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So @ 47k it looks like my XK needs a rear rotor and pad replacement. Rotors are just about at the minimum thickness spec ... The fronts seem to have a bit more left.

Anyone have good experiences with certain manufacturers... I think the OEM parts are junk ... just like the wheel nuts!

Rotors: Raybestos? ACdelco? Centric?
Pads: Raybestos? Bendix? Wagner? Monroe? Akebono? Centric?
 

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So @ 47k it looks like my XK needs a rear rotor and pad replacement. Rotors are just about at the minimum thickness spec ... The fronts seem to have a bit more left.

Anyone have good experiences with certain manufacturers... I think the OEM parts are junk ... just like the wheel nuts!

Rotors: Raybestos? ACdelco? Centric?
Pads: Raybestos? Bendix? Wagner? Monroe? Akebono? Centric?
Brakes are still good on my 2000 Honda Prelude I replaced myself. Lifetime warranty on both pads and rotors :). I installed all Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramic brake pads, and rotors. I'm looking forward to puttin on some on the XK when that time comes. It's all about peace of mind. Wagner has my two thumbs up...
 

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ive used brembo blanks and powerstop on my other vehicles before and like them. also used PBR pads with no problems. just put some brembo blanks with akebono pads on my v6 altima a couple weeks ago and like them so far.
 

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Just put Raybestos Advanced technology rotors and pads on all four corners - $330 delivered through Rockauto.com. very happy with the quality - have driven 20 miles, so we'll have to see re: longevity.
 

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Just ordered Centric Rotors and EBC Green pads for all 4 corners. I had power slots/hawk installed on my 02' Ram and that aftermarket combo proved to be worth EVERY cent...i could actually stop that truck while in traffic! We'll see how this combo does on the wifes commander.
 

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I was just told by my dealer that I need new rear pads and rotors as well. My JC is at 48K. I called a local auto shop and they wanted almost $425 to replace the rear pads and rotors. Does that seem high? Also, my brakes are not making any strange noises, so I know they are not eating into the rotors, is it necessary to replace the rotor or can I just replace the pads?
 

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I was just told by my dealer that I need new rear pads and rotors as well. My JC is at 48K. I called a local auto shop and they wanted almost $425 to replace the rear pads and rotors. Does that seem high? Also, my brakes are not making any strange noises, so I know they are not eating into the rotors, is it necessary to replace the rotor or can I just replace the pads?
IF.....you are not experiencing any brake pulsation and IF the rotor has no metal to metal damage on the friction faces, it is OK to simply replace the pads.
The new pads will conform to the wear pattern on the rotors within about 100 miles.
Yeah, I know. To us old timers this is blasphemy!
But, that comes right out of the book.
Be certain that the rotor thickness is still in spec. AND this applys only if using the original equipment pads as replacement.
I have done the above quite successfully on previous vehicles.

HOWEVER, since your vehicle is not in front of me and I am unable to road test, see, or measure anything, I would recommend you replace the rotors, and these can be procured rather inexpensively through the aftermarket.
Brake pads are your choice with new rotors but avoid going cheap.
You get exactly what you paid for when it comes to pads.

I have found that once a rotors faces have been cut to parellel they have a tendancy to warp because they are now just short of minimum thickness, hence the buy new recommendation.

$425.00??.....Well, assuming that is for two rotors, rear pads, labor and tax, which is currently 11% in Crook County in Chicago limit, or about $40.00 just for tax, or $375.00 without tax, the estimate is not unreasonable.

I'm sure I stirred up a real hornets nest with that first paragraph, but hell, we all needed something new to debate this week, right?

Good Luck,
Rob
 

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I replaced my rear rotors and pads last month and the total cost was around $200 dollars. I purchased everything from Napa and got the Priemium rotors and semi ceramic pads if I remember correctly. No squeaks, no problems. Soon ill have to replace the front rotors and pads.
 

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I replaced my rear rotors and pads last month and the total cost was around $200 dollars. I purchased everything from Napa and got the Priemium rotors and semi ceramic pads if I remember correctly. No squeaks, no problems. Soon ill have to replace the front rotors and pads.
I wonder if there's a complete DIY guide for replacing both pads and rotors on front/rear axles....anyone care to help?
 

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IF.....you are not experiencing any brake pulsation and IF the rotor has no metal to metal damage on the friction faces, it is OK to simply replace the pads.
The new pads will conform to the wear pattern on the rotors within about 100 miles.
Yeah, I know. To us old timers this is blasphemy!
But, that comes right out of the book.
Be certain that the rotor thickness is still in spec. AND this applys only if using the original equipment pads as replacement.
I have done the above quite successfully on previous vehicles.

HOWEVER, since your vehicle is not in front of me and I am unable to road test, see, or measure anything, I would recommend you replace the rotors, and these can be procured rather inexpensively through the aftermarket.
Brake pads are your choice with new rotors but avoid going cheap.
You get exactly what you paid for when it comes to pads.

I have found that once a rotors faces have been cut to parellel they have a tendancy to warp because they are now just short of minimum thickness, hence the buy new recommendation.

$425.00??.....Well, assuming that is for two rotors, rear pads, labor and tax, which is currently 11% in Crook County in Chicago limit, or about $40.00 just for tax, or $375.00 without tax, the estimate is not unreasonable.

I'm sure I stirred up a real hornets nest with that first paragraph, but hell, we all needed something new to debate this week, right?

Good Luck,
Rob
Thank Rob, I'm going to do a bit more research on this. Perhaps I'll look into changing them with a mechanic friend of mine. FWIW, I have not experienced any negative functionality from the brakes and was rather surprised when the dealer told me about them...
 

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Windows live has 8% cashback on purchases at autoanything.com. Just go to :
http://search.live.com/products/pages/stores.aspx?scope=cashback&FORM=CBFS07, and create an account, follow the instructions and should get cash back in the mail after your purchase. I dont know if other auto part stores are in the list but I will leave that for everyone else to check out. I plan on ordering a set of royal rotors (slot&drilled) with hawk pads.
 

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Okay, I changed the rear brake pads this weekend with a mechanic friend of mine. It was a very simple process, that took about 20 minutes from start to finish. He looked at the rotors and said they looked really pretty good and didn't see a need to change them, so we just switched out the pads.

I used the Wagner ceramic pads and they seem to be doing just fine. No real difference in stopping power, but also no less stopping power either.
 

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Sqeak!

Just ordered Centric Rotors and EBC Green pads for all 4 corners. I had power slots/hawk installed on my 02' Ram and that aftermarket combo proved to be worth EVERY cent...i could actually stop that truck while in traffic! We'll see how this combo does on the wifes commander.
Anyone have a solution to the insistant squeak that the above combination created? We can now stop the beast but everyone in the neighborhood knows we are stopping!
 

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I am right at 50,000 miles and will be doing a brake job soon.

Has anyone used the Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic brake pads on the Commander?

I heard some great reviews on the pads, but also some bad reviews saying how much noise these pads produce.

Any input PLEASE???
 

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One other important note: If you have larger, wider, or Heavier wheel/tires in general, or do alot of towing a stock pad will not be sufficient. If you have trail gear like bumpers, rails, winches, on board air, etc. look into upgrading your pads.

Wagner is considered a stock pad.

By stock pad, I mean basically anything from major parts stores, like MOPAR, Autozone, Advance, etc.

Better pads tolerate heat much better than stock pads. I have had every one of these brands, and trust me they will make your rotors glow red and return themselves like it never happened. You won't beleive me until you are hauling (axx) downhill with your XK and need to slow down and can't because your pads have glazed over.

EBC, HAWK, PBR, Brembo, Gransport, CarboTech, make real good pads that will perform Much better than anything you can buy over the counter. Tire rack has these.
 

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For squeaks, It is either the "squealer", which is a metal tab that hit the rotor to tell you it's time; or the pad is creating a frequency vibration on the rotor until the pressure over comes the sound. Most good parts stores carry "Brake Quiet" a thick paste that eliminates the high pitch frquency. It is applied to the back side of the pad and act as a harmonic dampner.

The squeal, if not the "Squealer tab", means nothing about brake quality or performance. You should hear some of the very expensive brake kits that I have installed on track cars. The squeals are very common on expensive racing pads. The softer, crappier organic pads tend not to squeal, because they do not tolerate heat as well as the metallic pads. It is a trade-off.
 

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I just took off my front wheel and noticed my pads looked great at 50,000 miles.

Anyway, did anybody notice that the front pads do not have the squeak indicator?

When the pads get worn the think piece of metal will hit the rotor at squeak, this will let you know the pads are worn.

I believe the rear pads have this, but not the front. This is a bad design since the rear pads might wear differently than the front pads.

So, don't assume your front pads will squeak when they get worn because they won't.
 
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