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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So this happened last night.
Still need to add fuses, grounds, wire my switches, run wire from fuse block to breaker to battery and shrink wrap as well as 300 ft of wire from lights to switches. LOL!
I was bummed that I had to extend the blue wire to the fuse block. Couldn't find a closer spot to mount it. Everything has been mounted to 1/8" ABS.

(4) 40 amp 5 wire relays
(4) 36 watt LED's
(1) 300 amp breaker
(4) switches
(1) 8 prong distribution block

Have some questions:
1. Can I run 2 lights to one switch with this setup?
2. Since these are 5 wire relays does the #87A (red) wire have to be connected along with the #30 (blue) wire? Or can I just leave it off?

Thanks for any input.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Well not much interest on this topic, but maybe this will come in helpful for someone down the road when they do a search.

Have power now to fuse block. All that is left to do is wire to switches (just waiting on my switch panel from Steel Armadillo to arrive) and wire up to lights as well as ground it all.
Going to have rear lights on one switch and side lights on another. Tried to keep this as clean as I could. Still not certain I like where I mounted the breaker switch. The engine bay is packed and it's already 100 degrees out. May just be a temp spot.
 

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Light it up

Nice job on the install I'm not going to do any drilling or mods to the interior ( wife's car). and my not knowing the answer to your question was just as large a reason.

Swanny
 

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Got it all finished. Just need to do some more shrink wrap and clean up the wires. Still have 3 unused switches as well as 2 relays available for future use.
It looks good AZJeep;

I was wondering why you mounted this all the way up by the fan?

Is this the breaker switch you were talking about?

I know it's close to the battery but I think you'd be better served mounting that to the driver's side firewall behind the battery somewhere.

I think it might be prone to getting damaged where you have it mounted right now.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I agree. Like I said. Probably a temp spot. When it cools down outside or when we finally move up
to Idaho which will probably come first. I will relocate the breaker.
Next up is replacing the passenger front door handle. Have had the replacement sitting on my desk for a couple of weeks. In a month or so I will be talking further with Natalie at Wam bumpers to finalize a front bumper. Then I'm done! Yeah right. :)
 

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Yeah, I agree. Like I said. Probably a temp spot. When it cools down outside or when we finally move up
to Idaho which will probably come first. I will relocate the breaker.
Next up is replacing the passenger front door handle. Have had the replacement sitting on my desk for a couple of weeks. In a month or so I will be talking further with Natalie at Wam bumpers to finalize a front bumper. Then I'm done! Yeah right. :)
The more you do, the more you will find other upgrades to take on.

It's an addiction.
 

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Really nice wiring - clean and easy to follow each wire from point to point.

Wish I could have answered your question - I'm really slow when it comes to electrical work. I can figure it out but I don't know the answers off the top of my head. Don't know why electrical is a roadblock for me - I can tear down an engine and rebuild it without much trouble but ask me to put in a switch for LED roof lights and I curl up in a ball and suck my thumb...

Well done!

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Really nice wiring - clean and easy to follow each wire from point to point.

Wish I could have answered your question - I'm really slow when it comes to electrical work. I can figure it out but I don't know the answers off the top of my head. Don't know why electrical is a roadblock for me - I can tear down an engine and rebuild it without much trouble but ask me to put in a switch for LED roof lights and I curl up in a ball and suck my thumb...

Well done!

Bob
I'm right there with you. One reason why I wanted to do this myself was to prove I could do it and learn something in the process. It was actually kind of fun.
 

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That's is a really good job. Looks awesome. I wish I could put lights up there, but a basket will have to come off for kayaking. So I guess I'll be without lights. Unless I put a plug in on the roof. Hmmm
Crap, now reading your post has got me adding things to my mod list. At least I have a good write up to use. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's is a really good job. Looks awesome. I wish I could put lights up there, but a basket will have to come off for kayaking. So I guess I'll be without lights. Unless I put a plug in on the roof. Hmmm
Crap, now reading your post has got me adding things to my mod list. At least I have a good write up to use. Thanks.
That's my problem. I get ideas from others and the list goes on and on. When I owned my 75 and 67 international travelalls I was constantly busy. Guess it is an addiction.
 

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Well not much interest on this topic, but maybe this will come in helpful for someone down the road when they do a search.

Have power now to fuse block. All that is left to do is wire to switches (just waiting on my switch panel from Steel Armadillo to arrive) and wire up to lights as well as ground it all.
Going to have rear lights on one switch and side lights on another. Tried to keep this as clean as I could. Still not certain I like where I mounted the breaker switch. The engine bay is packed and it's already 100 degrees out. May just be a temp spot.
I take it you have the 300 Amp circuit breaker before that wire goes through the firewall?

That wire through the firewall is the one place where I see concerns with your setup. Everything else looks great.

My first choice for running a high current wire (100 Amps or more) through a firewall or metal bulkhead is Moroso 74144. There's a black version, too, Moroso 74145. A distant second choice for that type of connection through a metal bulkhead is a serious rubber grommet in the hole, and generally, one or more layers of heat shrink tubing shrunk tight on the wire where it goes through the grommet, one or two layers of split loom tubing, with more heat shrink tubing holding the ends of the split loom tubing in place. You don't want that wire (the conductor in the middle) to come into contact with the metal of the firewall, ever, but especially not in a collision!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well not much interest on this topic, but maybe this will come in helpful for someone down the road when they do a search.

Have power now to fuse block. All that is left to do is wire to switches (just waiting on my switch panel from Steel Armadillo to arrive) and wire up to lights as well as ground it all.
Going to have rear lights on one switch and side lights on another. Tried to keep this as clean as I could. Still not certain I like where I mounted the breaker switch. The engine bay is packed and it's already 100 degrees out. May just be a temp spot.
I take it you have the 300 Amp circuit breaker before that wire goes through the firewall?

That wire through the firewall is the one place where I see concerns with your setup. Everything else looks great.

My first choice for running a high current wire (100 Amps or more) through a firewall or metal bulkhead is Moroso 74144. There's a black version, too, Moroso 74145. A distant second choice for that type of connection through a metal bulkhead is a serious rubber grommet in the hole, and generally, one or more layers of heat shrink tubing shrunk tight on the wire where it goes through the grommet, one or two layers of split loom tubing, with more heat shrink tubing holding the ends of the split loom tubing in place. You don't want that wire (the conductor in the middle) to come into contact with the metal of the firewall, ever, but especially not in a collision!
Thanks for the info.
Yes, it is a 300 amp breaker. The wire is actually running through rubber that is about 1/8" to 1/4" thick. It is not in contact of any metal at all. That would be asinine. I have no worries about that part. I felt like it was a good spot. Thanks for the info on the shrink wrap. I think I will definitely pull it back out and do that to the wire.
 
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