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Discussion Starter #1
Perhaps NOT a "Performance" Mod, but I'm hoping the knowledge from this forum would be best to help advise me.

I'm considering installing Autometer Electric Gauges, specifically Volt, Oil Pressure and Trans Temp Gauge.

Any advice for mounting the senders? Volt, obviously does NOT have a sender. This is the 3.7L V6 AWD btw.

Oil Pressure, I want to keep the switch unit for the Idiot Light (the wife will drive this a lot as well). On the 3.7, it looks danger close to the accessory belt, NOT a lot of room to mount a plumbing "T" in there for both sensors. Is there another port plugged on the 3.7L V6 to install the Oil Pressure Sending Unit?

Trans Temp, those cooling lines attaching hardware looks rather unique, I don't think I want to improvise some sort of splice into them to install the temp sensor. I'm guessing my best option is to drill and tap the trans pan and install the temp sensor in the pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just for info, I've done a little research, with the FSM and looking at my own jeep.

Oil Pressure: There appears to be a plug with an allen head socket in it right at the journal leading to the oil filter. Why they tapped this journal to add the low oil pressure swith to put on the front, over top the oil filter, instead of just putting the sensor on the end of the journal at the side of the engine, I'll never know. But I'm going to try to pull that plug and replace it with a bushing to adapt the gauge sending unit to it.

Trans Temp: A 3/8" wrench fits smoothly over the trans cooler lines, (NAG1/W5A580), with very little wiggle room, so they should be close enough to 3/8" O.D. to use the Autometer Temp Sender Manifold with compression fittings. Just need to figure out which line is output and which is return.

Which trans cooler line is Output and which is Return? Since the lines are on opposites side of the trans, just Driver Side or Passenger Side will do for a good answer.

When I install these, I'll do a write up and let everyone know how it went.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks jeep5253, but no indication in the link which line is output and which is return in that thread.

Anyone know, for the NAG1/W5A580, which tranny cooler line is output and which is return, as in driver/passenger side of the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok, for Cooler Lines on the NAG1 Transmission, I still have NOT found a definitive source that states which line is out/in.

BUT, the Driver side fitting on the case has a big arrow cast into the bulge for the fitting, pointing outward. The Passenger side of the case has a smaller arrow pointed inward. The Lines on the Driver side, when they meet and run together, run over top of the lines on passenger side, typically the output is routed higher than the return. So, it really looks like a good bet the Driver side is the output.

BUT, its all a Moot Point now. On further examination, it really appears there is NOT enough room to fit a temp sensor manifold into the output line, without fabricating a new line. Perhaps on the lines past the thermostat, but then I won't be getting true temps until the thermostat opens. The one section of line straight enough, would push the temp sensor manifold right up against the catalytic converter, NOT GOOD. So, I've scrapped that idea and will be fitting the sensor into the trans pan.

Anyone interested in purchasing a New, opened but unused Autometer Sender Manifold?

Oil Pressure Sender, I finished fitting it last night. On the driver side of the engine block, just behind the oil filter is a recessed plug, capping an oil galley from the oil filter. It is covered by the plastic spill pan bolted around the oil filter. You'll have to cut away a portion of the plastic spill pan to fit the sender.

The plug for the oil galley is recessed, no bolt head, its a 3/8" hex head socket in the plug, there is casting portions that extend around the opening that interfer with using a typical adapter bushing, the bolt head hits the extended parts of the casting preventing you from tightening the bushing/adapter all the way down.

I got a 2" steel pipe and a 90° adapter to tighten down on the other end, that will fit and there is room to tighten in the sender held off about 1.5" from the block, its right beside the oil filter.

The threads are 1/2" NPT, the Autometer Sender is 1/8" NPT threads. So it was a 2" steel pipe with 1/2" NPT threads on both ends, tightened into the oil galley on the block, a 90° steel adapter with 1/2" NPT one side, and 1/4" theads on the other, that neck the fitting down and turn it 90° forward, and then I used the Autometer supplied bushing/adapter to neck it down from 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT for the Sender.

Of course if you can find a 90° Fitting/Adapter that Necks down from 1/2" NPT to 1/8" NPT, that would be even better, less thread joints mean less chance of leaks, I just couldn't find one with that big of a difference, so I had to improvise a bit.

Remember to use Permatex Hi-Temp Thread Sealant. I have these senders eventually leak, all the time no matter what I used, until I tried Permatex Hi-Temp Thread Sealant, it works better than anything I've tried and won't leak for years.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I finished installing the Trans Temp Sender this weekend, and finished up all the wiring, now all 3 of my gauges are working.

I got trans fluid (AMSOIL Synthetic ATF) and filter (Federated w/ new Gasket) because I will need to drop the pan. I got an universal trans pan drain kit, with a drain plug the same size as the sender.

On test fitting the sender to the drain, I found its straight threads and NOT NPT, I happened to have a 1/8" NPT tap, so I retapped the threads for NPT, as well I needed to drill out the rest of the opening, it didn't fit the sender perfect.

So did a fluid/filter changed on the trans, just threw in installing the drain/sender in the pan in the middle. The rear of the pan on the driver's side has the most space, the rest of the pan comes close to the valve body that extends down out of the trans and into the pan, the rear, driver's side corner has the shifter and more space to fit that drain that will extend into the interior of the pan. Drilled the hole in the pan, made sure to center the hole using the gasket (nylon ring) and that the gasket was on a flat surface of the side of the pan and laid flat with no gaps, then used a center punch to guide the drill bit. Remember to file down the burrs on the drill hole before assembling. Use a Voltmeter to check continuity, the gaskets don't conduct electricity, some of these drain kits might NOT make good metal to metal contact on the pan.

I didn't get any continuity, so I fitted a ground wire the base of the sender, of course when I tightened down the sender, it tightened the drain kit a bit and that was enough to make the metal to metal contact and I got continuity, since the ground wire was already made and installed, I kept it. The senders are very sensative to resistance, and a less than perfect ground will make them less accurate.

One note for the NAG1 trans, remember you'll need the special tool to measure fluid level, also have to measure trans temp, BUT installing this gauge does that. I measured the fluid I collected when draining, figured I spilled a few oz on the floor, it came out to near perfect 4 QTS, although the FSM says you'll drain 7.4 QTS and to use 7.4QTS to fill, DO NOT, measure how much you drained and replace how much you drained and work from there. Also, when you first fill and have NOT run the trans, the fluid level will be high, you have to circulate the fluid running the trans before it will settle down to the proper level.

4Qts put right at the proper level, after changing fluid/filter. Max Capacity, according to the FSM is 8.55 QTS, so you only change half the fluid when just dropping the pan.
 
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