild company caused. My free R&P is going again. Not even 10,000 on last R&P
 

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Are you using the MS-10838 Power Steering/Hydrualic fluid? OR, did the mechanic fill up the system with any old PS fluid after replacing the rack?

The MS-9602 spec (which is just ATF+4, but keep in mind that exceeds a lot of PS fluids) is NOT sufficient for the Commander/GC, which you have a Hemi that has a hydrualically driven fan powered from the PS system. I suspect the hydrualic driven fan is the reason for the higher MS-10838 spec for PS fluid, BUT I HAVE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO CONFIRM THAT. I don't have the hydrualic driven fan in my Commander, so it would be nice to able to use something meeting the MS-9602 spec that is much easier and cheaper to find, if I could confirm that MS-9602 is sufficient for Commanders that do NOT have the hydrualic driven fan.

The MS-10838 is only available from the dealer and rather expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
He did use proper fluid. Mechanic is telling me that the severe angle is causing premature failure.
 

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I'm surprised that this is an issue. I am not aware of this being a common problem.

Maybe the mechanic is blaming the failure on the RC so as to not be liable?
 

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The more severe angle of the tie rods from the lift could put more stress on the rack, it would also increase the stress on the tie rod ends, especially the inner tie rod joints, they would be more likely to fail sooner.

If you've never had a tie rod joint fail, but you've had your 2nd steering rack fail, I'd start to get a bit suspicious. I can't say it isn't possible, but its NOT likely.

But for a two inch lift, that just extends the suspension in its range of motion, that increase in stress would NOT be that much, it would NOT likely cause that extreme of a early failures. So maybe the Commander is more susceptible to the slight increase in stress, but if that was true I think we would be seeing more posts about early Rack Failures than we do.

Again, I can't tell you for sure, and NO I don't have a lift, we'll have to wait until those with the RC lift chime in and get a bit of a consensus.

Oh, the Mechanic "claiming" he used the proper fluid can mean different things. Some would pick up a bottle of the wrong fluid and say, "See, it says Power Steering Fluid right on the bottle, of course I used the correct fluid". Some might refer to the label on a bottle of fluid that says it is for all Late Model Chrysler and Jeep vehicles, and it barely meets the 3 specs ago from the 90's for Chrysler vehicles. Some might refer to a TSB stating that MS-9602 is suitable for retrofit PS fluid for all Chrysler vehicles NOT realizing the later spec for the Commander/GC states MS-9602 is NOT suitable and only the newer MS-10838 is suitable.

The MS-10838 I bought for my Commander was totally clear, when I flushed out the old fluid, it came out black, although the new fluid has been in there much longer and is still staying clear. So you can wipe the dipstick on a clean rag, if its pink/red/amber or any color than clear or clear with some suspended dirt making it look blackish, then I would be extremely suspicious it was serviced with the incorrect fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Matt, Do you think the angle is wearing the rack. I was thinking of making a tie rod end adapter and using Universal ball mount with tapered bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ill try to snug the yoke adjustment, should be easy enough, or am I wrong?
 

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The increased angles do cause more wear, but not in 10k miles.

The rack noise is common in XK/WK's, I believe because the excess angles make the extra slop in the gears noticeable. It's been well over a year since I adjusted my rack yoke, i'm running much steeper angles than you, I've probably beat mine up offroad more than you in the past year, and my noise hasn't come back.

Your only option to decreasing the angle is to buy the Superlift (not a bad option). You can't just change the angle of the tie rod, that'll cause bump steer which is worse than a benign clunk noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is there a maximum I should turn that adjustment screw. Is it like a Steering box screw? Im gonna play with it tomorrow morning before the rains come...
 

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Check the link I posted. I show pictures and the process I used. You only want to go far enough to take out slop without tightening the steering

If you can't get it I may be able to help in the afternoon
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Matt, Im going to give it a try this morning, Thanks for the offer. I have to Take tire off too, They had replaced lower control arm bushings, which definitely tightened up the front, but now have a vibration at 75-80 that wasn't there before. I hate when that happens!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, gave it the ole college try, of course I don't have the 17mm wrench R&P, so im going to run to Advanced Auto and see how much their going to overcharge for the External Torx socket, size E20.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got the E20 socket at Eppy's. Only had the 1/2 in drive, so i bought it. I had to grind it down to get on the Rack square so it would not slip. I marked the rack and bolt head and got it moved. Its already very tight and hard to turn but i managed to turn it a little. Now just have to drive and see what it does...
 

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My experience with adjusting pre-load on steering boxes have been the old recirculating ball steering systems. You have to be very careful NOT to adjust it too tight, otherwise it will create too much pressure on the gear teeth and accelerate wear.

That may NOT be applicable to Rack & Pinion, but looking at the diagram in the link, it certainly looks the same principle would apply.

The one recirculating ball steering box I over tightened, which resulted in things getting better for a short period, but much worse very soon after, the big clue it was over tighten, The Friction in the Steering Box was so High that it was NOT returning to center on its own. I.E. in a turn, if you let go of the steering wheel, the wheels and steering wheel return to center on their own, in the case of my over tightened steering box it did NOT, loosen it some more got to return some in tight turns, but you manually had to return the steering wheel to center coming out of turns.

Yea, in that case the steering box should have been replaced instead of trying to tweak it hoping it would get better, but I imagine it is possible to damage a good box if you over tighten that adjustment. Just something to keep in mind.
 

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I make mention of that in the procedure I previously wrote up in the link. Need to make sure wheel returns to center or you've gone too far. Basically just want to tighten it enough to take out enough backlash so its quiet.

Typing from my phone really does limit the level of detail I post.... damn technology
 

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Holy Crap! I took a left turn today and heard this loud pop and clunk felt like the left wheel was gonna fall off. Think this might be my problem too? Just put my lift on 2 weeks ago.
 

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Could be. Also check all your skid plate bolts. I've found them to be a common source of popping noises as well, especially when flexing into turns (like driveways)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was finally able to adjust the rack. I had to customize my New E20 1/2 drive socket. I was NOT gonna loosen the rack!!! I do still have noise, but I think its UCA on drivers side. How hard is it to do?
 
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