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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I went ahead and did it just because I wanted to and I wanted to see what the end result would be in reality.
I used:
Superlift 4" kit
OME struts
OME 993 springs
OME 991 springs
Daystar 2" spacer kit (front and rear)
Random adjustable controls arms I had lying around
Custom front axles and CV joints

Still need to get:
JBA upper control arms (purchased and waiting for shipment)
20" rims (just sourced)
35x12.5 R20 red letter generals (just bought today)
New spacers 1.5" maybe (need to fit the rim first to measure)

I will post pics so everyone can see what can be done. With that said, it does not mean it should be done!

I am doing this just for the sake of taking measurments at the extreme. My axle builder wants to know if his axles will hold up to these angles and stresses in hopes he can market a heavy duty axles for WK and XKs.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Front end pictures:
Contact with front struts (just touching springs) left and right when you use stock upper control arms.
CV angles are not horrible, but not goid either. The angle is at the max droop tolerance for these shafts.
The JBA uppers may fix this because the whole arm section will have a new camber and caster angles. JBA arms are meant to moves the arms back to 3/8" off the strut for a stock orientation.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am going with 20" wheels because the front swaybar links come very close to the inner sidewall of the tire. At low PSI I can see this being a tad scary.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The exhaust modification to my 3" kit. SL reccomends just making a dimple for clearance, but that is for a stock set up. I had to cut, then extend the down pipe of the driver's side bank.
Also, I added two washers to the bottom plate mount screw in order to shorten the amount in which the screw goes beyond the frame nut towards the driveshaft joint. Maybe I am paranoid, but it was super close!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The rear setup is pretty tolerant of the extended kit.
No major issues, but I will be extending the upper arms to push the driveshaft into a better angle at the pumpkin.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, so there is an example of a 'what if' kit.
Thursday I get the 35s and I will stuff them on for some pictures so you can see what changes occur, if any, and if it can be done.
By the way, General Tire Grabbers are true 35" dia tires. Some tires like my Toyo Open country set on a 10" width rim only measure 35.5", even though it is a 35" tire.
So it will be a true test of 35".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh yeah, the ground to fender measurements!
Sitting on 265/70R17 @45lbs PSI 70deg F
Front is 42"
Rear is 39"

3" diffrence leaning back... Seems odd.
 

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Awesome. Thanks for doing this in the name of science. It looks completely unsafe to drive as it is but I'm sure with the proper modifications and budget it can be done. I know there are always questions out there about stacking or combining lift kits and usually we're just able to provide theoretical replies. This is a great example of "what if...".
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tires have arrived and just finishing up getting them mounted/balanced. I am still waiting for my spacers to show up this evening.

General Red letter tires look awesome
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Pictures are always better
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok fedex is delivering the JBA arms today and the wheel spacers.
I will take pictures of the JBA setup to show the difference the new arms actually make from the stock arms in relation to large lifts (4" and more).
Also I will show how the 35" tires fit without cutting, then how much the control arms in the rear need to be adjusted to enable fit and driveshaft angles. Right now stock legnth is 17.5" upper and lower. The is center of bolt to center of bolt on my Commander. i am expecting to go to 19.5 on the lower and 21.5 on the upper. Basicall re-centering the axle in the wheel well and adjusting to a more elevated angle. This will affect the spring perch, so I will post pics of that and if it needs to be cut and moved.

Dave

BTW at slow speeds it drives fine. I have not tried to drive it normally, it is not safe for sure at those speeds. Just want to let folks know not to do this unless they are committed to the mods I am making, which are permanent to the truck... All the Superlift pieces are getting welded at the end of this.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It looks like a toy truck now....

Ok, the tires are mounted and I am doing some measurements, but here it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Love me some sexy arms! Just arrived from JBA.
One note, JBA and Marlin Gehman produce great parts and have outstanding service. Yeah the price is steep, but look what you get!
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Ok....

Installed one UCA and found that it is sitting in the exact same position as the stock, albeit the ball joint is much better now.

I am working with JBA right now to figure what happened. We confirmed I have his WK/XK lifted versions.
We did a center wheel to bottom fender measurement and came up with 27 1/4". This is equal to his 8" lift on his vehicle.

*** need to note that the daystar 2" spacer is not installed on the front struts!****
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So, I found a problem that is part of the issue. My strut coil has moved from center and is leaning outboard.

frustrating...
 

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Thanks for keeping us posted on the build. Looks like you might need a new coil isolator from the pic above. It's looking great!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Another find that is causing an issue...

The OME 0991 springs I received are on the higher end of their manufacturing tolerance. these springs are adding 4" to the height, stretching the already maxed out angles on the knuckles and CV joints.

What is happening, even with the new JBA UCAs, is the camber having less and less room for adjustment as the vehicle rises from the lift.

unless I get the new ORI springless struts, this is another reason why 7-8" lifts on the commander are exceedingly tough to do.

Also causing an issue is the rear spring set no raising the vehicle to match the front and leaning the vehicle to the rear. This also complicates the front CV axle issue at the joint. coasting, the CVs are just fine. When you apply power and the vehicle naturally raises the front end, the already bad angles get worse.

If I could get more camber angle out of the knuckle this could be resolved I think.

Dave
 

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Another find that is causing an issue...

The OME 0991 springs I received are on the higher end of their manufacturing tolerance. these springs are adding 4" to the height, stretching the already maxed out angles on the knuckles and CV joints.
I call BS on that claim, the tolerance for their springs is +/- 4"?
You have the wrong spring for your Commander or the springs they made were defective, there is no way a spring can be 4" off the intended ride height and be within tolerances.
What is happening, even with the new JBA UCAs, is the camber having less and less room for adjustment as the vehicle rises from the lift.

unless I get the new ORI springless struts, this is another reason why 7-8" lifts on the commander are exceedingly tough to do.

Also causing an issue is the rear spring set no raising the vehicle to match the front and leaning the vehicle to the rear. This also complicates the front CV axle issue at the joint. coasting, the CVs are just fine. When you apply power and the vehicle naturally raises the front end, the already bad angles get worse.

If I could get more camber angle out of the knuckle this could be resolved I think.
I haven't kept up with this thread, so I may be off in my assessment, BUT it looks like to me, the root of your problem is you're outside of the limits of the design for the suspension. You will NOT get the alignment or angles for CV shafts and Tie-Rods back into limits unless you lower the ride height back more toward the designed ride height.


Have you considered cutting the springs to lower it back closer to design ride height? You might want to get a 2nd opinion, I've never tried it, just read about it, but you can cut a spring with a high-speed cutting wheel and it still work perfectly fine. Things like torches and heating is a bad idea, that ruins the temper of the spring and makes it unsafe. But a good high speed cutter, you can cut off a some of the spring and thus lower your ride height without compromising the springs properties.
 
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