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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Y'all,
I'm new to the forum, but owned this 2008 Commander Limited, 5.7L, since 2010. It's had the factory recall done for the key FOBs and the front control module. Looks like I've got one of three or more possible problems. Presently has 111,829 miles on the clock.
When out running errands and after one stop and restart, noticed engine light was on. Transmission felt like it was slipping (slow take off), and noticed gear indicator showed 4 rather than D. Tried to change to D, but it would only indicate D when held to the right. Transmission was still in 4 as it still had a slow take off. Tried to down shift, but it stayed at 4. After another stop I tried the remote start. Car started fine, but shut off just after I got in. Inserted fob and started it. Put the shifter in drive and it showed D. Car drove and shifted normally for a short time, then went back to showing 4 on the indicator. Clunking hard into reverse and into drive (4). Car was clearly stuck in 4th gear as it did not shift when getting up to highway speed. 50 mph = 2200 rpm; 60 mph = 2600 rpm; 70 mph = 3000 rpm; 80 mph = 3400 rpm. Even at 80 it would not shift up to D. Tried turning the tow switch on and off, but it remained in 4. Checked for codes after getting home and got P0750 Shift Solenoid "A" DTC trouble code (problem with 1-2 gear shift solenoid). Checked transmission fluid; it's full. Transmission was serviced (both filters, gasket and 9 qts. fluid) 37,749 miles ago (74,060). Tried to use remote start, doors locked but engine did not start; tried a few more times but no joy. Suspect there may be an ECU or TCM failure as the remote start also quit. Maybe just the shift solenoid? Inspected wiring harness and connectors at transmission, all look okay. Has anybody else experienced this and if so what all got replaced to correct it? I hate just changing parts, but have no manuals or info on component testing for this car.
 

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@Shadow Welcome to the forum! I don't know the cause of your problem. When the Commander goes into "limp" mode it stays in 3rd gear. I've never heard of one staying in 4th gear. I would say start with changing the shift solenoid and see if that clears it up. Post some pics of your XK for us when you get a chance.

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Discussion Starter #3
@Shadow Welcome to the forum! I don't know the cause of your problem. When the Commander goes into "limp" mode it stays in 3rd gear. I've never heard of one staying in 4th gear. I would say start with changing the shift solenoid and see if that clears it up. Post some pics of your XK for us when you get a chance.

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Just found some good troubleshooting info on Ram forumz. Headed out to the garage now. Will follow up...…….
 

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Just found some good troubleshooting info on Ram forumz. Headed out to the garage now. Will follow up...…….
I hope you have found the answer. Keep us posted.

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Hi Y'all,
I'm new to the forum, but owned this 2008 Commander Limited, 5.7L, since 2010. It's had the factory recall done for the key FOBs and the front control module. Looks like I've got one of three or more possible problems. Presently has 111,829 miles on the clock.
When out running errands and after one stop and restart, noticed engine light was on. Transmission felt like it was slipping (slow take off), and noticed gear indicator showed 4 rather than D. Tried to change to D, but it would only indicate D when held to the right. Transmission was still in 4 as it still had a slow take off. Tried to down shift, but it stayed at 4. After another stop I tried the remote start. Car started fine, but shut off just after I got in. Inserted fob and started it. Put the shifter in drive and it showed D. Car drove and shifted normally for a short time, then went back to showing 4 on the indicator. Clunking hard into reverse and into drive (4). Car was clearly stuck in 4th gear as it did not shift when getting up to highway speed. 50 mph = 2200 rpm; 60 mph = 2600 rpm; 70 mph = 3000 rpm; 80 mph = 3400 rpm. Even at 80 it would not shift up to D. Tried turning the tow switch on and off, but it remained in 4. Checked for codes after getting home and got P0750 Shift Solenoid "A" DTC trouble code (problem with 1-2 gear shift solenoid). Checked transmission fluid; it's full. Transmission was serviced (both filters, gasket and 9 qts. fluid) 37,749 miles ago (74,060). Tried to use remote start, doors locked but engine did not start; tried a few more times but no joy. Suspect there may be an ECU or TCM failure as the remote start also quit. Maybe just the shift solenoid? Inspected wiring harness and connectors at transmission, all look okay. Has anybody else experienced this and if so what all got replaced to correct it? I hate just changing parts, but have no manuals or info on component testing for this car.
@Shadow;

Welcome to the forum. Post some pics of your Commander when you can;

Here are some links if you need to order any more parts for repairs or upgrades to your XK;

Chrysler/Jeep Factory Parts: https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/

North American Parts: https://northamericanparts.rpmware.c...unt/login.aspx

JeepinByAl: JBAoffroad.com

JustforJeeps.com - https://www.justforjeeps.com/

Rough County lift kits - Suspension Lift Kits, Body Lifts, Leveling Kit, 4x4, Jeep, Chevy, Dodge, Ford, Off-road Truck | Rough Country Suspension Systems®

4 inch XK Superlift;
AFE: Advanced FLOW Engineering | Engineered Adrenaline

CARiD.com - https://www.carid.com/?gclid=CjwKEAj...NrrxoCEBbw_wcB

Bilstein shocks & struts - Home

WAM Custom Bumpers - https://wambumpers.com/

Jeep Steel Bumpers
4WheelParts.com - Truck Parts & Jeep Parts - Lift Kits, Winches, Tonneau Covers, Tires, Wheels, Bumpers, Performance ? 4 Wheel Parts

RockAuto - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...catalog%2Fjeep

Also, please read the New Member Required Reading below; Lots of good information for new members here;

REQUIRED READING!!! New Member Introduction post & other important new member info.

Thanks & again, welcome aboard.
 

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Check the pan filter seal. If its not installed properly it causes fluid to drain back and cause issues. It may have come loose...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's repaired now and here's the resolution:
I found a good trouble shooting video on line:
Checked my shift solenoid block as in the video. pins 10-19 had 140 ohms. Pins 1-2, 4, 6, 8 all showed 140 ohms. The guy in the video said it should be about 2 ohms. I found a new shift solenoid block on Amazon for $319. There are plenty on line cheaper that are reman if you want to go that route. The part arrived the next day and appeared to be a MOPAR part; exact in every way right down ink stamped part number (the new one had "F" as the last character, where the old one was a "D" (two generations updated on the new one). Before dropping the pan, I plugged the new part into the harness (there's just barely enough room to do it) and ohmed it out. Pins 10-19 were 1.6 ohms and all the rest came in at 3.0 ohms. Just a few notes and tips for anyone else doing this. There are 6 hex head bolts (8mm / 5/16" heads) that retain the valve body. Once you remove them you may have to gently pry the left side down with a screw driver, but it will pop out easily; beware that this assembly weighs just over 15 lbs. and additional fluid will pour down on you when trying to get it out. Once out and on the bench, compare the new part with the old and mark the 15 pan head Torx (T-25) screws that need to be removed. I found this nice bit of info while searching for torque specs:
He says T-20 for the filter and solenoid block screws, but mine were T-25, but then torque specs are quite handy.
Once it was all back together it took 12 quarts of ATF to refill it (took 9 quarts when I only changed the fluid and filters last time). Cleared the P0750 from the PCM and test drove. All is well and the wife is happy to have her car back. Hope this info helps the next guy. Shoot me a message if y'all have any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Check the pan filter seal. If its not installed properly it causes fluid to drain back and cause issues. It may have come loose...
Thanks drm4633,
Just a note to anyone following this thread. When replacing the filter, note the seal on the output tube of the filter. Press the new seal up into the transmission first and then push the output tube of the filter into the seal; lastly, reinstall the T-25 pan head Torx screw to retain the filter. If you put the seal on the filter first, you'll never get it installed correctly.
 

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@Shadow Thanks for the update! Glad you got it fixed.

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Thanks drm4633,
Just a note to anyone following this thread. When replacing the filter, note the seal on the output tube of the filter. Press the new seal up into the transmission first and then push the output tube of the filter into the seal; lastly, reinstall the T-25 pan head Torx screw to retain the filter. If you put the seal on the filter first, you'll never get it installed correctly.
Good information throughout this thread @Shadow;

Thanks for sharing.
 
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