If you have the experience to make that, you probably know better than I.
But I have a table I finished myself 20 years ago, heavily used, still looks new and amazing. I did about 6 coats of "Satin" Poly, each coat had 24 hours of drying time, and buffed with ultra-fine steel wool, and wiped down with mineral spirits before the next coat.
It's hard to tell there is a plastic shell on the table at all, and it is so smooth to the touch and just the slightest texture from the grain of the wood that is still there.
That's exactly what I'm doing. That pic is before 3 coats of sanding sealer with 0000 wool in between each coat. Now moving onto the stain and and poly. Although a friend of mine is telling me to use gymnasium finish instead of the gloss phase of the poly.
It may be personal preference, but if you're buffing the satin poly, it is still going to have plenty of sheen. If you use gloss poly and buff inbetween it is going to be a very, very glassy, encased in plastic appearance to it.
Some like that, I don't, that is why I go with Satin, remember Satin is NOT flat or matte, its somewhere between that and glossy. It can be super smooth, even shiny in the right light, but won't have that mirror/glass like finish. Of course if you want the mirror/glass finish, then gloss is the way to go.
I'll put it another way, and I probably have less experience than you, my table with lots of coats of buffed satin poly, at many angles look like just the wood buffed smooth and shiny, other angles and light, you can tell there is a plastic coat, but it doesn't take away from the wood, the wood grabs the attention, NOT the thick plastic encasing coat.
Thanks for the info I definitely dont want a mirror finish I was going to do the satin first so I'll probably stop there. I'm just trying to mathc the rest of the wood interior as best as I can. Looks like I'll have an extra one I'd be looking to sell if anyone is interested. I started with 2 thinking one would be a test piece but it came out the way I wanted.