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Hi everyone! Please forgive me, I am unversed in car talk. Totally ignorant, but I need help and I don't know if my 2006 Limited Commander issue is this recall. In January, my battery died. Replaced. Shortly there after I noticed windows wouldn't stay rolled up, Nav screen won't light, radio works but can't change mode on console. Sunroof won't shut all the way. Basically, odd electrical issues. Today, I went out to start the Jeep and it is dead. Won't even turn over. It is blocking my only other means of transportation. Can't get it out of park to roll it down driveway. My husband is out of the country and I am frustrated. UPDATE: I jumped it myself (my first time ever) and took it to where I purchased new battery in January. Battery and alternator good. It is back in garage with 2 amp charger on. I am scared to drive it for fear of being stranded.
 

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What you describe sounds like an electrical issue, did the shop that checked your battery and alternator check the voltage of the electrical system with the engine off and running? That would be the first thing to check. A lot of the later vehicles, including Commander's use electronic control modules (ECM's that are computers) to operate the things you complain about, these ECM's work off semi-conductors that need clean, proper power, just voltage being too low can cause all sorts of logic malfunctions in these modules. for lack of a better term, they can go crazy, and start wipers that were never switched on, etc.

You need to measure the voltage on the electric system, you need to clean battery terminals and grounds to the engine, etc. A very bad short somewhere in the electric system or dirty/poor connections with things that are critical maintaining voltage control, like grounds is my first suspicion.

Again, the Commander has many posts about corroded terminals on the starter causing starting problems. That is one place where you can have short from the built up corrosion and it won't blow a fuse, a short on those terminals can drag down the whole electric system and create all sorts of problems. BUT, its NOT the only possible cause, just one guess to check.

No where in this have you described the ignition key unintended switching off with a bump of a knee or a swinging key chain. Thus, this recall is NOT the cause of your issues.

Yes, it could be confusing reading the threads about the ignition switch recall, because some many people keep posting assuming it is for any issue related to ignition switches or stalling, it is NOT. It is for ignition switches becoming so loose in their ability to hold the position they are set for, that they will switch to the off position while driving by minor forces that it should NOT, thus people having their engine shut off unintended while driving.
 

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Mongo:

Thanks so much for your response and your patience with my lack of knowledge. I truly appreciate it. I think I've figured it out, but before I call my Dealer/Service Center, I want your opinion!

So, after the trickle charge of 2 amps for 36 hours, it still wouldn't start. So I put it on 10amp overnight. Still wouldn't start, just this weird click when I turned the key. I was frustrated and jiggled the key in the ignition switch and tried it again. Viola! I've been driving it for a few days, and every time I try to start it, it just clicks. However, once I jiggle the key in the switch, it starts! Battery is obviously just fine.

So, is this, in fact, part of the recall (knowing the official recall is hitting switch with knee, etc) issue or just a bad ignition switch? BtW, I only have my house key on the key chain with the Jeep key.

Thanks in advance!:bowdown:
 

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Have you checked for any stored fault codes? That should always be your first step in troubleshooting, those fault codes might be huge clues to narrowing down the problem. Do a you tube search on how to do the Chrysler Key Dance.

No, it does NOT sound like you have the issue that is part of the recall, you may NOT even have a bad ignition switch.

You've left off, does the charger actually charge the battery? When you charge the battery, the charger should have a little meter on it indicating the charge of the battery. If the meter is still indicating that the battery has no or a low charge after charging all night, then something is wrong with the battery or there is a short somewhere that is shorting the charging current and preventing it from charging. If the battery charger is indicating the battery has a full charge, then its NOT the battery that is your problem, it is the starter or the circuits controlling the starter.

The issue the recall is for, will NOT keep the vehicle from starting, nor will it keep the vehicle from charging. It will only allow the ignition key to move to off with so little force it can happen on its own resulting in unintended turning the engine off while driving.

There are many threads on this forum for corrosion on the terminals of the starter and the cables attaching to them. This sounds like your problem. The corrosion could short the starter and thus the battery, draining the battery and even preventing it from charging. The corrosion on the starter terminals has also caused intermittent starting, to include days of reliable starting and then days where it won't start at all.

Perhaps you do have bad ignition switch electrically, something went wrong internally with the electric components. That might keep circuits live that should shut off, thus NOT allowing the battery to charge. Or perhaps the switches that should close, never close and thus no starting. Jingling the key to get it to start does sound like something in the ignition switch is loose and pops into place for a moment.

You need to check the terminals on the starter motor and check the electrical function of the ignition switch.

Even if you've never had the key unintended switch off while driving, in your assessment, the force required to move the key out of the run position to the accessory or lock position is so little, it could happen on its own, without you actually putting your hand on the key and turning it; then yes, it sounds like you have the issue that the recall talks about. (Keep in mind, this is coincidence, it would NOT cause the motor to NOT start).

If another part, the electrical part, of the ignition switch has failed and that is the source of the failure to start; well you could get the ignition switch replaced under the recall and solve two birds with one stone (this would still just be a lucky coincidence). But, like they say, the Dealers are telling people the new redesigned ignition switch is NOT available yet, you'll have to wait to have the recall done. And in that case why don't you just replace the ignition switch on your own dime with one of the current switches in stock and solve the starting issue as you wait for the recall.
 

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Mondo:

Thank you once again. I will look into all of this, one at a time, per your suggestion.

You are a very valuable resource to people like me and you are appreciated.!Keep up the great advice and thoughts on this forum.

I'll post an update once this has been solved so you can know which of your assessments was correct!
 

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Ok, had the the recall ignition switch installed two days ago; this resolution is not acceptable! The switch takes a considerable amount of torque to turn on and then the make you push the key in and then off. That takes so much torque that my father-in-law, in no way can shut the car off. I am in my 50's and my wrist already hurts after two days driving the car.

The other issue is that the plastic part of the key will most certainly fail now that the stress on it is so much greater. Will Chrysler replace the keys if they break apart?

Chrysler has gone about this all wrong! You made a mistake and you need to make it right, not more difficult. They should have just used the current cylinders they are using in their new Jeeps; yes they would have to include new keys and interface it to the car, but they would not have had to spend the money on R&D for the new key.
 
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Go back to the dealer.

I just had the recall performed on a Commander I just bought. I can't tell any difference in turning the key. I would say the new key fobs are great because the ones that came with the vehicle were almost useless from wear. Go back to dealer and see if it is installed correctly. Something is wrong if your wrist is sore. Edit: The recall performed my vehicle was P57.
 

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Do you have to push the key in hard befire beginning to turn the key to the off position? If I don't push the key in the key will not turn off no matter how hard I turn the key.
 

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I just had the recall performed on a Commander I just bought. I can't tell any difference in turning the key. I would say the new key fobs are great because the ones that came with the vehicle were almost useless from wear. Go back to dealer and see if it is installed correctly. Something is wrong if your wrist is sore.
I haven't had my service done. You get new keys, as in two? I bought mine used and it only came with one. BTW, welcome to the forum.
 

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Got mine done yesturday and no I didn't get a new key they replaced the silinder and then they have a lock smith match the pins so you can use your own key not new key. It is a little hard but nothing to extreme for me just have to push and twist off. I also had the P74 recall for the drive train reflash everything went well but I was told that sometimes it doesn't work and the customer has to go back the next day and they had a customer that it took 3 days to get the correct update for her jeep to start working fine again if it screws up the jeep won't drive. They also told me there were 3 updates for my jeeps software but those would cost $55 so I didn't get those.
 
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Clarification!

My XK is a 2008 Limited QDII Hemi. Having said that the applicable ignition switch recall is P57. I also had the dealer perform P73 for the final drive control module plus "Flash Software 3" for the FDCM that I paid $20 for.

Sorry for any confusion on the P41 recall. And yes, I received 2 new fobs for the P57 recall.
 

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I received two new fobs with the recall as well. Maybe it depends on the year? I have an 08 and mine doesn't use an actual key to start the vehicle.
 

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Sorry, I guess I should've read a little more on this thread but I had the P57 performed.
 

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This is a Chrysler FOBIK Key

This is Chrysler Transponder Key, one just the key that the head has a transponder (XPR) chip in it, and the other the same thing, just a remote on the head of the key. The remote is just that, a separate remote that fits on the head of the key.

They work on different principals, and use different ignition switches/lock cylinders.

Commanders came with both, it depends on the year. So please, when posting state the year of your Commander to avoid confusion. I could be wrong, but I think the Commander switched to the FOBIK key in 2008.

I could be wrong, but I "thought" the recall only covered the FOBIK system ignition switch. From some of the posts lacking the details necessary to tell, talking about re-keying lock cylinders, it sounds like the recall includes Transponder Keys as well?

From my understanding, which could be wrong, both systems the ignition switch just has an antenna to communicate with the key, both Transponder and FOBIK, that the actual logic that is done to determine if the key identifying signal is accepted and allows the vehicle to start is done in another module that is connected to the ignition switch.

But, it is possible, since they work on different principals, that one type of key system, would require new keys with a new ignition switch and the other does NOT. Since folks are posting without being specific with which type of key they have or year of their vehicle, it becomes confusing.

Don't rule out, the Dealerships might be providing new keys as favor or apology for the inconvenience or even Dealerships NOT understanding the system thinking new keys are necessary with the recall. While others are NOT providing new keys and just programming the vehicle to work with the old keys when replacing the switch.
 

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This is a Chrysler POD Key



It is for the Chrysler FOBIK Key System. Since the FOBIK is really 3 devices in one.
  1. An RFID Chip that is identified to allow the vehicle to start
  2. A remote control to unlock and do remote functions for the vehicle
  3. A hidden key blade for unlocking doors if the remote fails.
Since these are all separate functions/devices, the battery in your FOBIK can go dead or malfunction and you can still unlock the door and start the car.

The POD Key is just the RFID chip with the exposed key blade, with no remote.

The POD Key is often used by locksmith as cheap alternative to get customers back on the road when they loose all their keys or lock a key in the car. But you can purchase them off ebay and have them programmed to you FOBIK Key System car if you want. They do cost less the actual FOBIK. I purchased several and had them programmed and keep them in a safe place in case I loose a FOBIK.

If you look at your FOBIK System ignition switch, you see there is hole or slot in it, that is for the POD Key, to let the key blade go inside and be able to insert the plastic plug that actually turns the ignition switch. The Ignition switch is NOT keyed in anyway, its just hole that lets the key blade go into it. The system uses the RFID chip to identify the key, if its an accepted key, it will unlock the ignition switch and let the plastic plug turn the ignition switch. The key blade is just for the old fashioned lock cylinders in the driver's side door.
 

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This is a Chrysler FOBIK Key

This is Chrysler Transponder Key

They work on different principals, and use different ignition switches/lock cylinders.

Commanders came with both, it depends on the year. So please, when posting state the year of your Commander to avoid confusion. I could be wrong, but I think the Commander switched to the FOBIK key in 2008.

I could be wrong, but I "thought" the recall only covered the FOBIK system ignition switch. From some of the posts lacking the details necessary to tell, talking about re-keying lock cylinders, it sounds like the recall includes Transponder Keys as well?

From my understanding, which could be wrong, both systems the ignition switch just has an antenna to communicate with the key, both Transponder and FOBIK, that the actual logic that is done to determine if the key identifying signal is accepted and allows the vehicle to start is done in another module that is connected to the ignition switch.

But, it is possible, since they work on different principals, that one type of key system, would require new keys with a new ignition switch and the other does NOT. Since folks are posting without being specific with which type of key they have or year of their vehicle, it becomes confusing.

Don't rule out, the Dealerships might be providing new keys as favor or apology for the inconvenience or even Dealerships NOT understanding the system thinking new keys are necessary with the recall. While others are NOT providing new keys and just programming the vehicle to work with the old keys when replacing the switch.
No, my 06 XK was called for the recall as well; not the FOBIK key system.
 

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No, my 06 XK was called for the recall as well; not the FOBIK key system.
Then your Commander must have the Transponder Key.

Well that establishes the recall is for both Key Systems that came with the Commander.

Now we need to establish if it is only one type of Key System that is getting new keys with a new ignition switch.

Lets keep in mind, both systems may NOT require new keys, just some dealers are providing new keys with the recall, while others are NOT.
 
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