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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all - new to the forum. Just bought my wife an 06 commander with 5.7 Hemi. About a mile down the road, after she first starts it in the morning, it will stall out at the red light. I know it's still somewhat cold but this doesn't seem normal at all to me. I called the dealer and he suggested looking at the IAC valve. I tried searching this forum for previous threads but couldn't find any (probably user error). Found one on the wrangler forum is all. I just need to know where the IAC is located on the commander Hemi and how to take it off and clean it. Pretty sure that's what's causing the stalling based on what dealer said plus other forums. Thanks
 

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I've had a similar problem with rough idling, and attempted stalls til I pulled the IAC valve. I sprayed/cleaned it with carburater cleaner. I have the 3.7l, and the aic is located under the air intake plenum, front right side of mass air flow, attached with one torx screw and a small wiring harness. Also sprayed down inside of mass air flow and housing of aic. Wipe clean excessive cleaner on/inside unit. When spraying the inside of iac, careful not to saturate the black plastic body of the iac, this is the motor and you could damage it. Also, careful not to damage the two o-rings on the outside of the iac.
 

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Drive-by-Wire Throttle Bodies do NOT have an IAC, the PCM has total control of the Butterfly and justs opens/closes it as necessary to control idle.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but does NOT ever Commander Hemi have Drive-by-Wire?

If that is the case, cleaning the whole TB may help.

First thing I would do is check for any stored fault codes and correct those. There is a sticky on how to do the key dance to get the Odometer/EVIC to read out stored fault codes. Correct any problem you find and the will likely solve the problem.

Using higher then recommended/needed Octane makes for hard cold starting and more likely to stall when the motor is cold. Using higher then recommended/necessary octane rarely gets you any kind of improvement in anything, best to use the recommended octane.

Ignition is a big one for cold stalling, if your due for new spark plugs and/or ignition wire, I'd change them and see if that improves things.

Dirty Fuel Injectors can do it also, I'd add Chevron Fuel Injector Cleaner (I've heard that is the best f.i. cleaner).
 

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I'm not sure what a drive-by wire throttle body is, but I did remove a carbon filled sensor on the inlet side of the throttle body, clean it, reinstall and it now idles much smoother AND does not try to stall on cold starts. I'm pretty sure this sensor is the IAC. Right next to this is I believe the throttle positioning sensor, which looks like it controls the butterfly? not sure. If I had more time, would love to have removed the entire throttle body and polish it.
 

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I'm not sure what a drive-by wire throttle body is, but I did remove a carbon filled sensor on the inlet side of the throttle body, clean it, reinstall and it now idles much smoother AND does not try to stall on cold starts. I'm pretty sure this sensor is the IAC. Right next to this is I believe the throttle positioning sensor, which looks like it controls the butterfly? not sure. If I had more time, would love to have removed the entire throttle body and polish it.
DBW means that there is no throttle cable. With DBW the throttle is computer controlled in relation to the position of the gas pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All...thanks. Here's more info. First, we use 89 octane gas as recommended for the hemi. Second, the PCM was replaced not too long ago. There are no lights coming on, and it did it stalled again today while my wife was simply slowing down to a stop. The engine had been warmed up already fer a bit.

I will try cleaning the TB and do the fuel injector cleaner. I will advise (so there is a TB right?)
 

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Updates - the hemi does NOT have an IAC, and you can't clean the TB, because it is electronic (contained) drive by wire. My wife will warm up the jeep, for instance this morning, after she started it, she gave it a little extra gas before pulling out, and no stalling up the road. I did speak to one of the local jeep mechanics and he suggested that the coolant temperature sensor may be a cause of the intermittent stalling. I looked up what this sensor does, in relation to the PCM, and holy crap! This little sensor controls/monitors a BUNCH of stuff. So I may end up draining some coolant and putting in a new one. I also ran the key trick and found no fault codes (DTC - done), so I'm going to have to go with that. Don't know what else to do other than the fuel injector cleaner. The ignition coil pack and plugs were replaced at 62k miles.
 

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Sounds like a cheap and simple hopeful solution to me. I'd do it. Sometimes using the process of elimination, starting with the cheapest and easiest repairs is the way to go. By the way, cleaning the IAC and throttle body on my 3.7l did some good, although the hesitation, or attempts to stall are still happening. I'll look into the coolant sensor as well and post later.
Good luck.
 

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My 3.7L had a rough idle after it has warmed up. I took it to the dealer to have the throttle body cleaned and reflash either the TCM or PCM. So far, the idle has been very smooth. I Hope my two cents help.
 

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Thanks Bob....interesting you mention the throttle body cleaning because I called another dealer this morning who said that that's all I really need to do probably (I called about picking up the thermostat). I told him that I thought the TB was contained as an electronic unit and he said that was wrong, that it is accessible through the intake like the others. He also shot down the thermostat thing because he said it would definitely trigger a CEL, which I have not gotten, and no DTC's using the key trick either. SO now I'm back to the basics, with my can of TB cleaner. Thing is, I swear I already looked for the TB and couldn't find it. I'm at work right now so I can't look until later. How frustrating.
 

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So I cleaned out the throttle body, which was pretty dirty, but the butterfly seemed to turn OK, and added a bottle of fuel injector cleaner too (did all this yesterday). Stalled on my wife this morning. Back to the dealership, ugh.
 

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The mechanic found that the trans fluid was down by almost 2 quarts. I have no idea why this is, but the Jeep hasn't stalled in almost 3 weeks since they filled it back up. I also had them flash the final drive control module and the "service 4wd system" is now gone.
 

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Yea. And if only you had a dipstick in the trannsmission, like there should be, you would've detected this. From what I understand, there are sensitive solinoid valves in the tranny that maybe need the correct fluid level to work properly. My guess.

I took mine (06 3.7l) in to get the Powertrain Control Module updated, or flashed, feeling that the traction control was engaging at times it shouldn't have been, assuming this flash would correct this. (I mirrored the symptoms in the TSB, and this seemed like a reasonable solution, or fix) The mechanic called back shortly afterwards and said that not only was the PCM outdated, but so was the sunroof memory, radio and another control module. I paid for four flashes, $154.00. I think it shifts better now, but the flash did not resolve the issues i'm having, which are minor and sporatic. someday maybe.....
 

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Yea, it just steams me the Dealerships charge for software updates. If you bring your vehicle in for repair or service, they are suppose to check the software versions and update them for free. At least that is what I am told is Chrysler's policy.

If you never bring you vehicle to the dealership for service or repair, then I could understand how it might be reasonable to charge a reasonable fee for someone that just shows up and wants the lastest software updates for NO other reason then to have the latest software.

If an owner shows up complaining of a problem, that a software update should solve, they should get it for free IMO, the problem is from a defect in the software, as matter of integrity Chrysler sould provide it for free even if the warranty is up, the problem is NOT normal wear, nor the customer's fault, it is their fault.

AFA the transmission causing the motor to stall, I can see that. I had a malfunctioning AC system that increased the drag on the compressor so much it caused my motor to stall as we coasted down to a stop.

Any transmissions experts correct me if I'm wrong, but there is the Torque Converter Lock-Up, being very low on trans fluid could create lower pressures and even let air into the hydrualic circuits. That could result in delays in unlocking the Torque Converter, and if the torque converter is still locked as the trans input shaft slowed to less then idle speed of the engine, that would stall the motor.

BTW, I got the special tool for the Mercedes Trans off ebay for $25. Yea, its NOT designed as a dipstick that you leave in the tube while driving. It has no seal on the end and it extends a good 2 feet past the tube opening. Since its designed to bottom out on the pan, you would have to be super accurate if you wanted to cut it short and attach some sort of cap to it.

I hang it on the garage wall, and pull the plastic cap and check the fluid level from time to time.

For changing trans fluid, honestly, works work best for me, I've got a 5 qt clear jug and used a sharpy to graduate it by the half quart using old oil bottles and water. I make sure my pan is drained of any fluids before hand, and after draining the oil and putting the pan back on, I pour out the old tranny fluid in the jug and measure exactly how much fluid I drained. Then I replace the same amount of fluid on filling.

Sure a little spills removing the pan, although they make a big puddle, its only a couple of onces. I have trans temp gauge I check fluid temp with and use the dipstick and confirm it, add a few more onces to get it in the center of the range.
 
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