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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For now this is going to be a quick and dirty thread to cover some ground on the lift I just put on my 07 Commander. Later on when I have more time I'll do some editing to make it more in depth.

I've owned my Commander for a little over a year and have been doing some improvements as time and cash allowed. (The Jeep is my DD and I've got a project car for having fun.) At the time of this install the Jeep is at 126k miles, it seemed very well cared for and babied - so the lift seemed like an easy project for a seasoned wrenchead like myself.

Disassembly went very smooth except for the lower strut to control arm bolt... Having the lift and new Bilsteins I wanted to take it fully apart to put it together properly. This is where the trouble came as the Jeep has lived 126k in Iowa and Iowa winters. The lower bolts were totally seized on each side, so here's how I had to get them out:

Passenger side:


Driver:


This lead me to purchasing new bolts and nuts from the dealership and Amazon Priming some Moog lower control arm bushings also.

Overall this ended up taking way too long, somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 days of down time, which meant 12 days of driving the project car as the DD... but aside from weekends I don't have much time and had to wait for parts (and work around a career change).

On to the results. First pic is with 1.5" spacers and 265/70/17s on factory suspension. Rub city at anything over 3/4 of a steering wheel rotation on anything less than flat pavement.



edit: took a fresh photo in an attempt to gain a better frame of reference.


And now for the first pic this morning after putting a long day in yesterday.



I'm super stoked with the look and the ride is still awesome. It looks like I gained way more than the 2" lift with the addition of the Bilsteins. Unfortunately I forgot to measure the ground to fender lip before the lift, but will get numbers as stuff settles in. Right after the lift with no driving (worthless number) it was 37.5" front and 36.5" rear. After a 5ish mile round trip this morning it has settled to around 36.5 front and rear, as I'm planning on some towing duty (project car) Monroe load levelers will be here Tuesday to help that out.
 

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Thanks for the pics and write up! Getting ready to put the RC lift on my '07 this week. Just finished a complete 4 wheel brake job, rear shocks(EASY), and front sway bar end links while the front rotors were off.

While looking around the front end to see how getting the lift and new front struts on would be, I noticed the lower strut fork bushings are pretty shot. Do you think it would be easier to just get new lower control arms for the front? They have all new bushings already installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Depends on your definition of easy. You'll still have to fight the lower mount bolt if you intend to replace bushings or the whole control arm. For me it was easier to spend extra time in the garage than it was to hit up the ole piggy bank for another $300 - $400.

I put hours into the 10 lb sledge trying to break my bolts out of the bushings and finally ended up on the cut and replace method. It kind of sucked, but I enjoy the piece of mind of new parts, self installed.
 

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Probably not easy either way I suppose. Couldn't the head of the bolt and the nut be cut off from the start, torch out the rubber part of bushing, then sawzall the outer edge of bushing? Trying to form a game plan before I start.
 

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Do you have the pinch weld mod done?
 

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I tried installing my rc 2inch lift yesterday, but that bottom strut bolt had another agenda. That sucker would not come off. Did some research last night and found out this is a common issue. I'm going to try another method mentioned by a member here

"Like I said, just take off the tie rod and sway bar link. Then unbolt the upper ball joint from the knuckle and then unbolt the upper control arm. This will allow you to just swing the strut forward and put the spacer on."

I hope this works..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's an update after about a week of daily driving and an alignment. Everything settled, putting the front at 37" from the ground to the bottom of the fender flare @ the center of the wheel - and the rear at 36.5". Somewhere around the middle of the week I tossed a set of Monroe Load Levelers on the back which brought the rear up to 37" making the Jeep look nice and level.

How deep one wants to get, or how varied your tool selection happens to be is what I'd use to dictate replacing the LCAs or just hacking the bolt off and pressing the bushing out. Luckily I've got a pretty well equipped shop at home, so I wasn't worried about some extra elbow grease and found that route preferable to spending another $300 for LCAs.

I'm super happy with how everything turned out, the Jeep is still the best riding vehicle on the property which is the main reason I went with a spacer lift. I've got a feeling even the medium duty OME set is likely a stiffer spring than stock. If I want to do some hardcore wheeling or mud throwing I've got a 77 Chevy with 35s and about 300hp on tap, so the Jeep doesn't need to carry the burden of being the DD and the tough guy.
 

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Here's an update after about a week of daily driving and an alignment. Everything settled, putting the front at 37" from the ground to the bottom of the fender flare @ the center of the wheel - and the rear at 36.5". Somewhere around the middle of the week I tossed a set of Monroe Load Levelers on the back which brought the rear up to 37" making the Jeep look nice and level.

How deep one wants to get, or how varied your tool selection happens to be is what I'd use to dictate replacing the LCAs or just hacking the bolt off and pressing the bushing out. Luckily I've got a pretty well equipped shop at home, so I wasn't worried about some extra elbow grease and found that route preferable to spending another $300 for LCAs.

I'm super happy with how everything turned out, the Jeep is still the best riding vehicle on the property which is the main reason I went with a spacer lift. I've got a feeling even the medium duty OME set is likely a stiffer spring than stock. If I want to do some hardcore wheeling or mud throwing I've got a 77 Chevy with 35s and about 300hp on tap, so the Jeep doesn't need to carry the burden of being the DD and the tough guy.
Excited about this thread. This is exactly what I'm looking for, and planning on. :drink4:

My understanding is that 245/75/17's fit stock, this is plenty of tire for me on the daily family hauler, but the darn thing still looks so low. Interestingly enough I plan to run Falken Wildpeaks as well.

The wife doesnt want me to mess with the ride any :notallthere: so OME is out.

Shocks will need to be replaced at some point. Might as gain 2" with the 5100's up front, the MLL's (price is right) are planned and another few inches with a spacer lift. :redblob:
 

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I'm currently having the same issue with the strut assembly to lower control arm bushing mount. It is frozen in there. I'm thinking I'm just going to cut it out and replace the bushing and bolt.

Seems like a common problem and causes a lot of extra work. But it's better to fix it right. Right?
 

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I'm currently having the same issue with the strut assembly to lower control arm bushing mount. It is frozen in there. I'm thinking I'm just going to cut it out and replace the bushing and bolt.

Seems like a common problem and causes a lot of extra work. But it's better to fix it right. Right?

This just happened to me last month when I tried changing my struts. The lower strut mount bolt was frozen. I cursed my jeep out. I decided to replace both lower control arms and bought all new bolts.



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