[Mspikes82]

Hey all,

This forum has been great. I've been picking up nuggets of wisdom ever since I bought my Commander, brand new in 2008. 5 years, and 103,000 miles later, it's still chugging along great. But here's my problem. The other day I was out filling up the tires and found that part of the valve stem broke off one of them in the process, leaving me unable to put any air in the tire (yes, I only used rubber stem covers).

I'm now riding on the spare, which I don't want to do for long. I went to a tire shop to find out about replacing it, and they told me that they'd put an aftermarket sensor on and program it for about $120 ($80 for the part, $40 for the labor)--but they're also pressuring me to buy a new tire, which I don't wanna do yet (I replaced my tires just a little over 2 years ago).

The dealer quoted me $230 for the repair.

I've gone online and found the entire part for $40 (TPMS and the stem), I've also found a repair kit that only includes the stem for something like $6. So here are my questions:

1. Is it possible to only replace the stem and not the entire sensor?

2. If this isn't possible, and I have to replace the entire sensor, is there an elaborate procedure to "program" it to my car that only someone with a special indicator can do? I have a 2008 model that only flashes a light at me to tell me that a tire is going low--it dosen't indicate which one, like newer models do.

Thanks for your help, and apologies in advance if this has already been answered, but I was finding it different to find a definitive one in other posts.

- M. Spikes

 

[jeep5253]

Hey all,

This forum has been great. I've been picking up nuggets of wisdom ever since I bought my Commander, brand new in 2008. 5 years, and 103,000 miles later, it's still chugging along great. But here's my problem. The other day I was out filling up the tires and found that part of the valve stem broke off one of them in the process, leaving me unable to put any air in the tire (yes, I only used rubber stem covers).

I'm now riding on the spare, which I don't want to do for long. I went to a tire shop to find out about replacing it, and they told me that they'd put an aftermarket sensor on and program it for about $120 ($80 for the part, $40 for the labor)--but they're also pressuring me to buy a new tire, which I don't wanna do yet (I replaced my tires just a little over 2 years ago).

The dealer quoted me $230 for the repair.

I've gone online and found the entire part for $40 (TPMS and the stem), I've also found a repair kit that only includes the stem for something like $6. So here are my questions:

1. Is it possible to only replace the stem and not the entire sensor?

2. If this isn't possible, and I have to replace the entire sensor, is there an elaborate procedure to "program" it to my car that only someone with a special indicator can do? I have a 2008 model that only flashes a light at me to tell me that a tire is going low--it dosen't indicate which one, like newer models do.

Thanks for your help, and apologies in advance if this has already been answered, but I was finding it different to find a definitive one in other posts.

- M. Spikes

.

So you've been mining the forum for 5 years and this is your first post ? No "Hi I'm here", pics, comments, or contributions in 5 years ? That's kinda' lame, don't you think ? The answers to your questions are on the forum. Time to do some mining.

.

 

[Mspikes82]

Jeep5243,

Thanks for the kind welcome to the forum. Just an FYI--there's a nice little company named Google that would bring me here when I searched for solutions to my problems, along with a number of other sites. Who would have known that a site called "Jeepcommander.com" would come up on so many Google searches of "Jeep Commander" + whatever issue I was searching for? It's like magic!

The reason I haven't joined is because I'm not a total Jeep enthusiast--just a guy who likes to tinker, and utilizes a multitude of sources when it comes to finding solutions, of which again, this forum--being part of a the free and open flow of information and ideas on the internet provides one of many.

I also stated in my post that I have searched through the posts on this issue, and haven't found a definitive answer to my questions, which is why I posted this one.

However, seeing that you are a senior member of this forum, and know proper etiquette for becoming a part of this community (which you have shown me so well in your first post), please point me in the direction of the proper way to do the "Hi, I'm here" thing.

Thanks for your help.

 

[USMC]

1. Is it possible to only replace the stem and not the entire sensor?
2. If this isn't possible, and I have to replace the entire sensor, is there an elaborate procedure to "program" it to my car .........

,........ and apologies in advance if this has already been answered, but I was finding it different to find a definitive one in other posts.
- M. Spikes

I'm not an expert on our TPMS's , but the good thing is if I accidentally steer you wrong someone will step in and educate us both.. LOL...

With that.

1) Most people will say the stem and sensor are all one component.

Here is a link to one parts diagram example >
http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showpost.php?p=87860&postcount=11

This member used to sell TPMS a few years ago. I don’t know if he still does or not, but you could PM him.

He also notes that the ones he was selling have serviceable stems. >

http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showpost.php?p=200058&postcount=1


2) No special procedures required after install, just be sure you get the correct part number for your year. Some say they may have different frequencies that they work off of. Also the common advice is make sure you use the plastic stem caps not metal ones.

Here is a link I had also with just some good TMPS info FYI. >

http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16166&highlight=TPMS+Valve+Stem


3) No need to apologize, we all work together helping one another with our common interest. You may also find different forums all have their own unique personalities. I'm not always great at searching and finding the information I'm looking for either on Google or searching a forum.


Anyways.. I hope this helps a little...and others please feel free to correct my mistakes !

 

[GeeEssFore]

Yep still am selling them at cost. PM me if interested.

 

[USMC]

Yep still am selling them at cost. PM me if interested.

Thanks for the update GeeEssFore ! We appreciate it.

Looks like we may have "lost" Mspikes82... he has not been on the forum since after he posted his reply and before you and I responded to him.

Sometime, when I get time, I will be selling my factory 18" chrome clad w/o TMPSs.

I'll make sure any prospective buyers are aware of your offer if they need TMPSs.

 

[Mspikes82]

TPMS Problem Solved! (w/pictures)

Thanks to USMC and GeeEssFore for the info. I started looking around for more info on the TPMS problem that I had, and was still a little baffled. It's amazing how many solutions there are for one problem, and sometimes you have to experiment to get to the right one. Any who, I finally got the whole thing fixed for just $33 instead of the $230 that the dealer wanted to charge me. Here's a detailed explanation to what I did for those that might have this same issue.

First off, I haven't figured out how to put my car's info in my signature so, as an FYI, I have a 2008 Jeep Commander Sport, 3.6L V6, 4WD, with the stock rims (not aluminum--I think).

Here was the initial issue:
Tire stem (not the core, as originally thought) broken.

After more extensive searching online, I deduced that the problem had to only be with the stem and not the sensor, as they are two separate parts. Searching on Amazon, I came up with the thought that Schrader's service packs must be what I need.

The Stem @ $4.17​

Other Service Parts @ $4.05​

Before I ordered the parts, I went to a local tire repair shop to ask them to take the tire off of the rim so that I could remove the sensor and double check the parts. This $5 solution showed me that the stem could be removed from the sensor and replaced.

(The picture below shows the stem (silver) attached to the sensor (grey), after being removed with the large nut and rubber washer on the left.)

After that, I ordered the parts, which arrived 2 days later.

First, I installed the new core (comes in the service pack) into the new stem with a Tire Valve Stem Core Tool (this tool does not come with the parts, but you can get easily at any local auto parts store for around $6)

This core is only half-way in the stem… use the tool to screw it down into the stem.

Don't over tighten the core, as it will break VERY easily, and you probably will not be able to get it out.

Next, I took the stem and threaded it back through the sensor (it will only go in one way). Then, I attached the non-threaded nut over the top of the new stem, and turned it until the flat ends fit into top of the sensor snugly (there's a small arrow pointing DOWNWARDS that should line up with a small line on the sensor as shown below).

Next, place the rubber washer into the large attachment nut (both in the service kit), so that the smaller end of the rubber washer fits into the nut.

Thread the new stem, attached to the sensor through the hole in the tire rim, and then place the large nut over the stem with the rubber washer side downwards, and hand tighten it to begin attaching it to the threads on the stem.

This is the view from the top once you get it on there.

Using a socket wrench and a 12mm bit, carefully tighten the large nut.

I then took the tire and the rim back to my local shop, who charged me $20 to re-attach them, fill it, and put it back on my car.

From this point, since I was using the sensor that was already on my car, I didn't need to worry about re-programming it. I drove for less than a minute, and the low tire light went off.

My suggestion is that if you get an entirely new sensor for some odd reason--try the 15 minute driving test (drive the car over 25mph for 15 minutes) before someone tries to convince you that you need to re-program the things. I've seen many sensors say that they don't need to be re-programmed.

Total cost: $25 for labor, $8.22 for parts. :respect:

 

[USMC]

Mspikes82, Great research, writeup, how to photos, and links !!!

I will be picking up a couple of these kits when I get home the next time, as backup ,.. I could easily damage more than one on a Wheeling trip with my luck ( I once had 3 flat tires on a short 250 mile road trip LoL ). The price and size are worth it.

Thanks Mspikes82 for your post, besides saving yourself a considerable amount of money you have conceivably saved many more Commander owners from heartache and excessive costs !

 

[JDD]

Thanks Mspikes82, this is good info!

 

[vjsimone]

Thanks to USMC and GeeEssFore for the info. I started looking around for more info on the TPMS problem that I had, and was still a little baffled. It's amazing how many solutions there are for one problem, and sometimes you have to experiment to get to the right one. Any who, I finally got the whole thing fixed for just $33 instead of the $230 that the dealer wanted to charge me. Here's a detailed explanation to what I did for those that might have this same issue.

First off, I haven't figured out how to put my car's info in my signature so, as an FYI, I have a 2008 Jeep Commander Sport, 3.6L V6, 4WD, with the stock rims (not aluminum--I think).

Here was the initial issue:
Tire stem (not the core, as originally thought) broken.

After more extensive searching online, I deduced that the problem had to only be with the stem and not the sensor, as they are two separate parts. Searching on Amazon, I came up with the thought that Schrader's service packs must be what I need.

The Stem @ $4.17​

Other Service Parts @ $4.05​

Before I ordered the parts, I went to a local tire repair shop to ask them to take the tire off of the rim so that I could remove the sensor and double check the parts. This $5 solution showed me that the stem could be removed from the sensor and replaced.

(The picture below shows the stem (silver) attached to the sensor (grey), after being removed with the large nut and rubber washer on the left.)

After that, I ordered the parts, which arrived 2 days later.

First, I installed the new core (comes in the service pack) into the new stem with a Tire Valve Stem Core Tool (this tool does not come with the parts, but you can get easily at any local auto parts store for around $6)

This core is only half-way in the stem… use the tool to screw it down into the stem.

Don't over tighten the core, as it will break VERY easily, and you probably will not be able to get it out.

Next, I took the stem and threaded it back through the sensor (it will only go in one way). Then, I attached the non-threaded nut over the top of the new stem, and turned it until the flat ends fit into top of the sensor snugly (there's a small arrow pointing DOWNWARDS that should line up with a small line on the sensor as shown below).

Next, place the rubber washer into the large attachment nut (both in the service kit), so that the smaller end of the rubber washer fits into the nut.

Thread the new stem, attached to the sensor through the hole in the tire rim, and then place the large nut over the stem with the rubber washer side downwards, and hand tighten it to begin attaching it to the threads on the stem.

This is the view from the top once you get it on there.

Using a socket wrench and a 12mm bit, carefully tighten the large nut.

I then took the tire and the rim back to my local shop, who charged me $20 to re-attach them, fill it, and put it back on my car.

From this point, since I was using the sensor that was already on my car, I didn't need to worry about re-programming it. I drove for less than a minute, and the low tire light went off.

My suggestion is that if you get an entirely new sensor for some odd reason--try the 15 minute driving test (drive the car over 25mph for 15 minutes) before someone tries to convince you that you need to re-program the things. I've seen many sensors say that they don't need to be re-programmed.

Total cost: $25 for labor, $8.22 for parts. :respect:

Great post!
FYI; I replaced the 5 TPMSensors in my 2008 Overland W/Premium TPMS system (W/Spare Tire Sensor). Purchased the Denso 550-2501 as recommended by another forum member. $35. each, this model has the rubber valve stem (Chrysler is using this style now).

My local tire guy installed these sensors, they plugged and played, the sensor ID’s were read by the vehicle TPMS system. My tire guy programmed the Spare Tire Sensor into the WCM (Wireless Control Module).

A later discussion with a dealer service dept; they stated that I could have temporarily mounted the spare tire and the system would have read that sensor ID into the WCM, adding the 5th sensor ID into memory. This system also allows the spare tire to be part of a tire rotation, the TPMS system tracks the location of the sensors for proper location display in the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC).

Note; New sensors don’t seem to come with the ID Number displayed on the device like the old ones, most tire shops have a device the reads the sensor ID Number these days. In my case, a sensor reader may not have been necessary.

It seems that the Sensor needs to be under pressure to transmit data.
Also it is recommended to replace the seal kit anytime a sensor is removed from the rim. If you have a brass valve in the stem replace it with a stainless, the brass valve may cause corrosion. Use a rubber cap -vs- a metal cap to avoid corrosion.

The reason I went down this rabbit hole was due to a trade in whereas I wanted to keep my new tires/rims and the dealership swapped the sensors and did not replace the seals, and pinched two of the old seals. When I took it back to be fixed, they stated the two sensors were defective and needed to be replaced. $90. each, $150 labor/balancing. At this point, I ordered the new sensors and took them to my tire guy.

Total incompetence by the dealership, I took the old sensors back to the dealership and showed them their tire man’s screw-up. He is the lowest paid guy in the service shop I guess. This is when I also found out they didn’t swap the spare tire in the trade, so I had an 18” spare & 17” on the car. Another screw-up by their shop.

I guess I could have gotten another two years or so out of my original sensors (10 year battery life span), if the dealership tire man had not screwed the pouch. In hindsight, smarter now, I would have replaced the Sensors when I bought my new tires.

https://www.densoproducts.com/Automotive-DensoProducts-l1351.aspx

 

[Mongo]

Before TPMS, every time you replaced the tires, you replaced the valve stems as well. You should do the same thing with TPMS, just the valve stem hardware NOT the sensor, unless you are near the end of the battery life.

I "think" the OEM sensors quote an 8 year battery life, some of the aftermarket sensors, which it seems Chrysler/FCA has switched to the same design, are quoting a 10 year battery life. Battery life can vary drastically than the spec, depending on conditions, so don't be surprised if at least one goes dead well before the 8 or 10 year spec.

Last time I changed tires, I replaced all the hardware on the valve stem, but kept the original valve stem. In retrospect, I should have replaced the stem itself as well. The original valve stems were already corroded when I replaced the hardware at 80k miles and I re-used them. Recently I had a sensor go bad and at replacing it a 135k miles, the new hardware 55k miles ago was so corroded to the original valve stem I destroyed everything trying to get it out, I literally had to cut the original valve stem out, after I broke the sensor off the stem (good thing I had a new sensor).

When replacing the sensor, get the new type, either OEM or aftermarket that attach to a rubber valve stem. Its still a metal core inside a thick rubber stem, but it doesn't corrode and will be much easier to remove and replace in the future with new tires.

Oh, and the skipping of tire balancing after replacing the sensor. Sure, you can replace the sensor with only breaking one bead and NOT changing the relative position between tire and wheel. BUT, keep in mind the sensor and/or valve stem could weigh a different weight than the original. I know for a fact the new type of sensor with the rubber stems are much lighter than the earlier sensors with the metal stems. When I replaced by sensor with a new aftermarket sensor, I only broke one bead, the relative position of the tire/wheel did NOT change, and when I went to balance I had to take a lot of weights off the sensor side of the wheel and add weight to the opposite side.