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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 06 XK with a 2.25" spacer lift from Rocky Road and I'm running 245/75/17 tires (around 2" taller than stock). The problem is I'm burning through half shafts every 6-12 months due to angles on the CV's. I haven't been using Mopar shafts and the replacements just aren't holding up.

Wanted to get some XK veterans' thoughts on installing just the differential drop brackets from Superlift's 4" kit, and possibly modifying the cross member to ensure front drive shaft clearance (which is a Bill's Englewood custom unit). My concerns are that the 4" drop brackets would be too much drop.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

-Rob
 

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Rob - a RR 2.25" lift is not extreme - you really shouldn't be burning up CV's at all. My wife's '08 has 130K on it with 110K on a BDS 2" spacer lift and while we just replaced almost everything in the front end (bushings, struts, balljoints, etc.) the original CV shafts are still fine. Before spending cash on the brackets (which lower the diff 3.5", not a full 4"), I would spend the money for some OEM CV shafts. Others on this forum have tons of miles with 2-2.25" spacer lifts with no CV issues. Just my thoughts.
 

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What shafts are you using? If they're the cheap $60 ones, and the OEM's are just too much to swallow, try getting Crown Automotive CV's. They're an OEM supplier and are usually on par with quality you'd get from the dealer. When my shafts go, that's what I plan on getting.... I don't trust cheaper ones to hold up especially with QDII

I wouldn't drop the diff ~4". Could end up hyper-extending the CV's when the suspension compresses. Will also kill ground clearance and expose the diff; so you'd need to make a custom suspension skid as well... all-in-all it's a lot of work for something that isn't needed (ie get good CV's)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the feedback guys. I've tried EMPI, ProMaster (several times on the passenger side), and A1 Cardone all with no success.

I'm going back to OEM CV shafts. I actually just got a new drivers side shaft since it was a deal on ebay. The money wasted on junk replacements should have gone to OEM shafts in the first place. I've found its a chore to replace them too, especially the drivers side - so the extra money could even be justified just by the savings of not having to do the labor more than once.

Lastly, I measured the CV shaft diameter and heres what I found:
ProMaster - +/- 26mm
A1 Cardone - +/- 28mm
OEM - +/- 30mm

Interesting to note - A buddy a work has the exact same lift, different tires. His axle to fender measurement was around 20.5", where as mine is a hair under 22". I thought the taller tires may have been the deal breaker, but I'm convinced cheap parts are to blame.
 

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Yeah I cheaped out with A1 Cardone and I have one going bad already. Is there anyway to tell which one is bad while driving it? Sounds like all the clicking is on the driver's side.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In my experience, axle noises are really hard to pinpoint.

I can't say for sure, but I believe if you hear more clicking/clunking noise turning one direction, the opposite side is usually to blame.

Not sure about your experience changing them out, but my drivers side was ridiculous. I fought for hours with a pry bar before finally dropping the diff, removing the axle tube, and hitting the shaft out with a long narrow drift. Literally popped out the first hit. If one side is bad already, I'd bite the bullet and replace both sides with OEM shafts and be done with it.
 

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I've tried EMPI, ProMaster (several times on the passenger side), and A1 Cardone all with no success.

I'm going back to OEM CV shafts. I actually just got a new drivers side shaft since it was a deal on ebay. The money wasted on junk replacements should have gone to OEM shafts in the first place. I've found its a chore to replace them too, especially the drivers side - so the extra money could even be justified just by the savings of not having to do the labor more than once.

Lastly, I measured the CV shaft diameter and heres what I found:
ProMaster - +/- 26mm
A1 Cardone - +/- 28mm
OEM - +/- 30mm

Interesting to note - A buddy a work has the exact same lift, different tires. His axle to fender measurement was around 20.5", where as mine is a hair under 22". I thought the taller tires may have been the deal breaker, but I'm convinced cheap parts are to blame.

22" axle to fender? Are you sure you are running stock springs and non adjustable shocks? My stock axle to fender measurement was 18" and I'm now at 20 1/4" with a 2" daystar lift up front. Maybe the reason you're going through CVs is because you're really lifted more than you thought? Tires won't affect this measurement.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I double checked the measurements today and it's definitely close to 21-1/2" from the axle to the fender.

Can anyone else weigh in on their measurements?

Any idea what could cause this extra lift????

I've installed Rocky Road's 2-1/4" lift, Monroe reflex struts, moog strut mounts, moog UCA's (with moog ball joints), raybestos lower ball joints, and replaced the sway bar end links/bushings.
 

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Just measured mine today...21 1/2" hub center to fender.
 
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