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I just had the recall performed on a Commander I just bought. I can't tell any difference in turning the key. I would say the new key fobs are great because the ones that came with the vehicle were almost useless from wear. Go back to dealer and see if it is installed correctly. Something is wrong if your wrist is sore.
Key Fob? As in FOBIK Key system? What year is your Vehicle and what Key system do you have?
Got mine done yesturday and no I didn't get a new key they replaced the silinder and then they have a lock smith match the pins so you can use your own key not new key. It is a little hard but nothing to extreme for me just have to push and twist off. I also had the P74 recall for the drive train reflash everything went well but I was told that sometimes it doesn't work and the customer has to go back the next day and they had a customer that it took 3 days to get the correct update for her jeep to start working fine again if it screws up the jeep won't drive. They also told me there were 3 updates for my jeeps software but those would cost $55 so I didn't get those.
Yes, from my understanding, the Transponder Key uses a regular lock cylinder connected to the ignition switch in addition to a transponder chip in the key, that regardless of the key blade being able to turn the lock cylinder, the vehicle will NOT start if it doesn't identify the Transponder Chip as being one that is accepted.

If the issue is the key being accidentally switch to off, that would revolve around the lock cylinder itself. I'm pretty sure the Commander does NOT have the ignition switch integral with the lock cylinder. The switch fits to the lock cylinder. So all those folks with transponder keys ('06-'07?)thinking their ignition switch electrical problems is covered under the recall may be in for a big surprised when they find out the actual "switch" isn't changed, just the parts dealing with turning the key, and they have to replace the bad part or repair the electrical problem in their vehicle.

The FOBIK key system ('08 and up?) works totally differently, so the entire ignition switch module is replaced.

You would have to rekey the lock cylinder to work with the existing key or rekey the door locks for the new keys. There are plenty of replacement ignition switches that are different than OEM from the factory in that they are easy to rekey in order to key them to the existing key for the vehicle. You really don't have to be a lock smith to key these, its so simple many guys at the Dealer Parts Counter know how to do it for the customers that order them.

I can also see Dealers being lazy and instead of rekeying the new lock cylinders for existing keys or changing the door cylinders for new keys, they simply swap the new lock cylinder in, hand the owner the new keys and expect them to live with two different keys for their vehicle, the old ones for the doors and the new one for the ignition. Since the key head has a remote, it might be a long while before the owner realizes the new key will NOT unlock the doors if the remote is NOT working.

Now the Fobik's, I am almost positive that replacing just the ignition switch module does NOT require new keys. People have posted they replaced those and the old keys worked just fine. So I'm puzzled why dealer would be providing new FOBIK's, but we haven't established that yet. Since the old transponder key's had a remote in the key head, we get a lot of people calling those keys FOBIK's or Key Fob's and confusing the issue.
 

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Hmmmm, yet there are threads on here where folks replaced their own ignition module for the FOBIK system, and their old FOBIK's continued to work? I'll have to search for that thread, I'm wondering if I confused it with the older key system. I was under the impression the ignition module was just the antenna, that the actual interrogation logic for the RFID chip was done in a different module.
 

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So has the recall fixed the problem? My ignition switch is so loose if I hit the rumble strips on the side of the interstate, it will shut down the dash. That's with no keychain(single key)
If your problem is the ignition switch they will replace, then it should fix your problem.

What year is your Commander and what key system does it have? Commanders have two different key systems and they work very differently.

The recall is to replace the Ignition switch with a redesigned one that is much less likely to unintentionally move to the off position while the vehicle is moving. It doesn't sound like your ignition switch is unintentionally moving to the off position?

Depending on your key system, I have seen posts about Commanders with flickering dash lights and intermittent dash electrical failures being caused by the ignition switch. And the fact your ignition switch is also extremely loose, I would think it would be a good chance that is the cause and them performing the recall very well might fix it.

But, it also might not fix it, because the cause for you're flickering dash lights might be something else. Remember, the recall is to replace the ignition switch with a redesigned one to fix a design flaw, that is the ignition switch being to easy to switch to off. The recall is NOT for fixing any problem an owner may have to seems to be related to the ignition, so replacing the ignition switch doesn't fix your problem, they are under no commitment to troubleshoot/diagnose it under the recall, you're problem is something other than the ignition switch.
 
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thanks for the reply mongo. i had the recall done today and it appears to have fixed the problem. my jeep is a 06 limited hemi. the jeep has 137k miles on it so the ignition switch has been used quite a bit. the old ignition was very loose. my problem was that, at random times, the dash would lose power. i could jiggle the key and get the dash back up. sometimes it would throw codes for fuel signal loss because of the lost power. this happened a couple time riding down the interstate when i hit the rubble strips on the side of the road or a dip or bump. i could duplicate this while parked by flicking the key. i didn't get a chance to ask the service tech about the condition of the old switch, but i imagine the thing fell into pieces when he removed it. the new switch has a very firm lock into the run/on position and doesn't have any play whatsoever. i believe the old one was so sloppy that it was losing a electrical contact for the acc and dash lights. it never disengaged enough to turn the motor off, so i never lost power steering or braking ability, only dash, radio and headlights. And only for a second while i tapped the key.
ill keep you guys posted.
 

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I had the recall done about a week ago. The ignition switch was replaced and no, I didn't get a new key. The new cylinder is kind of clunky and stiff. I suppose after a while it'll get worn in. Didn't need to have it done, but what the heck, it's a new part in a 10 year old car.
 

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thanks for the reply mongo. i had the recall done today and it appears to have fixed the problem. my jeep is a 06 limited hemi. the jeep has 137k miles on it so the ignition switch has been used quite a bit. the old ignition was very loose. my problem was that, at random times, the dash would lose power. i could jiggle the key and get the dash back up. sometimes it would throw codes for fuel signal loss because of the lost power. this happened a couple time riding down the interstate when i hit the rubble strips on the side of the road or a dip or bump. i could duplicate this while parked by flicking the key. i didn't get a chance to ask the service tech about the condition of the old switch, but i imagine the thing fell into pieces when he removed it. the new switch has a very firm lock into the run/on position and doesn't have any play whatsoever. i believe the old one was so sloppy that it was losing a electrical contact for the acc and dash lights. it never disengaged enough to turn the motor off, so i never lost power steering or braking ability, only dash, radio and headlights. And only for a second while i tapped the key.
ill keep you guys posted.
A 2006, you likely have the "Transponder" key system.

Its good you got two birds killed with one stone, fixing the intermittent electrical connection internal to the ignition switch fixed when they replaced the ignition switch with a redesigned one for the "Knee Bump" issue.

I have had to replace ignition switch on 2 vehicles I've owned, for breakage or wearing out, they are like any other part on a car, they are subject to failure and wearing out. So lets keep in mind the recall is for replacing the existing ignition switch that can be turned off to easily with a knee bump, nothing else. The recall has nothing to do with stalling. A few lucky folks that need a new ignition switch are just lucking out with this recall that is replacing it for a totally different issues. As well, there are more than a few with Stalling Issues that have nothing to do with the ignition switch, that are going to be sorely disappointed when they learn that they had jumped to conclusions thinking the recall was to fix their stalling issue, only to find it still there and the Dealer explaining the recall has nothing to do with their stalling issues.

I had the recall done about a week ago. The ignition switch was replaced and no, I didn't get a new key. The new cylinder is kind of clunky and stiff. I suppose after a while it'll get worn in. Didn't need to have it done, but what the heck, it's a new part in a 10 year old car.
Your signature says a 2006 Commander, so I assume you have the "Transponder" (XPDR) key system.

Later Commanders have the "FOBIK" key system, judging from the few posts I've seen, they are confusing because no one identifies which key system they have when reporting they got the recall performed, the FOBIK system when they replace the "WIN", (like an ignition switch), they provide two new keys.
 

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I have an 07 Grand Cherokee and did have the ignition replaced. I now have to push the key into the ignition to start and also to shut it off. This can be gotten used to. But my problem now is that the steering column module went out. This part is on backorder and the cost is $866 installed. The dealer has had my car for a month and hopefully will get the part in soon. I told them I would be leaving for the winter soon and they realized if the car wasn't repaired they would have to store it until I returned.
The service writer told me that there were 1000 of these on backorder. Now I am wondering if the replacement of the ignition switch caused this failure. Is anyone familiar enough with this possibility?
 

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I have an 07 Grand Cherokee and did have the ignition replaced. I now have to push the key into the ignition to start and also to shut it off. This can be gotten used to. But my problem now is that the steering column module went out. Now I am wondering if the replacement of the ignition switch caused this failure. Is anyone familiar enough with this possibility?
There are alot of Commander owners on this site that have had this recall done including myself.

The Key FOBIK is definitely harder to get it in but I have never heard of having to push and turn the key simultaneously to start and shut off the engine - which is how I'm reading your post.

You should have to push it to get it in, but once the Key FOB is seated in the ignition, you shouldn't have to push it any longer - at that point, you should be able to just turn the key (without pushing) and start the engine.

The fact that you have to push the key in and keep pushing it in while you turn it - not only to start your Grand Cherokee but to turn it off as well, makes me think that they screwed something up when they installed your ignition switch because that is definitely not normal - and that could very well be what caused your steering column module to fail. That's speculation on my part, but, it certainly makes sense.

I had a 2008 Grand Cherokee for 3 years from 2011 to 2014 and I have this 2008 Commander for a little over 2 years now and I have never heard of anybody else having their steering column module fail after having their ignition switch replaced.
 

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I just had 2 recalls done together and had a horrible dealer experience which I thought I'd share. I had this ignition recall and and the previous one (# 13V175000 / transfer case) which I had been putting off because I just don't like dealerships. So after I drop off my Jeep I get a call from the dealer and the rep asked if my windows had been previously rolling up and down ok (they were). He said one window module stopped working, and even though they don't think fixing the recalls caused the issue they decided to replace it free (good on them). Then on the drive home from the dealership my cruise control didn't work right (basically shuts off when I push the button to accelerate or decelerate, sometimes doesn't work at all). I immediately brought it back and they said sorry it wasn't their doing and they won't take responsibility. Mind you I brought my XK new in 2006 (have only 50k miles) and literally have not had one mechanical or computer issue in 10 years. What are the chances that the cruise control would act up at exactly that point in time driving away from the dealer?! They also couldn't properly diagnose the problem (no computer codes were showing) with the cruise control, and after consulting Chrysler engineer they said the best they could do is start replacing one component of the cruise control system at a time and it could cost anywhere from $300 to $1000+ depending on what component is bad. So I left and am never going back there. This is the AutoNation Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealership in Bellevue WA. I'm so mad I even wrote a letter to AutoNation's CEO and Chief Operating Officer.
 

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The issue isn't that dangerous, people have reported it happening, but its rare and has yet to cause an accident.

Since the recall is for a design flaw in the switch, they have to redesign the switch, build and ship it before recalls can start.

I have a feeling Chrysler was just covering their butt by doing the recall voluntarily, at a time when GM was being excoriated in the media for ignoring an obvious, very common and serious problem with their ignition switches that was causing accidents.

So is Chrysler just paying lip service to avoid bad press at the moment and have no intention of actually following through and fixing it? (They've done it with the incompatibility issues with their uconnect, for ten years costumer service still reads the same script, "We are aware of the problem and a fix will be issued soon", ten years later and it still hasn't been issued. -OR- Is Chrysler actually working on a fix and you'll see it soon? We hit the 1 year point and the dealers are still saying the new parts aren't available, I'll conclude Chrysler is doing the former.

Keep in mind, the recall is for the ignition being turned off when the key is bumped with a knee. They have to make the ignition switch stronger, with more resistance to moving out of the position its set.

It is NOT for:
Getting new keys or extra keys, likely you're old keys will work and no new keys will come with it.
Fixing light flickering/stalling issues from electrical failures within the switch, it happened on a few commanders, but it isn't at the level of being a design/quality flaw. Parts wear out or fail on vehicles, sometimes you have to replace them. If you're experiencing this, just spend the $50 and half hour and replace your ignition switch with one of the current design, or stop complaining if you're so cheap that you're willing to put up with this problem waiting for Manufacturer to replace it for free for a totally different problem.
Hi.. I just had the switched replaced in my 2007. I get it home and ever since I have lights flashing horn going off. So I called the local dealership that replaced it...they find no problem !!! I pick it up this morning...and the horn has gone off 10 times sitting in the driveway... bought the jeep 14 months ago...no problems, love my jeep.... replace the switch and horn and lights ... where do I go from here????
 

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Hi.. I just had the switched replaced in my 2007. I get it home and ever since I have lights flashing horn going off. So I called the local dealership that replaced it...they find no problem !!! I pick it up this morning...and the horn has gone off 10 times sitting in the driveway... bought the jeep 14 months ago...no problems, love my jeep.... replace the switch and horn and lights ... where do I go from here????
Are you receiving any diagnostic trouble codes in your dash cluster?

If the problem continues (and I'm sure it will) I'd go right back to the local dealership that replaced the ignition switch and get the service manager involved - clearly they are not being very thorough.

If you had a DTC to give them, at least you could point them in the right direction.
 

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I had mine done a lil while back, maybe around 8 months ago or so. I remember following it up time to time because they had to first " design the fix " despite sending out the recall a year in advance. Anyway, the only thing different is the key is now alot harder to turn, as if there is a heavy indent inside of the ignition unit and they put some funky ugly sticker next to the ignition switch so as to alert the functionally illiterate on starting an engine. The crap thing about this whole experience now is that these dealer suckers have informed me that my QDII low is now inoperative and throwing a code? I've always maintained proper fluids with the entire drive train and wheel it next to never, or to be honest, never by definition of the people who actually wheel or take things offroad with their Commanders in this forum im certain. Anyways, nothing of great news from the dealer as usual.
 

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I had mine done a lil while back, maybe around 8 months ago or so. I remember following it up time to time because they had to first " design the fix " despite sending out the recall a year in advance. Anyway, the only thing different is the key is now alot harder to turn, as if there is a heavy indent inside of the ignition unit and they put some funky ugly sticker next to the ignition switch so as to alert the functionally illiterate on starting an engine. The crap thing about this whole experience now is that these dealer suckers have informed me that my QDII low is now inoperative and throwing a code? I've always maintained proper fluids with the entire drive train and wheel it next to never, or to be honest, never by definition of the people who actually wheel or take things offroad with their Commanders in this forum im certain. Anyways, nothing of great news from the dealer as usual.
I assume you mean you can't shift into 4-LOW.

If you have QuadraTrac II or QuadraDrive II there is a reasonable chance you need to have the P73 campaign completed because both of these 4WD systems use the NV245 transfer case which the P73 campaign applies to.

The primary symptom of needing the P73 campaign - reprogramming of your final drive control module, is not being able to shift into 4 LOW.

If your Commander has already had the P73 campaign completed, then most likely, it's your transfer case actuator motor that is bad, which about a $750.00 repair.

You can also go to the Chrysler recall website and plug in your VIN number.

Safety Recall Information | MOPAR

If P73 applies to your Commander, it will be listed there - and if it has been completed it should be annotated as such, with a date of completion listed

I can also tell you that when you go to the safety recall website, you won't see P73 listed under safety recalls - because P73 is not a safety recall, it's actually a campaign and it's listed on the Chrysler safety recall website under campaigns. It's also not listed as P73 - it's actually listed as REPROGRAM FINAL DRIVE CONTROL MODULE in the form of a hyperlink.

When you click on the REPROGRAM FINAL DRIVE CONTROL MODULE hyperlink, then the P73 customer satisfaction notice comes up, which I have attached at the bottom of this post.

The difference between a safety recall and a campaign is this; a safety recall pertains to a vehicle problem that is a safety concern; a campaign is a vehicle problem that is not a safety concern, but, pertains to customer satisfaction.

I've attached the P73 campaign notice below:

Attached Files: P73.pdf (167.9 KB, 46 views)

Here is a good thread where you can read about what I (and others) have experienced when dealing with the P73 campaign:

Chrysler/ Jeep P73 Recall

If you don't go off-road much there is probably no rush in your mind to get it fixed - but if the P73 campaign is the cause of you not being able to shift into 4-LOW, it would be a free repair.
 

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I assume you mean you can't shift into 4-LOW.

If you have QuadraTrac II or QuadraDrive II there is a reasonable chance you need to have the P73 campaign completed because both of these 4WD systems use the NV245 transfer case which the P73 campaign applies to.

The primary symptom of needing the P73 campaign - reprogramming of your final drive control module, is not being able to shift into 4 LOW.

If your Commander has already had the P73 campaign completed, then most likely, it's your transfer case actuator motor that is bad, which about a $750.00 repair.

You can also go to the Chrysler recall website and plug in your VIN number.

Safety Recall Information | MOPAR

If P73 applies to your Commander, it will be listed there - and if it has been completed it should be annotated as such, with a date of completion listed

I can also tell you that when you go to the safety recall website, you won't see P73 listed under safety recalls - because P73 is not a safety recall, it's actually a campaign and it's listed on the Chrysler safety recall website under campaigns. It's also not listed as P73 - it's actually listed as REPROGRAM FINAL DRIVE CONTROL MODULE in the form of a hyperlink.

When you click on the REPROGRAM FINAL DRIVE CONTROL MODULE hyperlink, then the P73 customer satisfaction notice comes up, which I have attached at the bottom of this post.

The difference between a safety recall and a campaign is this; a safety recall pertains to a vehicle problem that is a safety concern; a campaign is a vehicle problem that is not a safety concern, but, pertains to customer satisfaction.

I've attached the P73 campaign notice below:

Attached Files: P73.pdf (167.9 KB, 46 views)

Here is a good thread where you can read about what I (and others) have experienced when dealing with the P73 campaign:

Chrysler/ Jeep P73 Recall

If you don't go off-road much there is probably no rush in your mind to get it fixed - but if the P73 campaign is the cause of you not being able to shift into 4-LOW, it would be a free repair.
Hi Blue,
Correct, If I were to pull the selector up to engage the 4-Low I remember seeing a warning or something in the dash which indicates an issue preventing it from being engaged. I will investigate further because it will bug me if anything. In fact I will take a picture right now of what comes up on the dash since we are on this topic and I will get my vin to check.

Okay coming back after pics:
Well I took some pics and gave the 4wd low a try and it does engage the 4wd Low without any dash indicator issues this time. Mind you i didnt drive around as i'm in my driveway and understand I shouldnt really drive like this on road. But it didnt blink or indicate a problem this time and the 4WD light just stays on solid as can see in this pic and I can also hear something down there as if its locking? Anyway, I was just alerted at the dealer about this during the time of that last recall work and he showed me something on the dash at the time indicating 4low was bad and the service guy was basically saying it will cost me money, atleast thats the only thing that I recall at the time, naturally. I'll be honest and say that i'm still not convinced 4WD low is free of issues after that experience at the Jeep dealer. Whats your take on this Blue? I will investigate further what you had mentioned regarding the P73 campaign and run my vin recall checks in the meantime. Big thanks Big Blue!

Okay just checked VIN, it says that P73 campaign that you had mentioned was completed in may. Its funny reading the P73 note or memo link considering that the issue mentioned in it is actually the issue pointed out by the tech upon completion of that recall or campaign issue. I'm starting to feel as if they were simply just trying to get me out of there not knowing better at the time with the P73 issue not resolved, kinda like just get him outta here. I dunno. What do you think?
 

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Hi Blue,
Correct, If I were to pull the selector up to engage the 4-Low I remember seeing a warning or something in the dash which indicates an issue preventing it from being engaged. I will investigate further because it will bug me if anything. In fact I will take a picture right now of what comes up on the dash since we are on this topic and I will get my vin to check.

Okay coming back after pics:
Well I took some pics and gave the 4wd low a try and it does engage the 4wd Low without any dash indicator issues this time. Mind you i didnt drive around as i'm in my driveway and understand I shouldnt really drive like this on road. But it didnt blink or indicate a problem this time and the 4WD light just stays on solid as can see in this pic and I can also hear something down there as if its locking? Anyway, I was just alerted at the dealer about this during the time of that last recall work and he showed me something on the dash at the time indicating 4low was bad and the service guy was basically saying it will cost me money, atleast thats the only thing that I recall at the time, naturally. I'll be honest and say that i'm still not convinced 4WD low is free of issues after that experience at the Jeep dealer. Whats your take on this Blue? I will investigate further what you had mentioned regarding the P73 campaign and run my vin recall checks in the meantime. Big thanks Big Blue!

Okay just checked VIN, it says that P73 campaign that you had mentioned was completed in may. Its funny reading the P73 note or memo link considering that the issue mentioned in it is actually the issue pointed out by the tech upon completion of that recall or campaign issue. I'm starting to feel as if they were simply just trying to get me out of there not knowing better at the time with the P73 issue not resolved, kinda like just get him outta here. I dunno. What do you think?
4-LOW staying on solid is a good indication that it's functioning properly.

The noise you heard is the transfer case switching into 4-LOW, that's normal and another good indicator that it's functioning properly.

You are correct that, as a general rule, you are not supposed to drive in 4-LOW on paved surfaces; That being said, I will do it every so often, for very brief periods of time, maybe a minute or two, at very slow speeds, just to make sure everything is working properly. I don't believe there is any harm in doing that as long as you are very careful and limit it to very brief periods.

It's possible that the mechanic was just trying to rush you out of there - maybe before you started asking too many questions - is this a dealership that you have been to before? Just curious if you have any kind of service history with them.

Keep in mind that if the problem of not being into 4-LOW returns, you can go to the dealership and ask to have the FDCM reflashed/reprogrammed again and they shouldn't charge you for it because this is a known, documented service campaign.

I know of at least one member that went and had his FDCM re-programmed 3 times and cleared 3 times consecutively, back to back to back because his FDCM kept losing the programming; it would be o.k. for a brief period and that start showing the service 4WD System trouble code again; Apparently in this particular case, it worked for him.

grumpyscosmos said:
I have read where flashing it and clearing 3 times in a row can have a better chance of holding.. I haven't read anywhere that anyone has come up with a final cure for this problem...

I got it flashed 3 and cleared 3 times consecutively day before yesterday...And its working perfect, see how long it holds..
You can read more about that here:

http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/89-new-member-section/61186-aloha-newbie-first-question-2.html

In my case, I actually had the transfer case actuator motor replaced...this was about 6 months before the P73 campaign came out.

I have had no problems with my transfer case FDCM since then.

However, when I found out about the P73 campaign about 11 months after it came out, I had that completed as well, just to be safe - and again, I have had no further issues.

I also submitted a claim for re-reimbursement to Chrysler and was paid in full for the transfer case actuator motor replacement within 2 weeks. You can read about that experience here if you like:

http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums...cussion/50641-chrysler-jeep-p73-recall-4.html
 

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This summer I had the ignition switch recall done on my 07 commander along with computer updates that the previous owner didnt have completed. When I got it back from the dealer my rear park assist module was completely dead. I replaced it with a used one off ebay for 67 dollars. It worked fine going in and the morning after driving it back home I went to back out of the garage and found that I had no rear assist warning light above the rear window. Im positive their update process randomly fries stuff. I pulled the case off the old rear park assist module out of curiosity and found no burned, heat discolored or damaged parts. Was just curious. The replacement works fine. As for the iginition switch. Yeah at the beginning it was hard to push in and turn then push in and turn to shut off. After 7 months the action has lightened. I feel if you hang in there it will loosen up for you too and be more manageable but you will always have to push and turn as the sticker says.
 

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Apologies for dragging up this old thread. My Commander is in with the dealer today to have P73 and P41 carried out. I have a problem whereby the ignition thinks that the key is permanently inserted (meaning I get the door open chimes when I open the door with no key in the ignition. It also means that I can only operate the central locking from the inside drivers door). Also, I am able to remove the key with the engine running. I am assuming that this has nothing to do with the P41 recall (which is a faulty switch and not the barrel)?

Can anyone confirm this?
 
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