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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
alright so i know its out there and i have read and read through tons of threads but...im going to ask anyways just to clear my brain and get some answers.

i have a 2007 4.7L with the rough country spacer lift. shocks/struts are stock and i just rolled over 83k miles. they aren't actually going bad that i can tell. no ride problems, no noises. but i em looking for an increase in ride quality like most. from what i can understand, it looks like i can benefit increased ride height/quality buy going with particular shocks??? em i right?

i em looking to increase travel just a bit and wouldn't mind another 1in of lift. but I'm a little confused. I'm seeing a lot of posts referring to the ford f150 load levelers and the blistein 5100's. which are for rear and which are for front? do i benefit from combo'ing the brands for front and back or can i be confident with the miss match combo that I'm referring too?

my jeep sees a lot of everything, i mainly ride my motorcycles during the week but the jeep sometimes sees commute duty. i own property in the county and i regularly play off road, nothing hard just putting around having fun. but would like to increase the fun benefit from better shocks.

I'm sure i can find them but part numbers and a great link on where to purchase them online would be awesome. I'm pretty sure id be installing myself with the help of buddies. my friend is a diesel mechanic and has been for 20+ years and knows his way around hot rods and cars alike. and has the tools.

was also looking at rustys spacers up front....?? not horribly sure of these. could i use these with my existing lift along with new shocks up front or would it be one or the other kind of thing?

sorry for going on an on, just want to get everything clarified. I'm particular about my cars and like to do them right the first time.



cheers guys

707



what good are threads without pictures anyways
 

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Discussion Starter #2
right after i got tires and lift...

 

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Very nice XK.

The Monroe Load levellers will make the back end feel more stiff. If you tow a lot or load down the rear often I would consider that an option. Otherwise I wouldn't go that route personally.

The other issue that people have with that shock is that the rubber sleeve that protects the shock body from the spring (the unique part of this "shock") wears down and/or slips and the spring rattles against the shock body. This can be alleviated by using an adhesive or and/or more durable rubber in it's place.

You can also gain additional height in the rear by stacking more spring insulators. I have gone this route personally. I used 2 additional spring insulators on each side on top of the factory ones. Going with a longer rear shock will allow more rear droop with your lift, since ATM the factory shock is likely limiting droop. This will improve ride quality.

Bilstein makes a 0-1.5" lift 5100 rear shock and a 1.5-3" lift rear shock. I'd consider the longer one if you do go beyond your current lift in the rear.

In the front longer shocks are not necessary due to your particular lift.


What is your measurement between the center of your axle and your fender lip @ your current height? A strut spacer may be a possible solution for additional height in the front.

5100 "struts" (the front shocks) start @ a minimum of .75" increased height, and are adjustable for 1.5" and 2" as well, but if you use these with your current lift you will likely take your suspension beyond usable angles, and have contact in several places.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/bilstein-5100-series-strut-1530603/index10.html#post18864209

RC lift and 5100's are a no go. I tried, that setup has way too much down travel.


CV's boots rub on knuckle, spring seat hits knuckle and it looked like the steering tie rods bind at full droop. I drove it to and from the shop to get my tires mounted. It sat right at 23", but at full droop it looked expensive with all the contact and that's with the JBA arms. It would work with limit straps, but I would not want to rely on straps to keep from damaging all of the other parts. I think you could add some down travel by either using a few washers stacked on the stem of the strut or using the 1/4" spacer on top of the strut cup. I want to get it back on the road, I have had it apart three times now. I figured the OME guys have been running the stock length setup with success and the 5100's already add about 3/8" to the strut.
You can run the Bilstein 4600HD in the front, which are stock length, and otherwise the same specs as the 5100 shock, no issues with mixing 4600's and 5100's.
 

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On second thought The Tuff Country looks similar to a Daystar lift... Interesting I was assuming it was more like the Rough Country lift. Maybe the 5100 struts might work in the front @ .75"

Measure from your front axle to fender.

Alternatively you could remove your lift on the front and run 5100's @ the 2" setting with a strut spacer plate. This should increase your front ride height a bit.


Some people run the bilstein 5100's @ the lowest setting in conjunction with an OME spring lift, this is referred to as a modified OME lift.


I personally run bilstein 5100 struts @ the middle setting (1.5") and stacked rear isolators for ~1" lift.

Before and after:


 

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Discussion Starter #5
all great info thanks guys, the kind that i can put to use.

front and rear measurements are right around 21in. with worn tires. they are a 265/65/19 togo open country at2. the rear is about a 1/4in. higher. from ground to fender is 35in and again about 1/4in. higher in the rear.

does that sound about right with worn tires and a 2in. spacer lift??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
On second thought The Tuff Country looks similar to a Daystar lift... Interesting I was assuming it was more like the Rough Country lift. Maybe the 5100 struts might work in the front @ .75"

Measure from your front axle to fender.

Alternatively you could remove your lift on the front and run 5100's @ the 2" setting with a strut spacer plate. This should increase your front ride height a bit.


Some people run the bilstein 5100's @ the lowest setting in conjunction with an OME spring lift, this is referred to as a modified OME lift.


I personally run bilstein 5100 struts @ the middle setting (1.5") and stacked rear isolators for ~1" lift.

Before and after:




nice looking rig!


i like the idea of running OME springs. heck i might just consider ordering the full OME kit if i can find a shop that will order and instal for me
 

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all great info thanks guys, the kind that i can put to use.

front and rear measurements are right around 21in. with worn tires. they are a 265/65/19 togo open country at2. the rear is about a 1/4in. higher. from ground to fender is 35in and again about 1/4in. higher in the rear.

does that sound about right with worn tires and a 2in. spacer lift??
The reason i asked for axle to fender measurements is that the tire doesn't effect it at all. 21" should be safe to run 5100 struts @ their lowest setting.
Too much downtravel shouldn't be a problem since your lift (unlike Rough Country's lift) utilizes a spring spacer for preload (as well as a strut spacer) and some of the static lift comes from that.
I would personally try to go the 5100 strut route instead of adding a strut plate.

Something to consider on these vehicles is that the fenders in the front have a larger opening than in the rear, so your likely closer to an inch lower in the front ATM.

nice looking rig!

i like the idea of running OME springs. heck i might just consider ordering the full OME kit if i can find a shop that will order and instal for me
Thanks! It gets the wife and kids to and from soccer practice nicely :)

The full OME kit is certainly an excellent option, and highly recommended both here and @ JeepForum.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The reason i asked for axle to fender measurements is that the tire doesn't effect it at all. 21" should be safe to run 5100 struts @ their lowest setting.
Too much downtravel shouldn't be a problem since your lift (unlike Rough Country's lift) utilizes a spring spacer for preload (as well as a strut spacer) and some of the static lift comes from that.
I would personally try to go the 5100 strut route instead of adding a strut plate.

Something to consider on these vehicles is that the fenders in the front have a larger opening than in the rear, so your likely closer to an inch lower in the front ATM.



Thanks! It gets the wife and kids to and from soccer practice nicely :)

The full OME kit is certainly an excellent option, and highly recommended both here and @ JeepForum.

thanks for the personal input.!! still deciding on what I'm going to do. i have my money in several projects right now including a new track bike.......what to do?
 
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