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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today during an oil change, I noticed some spot rusting that has started on the oil pan of our 2006 4.7L. I live in the snow/salt belt, so normally I wouldn't be concerned, but this seems like more than just surface rust to me. A couple spots are bubbling. It hasn't been that salty this winter...

I'm concerned this may have some relation to acidic oil? Not sure. Let me know what you guys think. I've been doing Mobil 1 oil changes with the stock filters every 5k since we purchased the vehicle w/36k miles. It now has 90k. My wife is the primary driver. The vehicle is driven according to the severe duty schedule in that she makes a lot of short trips- on a daily basis. Probably 80% are short trips. 5k miles takes about 5 months. So I guess I'm wondering if condensation is not burning out consistently. That is my hypothesis. Not great for the engine. Either way (whether it is acid/water related or simply surface rust and I'm making this out to be bigger than it is) I'm planning on installing a new pan in the early spring. Maybe I should adhere to every 3 months instead of going by miles..

Today I switched over to Amsoil signature series 5W-30 fully synthetic from the Mobil 1 synthetic.







Thanks in advance
 

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My pan looks just as nasty......I too am up in the salt belt.
If it was rust through, there would be corresponding seepage.....as you have noted, there is none.

I think it is nothing more than a cheezy paint job....No primer or anything, so it will delaminate over a rather short time.
The continual heat/cool cycles add to the problem as the paint cracks due to expansion and contraction of the metal.

This is the downside of a leak free vehicle....LOL. I remember years back Oldsmobile V-8's were exceptionally dry engines and the ones that made ten or more years frequently did rust their pans out.
And, yes, they did begin to stain leak out from the bubbled areas.

Since these are still considered young vehicles and the rust is minor in nature, this spring I intend to just scrape off the lifted paint and shoot it with rustoleum.
This might become part of my springtime, undo winter things to do proceedure.

As far as the corrosion from the inside out thoughts......I think the pan would have to be full of water for several years before it actually succeeded in a actual rustout.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Rob. I guess I just sort of freaked out a little about it, and then after posting realized for that to happen it would be an anomaly and I was just over thinking it.

I still think I might replace the pan in the spring, though, as long as it's not a huge job. The one big spot on the corner next to the drain is bubbling up pretty good and I think a quick fix would only last a year or two before it was right back where it is now. When I pushed on it lightly, it seemed a bit "soft". Like I said, we have 90k now and my goal is 200k+ for the vehicle (we're on the Dave Ramsey plan..). If I buy a new one, I'll probably add paint or even a powder coat. I've found them from online Jeep dealers for just a tad over $100.

The hard lines on the steering rack also look like they're starting to rust out. I'm sure they don't sell those apart from an entirely new steering rack, so I'll probably make up some lines.

The rest of the vehicle is very good. We didn't have any undercoating added when we bought it. I am very careful about keeping the salt off. It won't go more than a day or two with salt on/under it. :thumbsup:
 

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Regarding the lines on the rack....mine look the same as well....till I saw it happening.
They have a rather good wall thickness though and my thoughts regarding severe rust are about the same....ten years without prevention.
The oil pan metal is about double the body sheet metal thickness.
I think the body is 24ga. H.S.L.A. (High Strenth Low Alloy for those wondering) whereas the pan is 16 or 18ga mild sheet steel.....hence the propensity for corrosion.

I spray a product called Boshield on the lines and aluminum parts.....heck, I'm lieing, I spray it all over the underbody....anywhere there are panels overlapping I drown the area.
The thing drips for a week.

Boshield is a product, developed by Boeing Aircraft, to stop corrosion between dissimilar metals and is usually found in Marine supply stores.
This, because it is a very good salt blocker.
Not cheap....around twenty bucks a can.....goes on like penetrating oil but after a day or so dries and leaves a transparent coating behind.....but not gooey.
Works well as a lubricant as well.

I generally pressure wash the bottomside every spring and a day or two later I use this product.

I 've got a rustfree 96 Blazer that is testimony to its effectivness.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Regarding the lines on the rack....mine look the same as well....till I saw it happening.
They have a rather good wall thickness though and my thoughts regarding severe rust are about the same....ten years without prevention.
The oil pan metal is about double the body sheet metal thickness.
I think the body is 24ga. H.S.L.A. (High Strenth Low Alloy for those wondering) whereas the pan is 16 or 18ga mild sheet steel.....hence the propensity for corrosion.

I spray a product called Boshield on the lines and aluminum parts.....heck, I'm lieing, I spray it all over the underbody....anywhere there are panels overlapping I drown the area.
The thing drips for a week.

Boshield is a product, developed by Boeing Aircraft, to stop corrosion between dissimilar metals and is usually found in Marine supply stores.
This, because it is a very good salt blocker.
Not cheap....around twenty bucks a can.....goes on like penetrating oil but after a day or so dries and leaves a transparent coating behind.....but not gooey.
Works well as a lubricant as well.

I generally pressure wash the bottomside every spring and a day or two later I use this product.

I 've got a rustfree 96 Blazer that is testimony to its effectivness.

Rob
I'll check it out. So you apply it every year? I'm assuming the pressure washing is to rid of any dirt, but what if there are small areas of rust. I have an abrasive blaster- would you recommend blasting the rust off and then applying this? I generally don't like the idea of spraying anything over already rusted areas..
 

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I found that it arrests the spots that show corrosion and just spray over it.
Moniter it, of course, but it seems to halt the progress.

I would not recommend a abrasive cleaning for fear of compromising the anti-corrosion coatings that are undamaged.
The pressure washing is to remove dirt and whatever salt may remain.

I, like you, rinse the undercarrage about once a week as long as the ambient temperature will be above freezing for at least 24 hours and have found, once it dries, salt leaching out of the seams the next day.....very depressing, but a fact of life in the snow belt.
But, if you don't,(rinse) you already know what it'll look like when it is approaching ten years of winters......gloom.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #12
More than similar.....It has properties that sound the same as I described.

Good find!

Rob
1 gallon around $40, good for three under body applications. I might try one of these next fall, just too bad I didn't know about them a few years ago when we acquired the vehicle. Oh well, like I said the underside is still very good, and now this will help preserve it to the 200k+ mark, I hope. Thanks again :thumbsup:
 

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good post just looked at my underbody today when I noticed my spare missing!
was just going to post some questions. Might just do the rustoleum as well. Damn salt!
 

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I always rub the excess oil on my pan when changing it, as for the underbody I paint it once a year with primer and than i sand and prim again than I rustoleum the whole thing 3 coats it looks brand new underneath and I live in MN
 

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May not be just surface rust.

My brother-in-law had the same problem, i said it was because he bought a jeep,(sorry i'm a chevy guy) but now I am going to replace an oil pan that is leaking almost a quart a day from a hole on the front passenger side near the drain plug! Is this a shadetree with chevy skills fix, or do i need to tell him he needs a dealer visit? Could save him $500 and keep one more jeep one the road!
 

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I had my 2006 Commander (4.7L engine, 159,225 miles) in the local dealership today for a transmission fluid replacement (w/2 filters.)

They tell me I've got a rusty oil pan that is seeping oil....$913 to replace it (!!!) with most of the expense in getting to the pan; the axle and the steering column apparently must be moved out of the way, will take 6.5 hours...gonna get some second opinions but may have more of a tale to tell soon...sheesh!

I'm in Dearborn, MI, lots of cold and salt around here so I guess I shouldn't be shocked at near 8-year-old vehicle needing this part, as I've never thought to rustproof the pan...

Any thoughts?

tnx.

Craig
 

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That's crazy. I'm so glad I can do all that stuff myself!
 

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Ummm, its an oil pan, I don't see the need to replace it unless its leaking. I'd wash it thoroughly to get the salt out, wire brush the rust spots, maybe give the spots a tap with a ball peen hammer for piece of mind, if the hammer doesn't bust through and cause a leak, then just spray the reasonably cleaned up spots with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, paint a black top coat if you want, but its NOT necessary. I've used this on other rust spots on cars and its has stopped the rust from growing and stays on the metal.

One note, the Rusteoleum Rusty Metal Primer does warn it needs a rusty surface to adhere to, its active ingredients (fish oil) need the rust to draw the fish oil toward it, if you use it on clean metal, the fish oil will come to the surface and lift off the the top coat. Although for underbody, I don't even bother top coating it and it stays just fine. (Some primers are designed for a top coat, without a top coat of paint, they're porous and let moisture in to the metal.) so you don't want to do this with all primers.
 

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Mongo, I hear you -- but the dealer insisted I was already having leakage through the metal, now sadly confirmed by the guys at my oil change place who cleaned up the rustiest area on the bottom of the pan and said they could then see oil seeping through the metal almost immediately.

I feared they were right when I crawled around under the Jeep last night and saw what wretched shape the pan is in -- we're talking Craters of the Moon appearance. I shot iPhone pics of it if anyone's interested...

The 'good' news is that the independent shops in my area (Detroit/Dearborn) want $600 not $900 to replace the pan, confirming it's mostly getting stuff out of the way that jacks up the labor costs...

Can't think of a workaround here, probably going to get the work done next week..last minute suggestions welcome!

tnx.

Craig
 
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