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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All...so I ran a JBA $1200 4inch lift for a while. After all the issues in the last couple of years I've called superlift and paid and put piece by piece together their lift (minus the rear, i got core 4x4 t3 control arms with the fuel tank bend). So I bought new Rancho RS-55826 struts, new trw factory size springs and new mounts, i swapped out all my UCA bushings and my differential bushings and got some quality cv axles from CVJ Axles. Finally started putting the front back together today and I have a couple of issues. 1 - the axles went in smooth as butter, but now I can't push them into the superlift knuckle and wheel hub assembly? 2 - I am going to take the knuckle and hub off and put on squeezing that in. But it HIGHLY looks like its going to hit the strut :(. The Superlift differential drops are all bolted in proper, the differential literally only goes in one way? Will this all likely line up if I just remove the knuckle, reattach it and let the system settle? I know a big part of this is since its all brand new parts they might have to settle maybe? Trying to get to work tomorrow but doesn't look like its happening:(.
 

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Hi All...so I ran a JBA $1200 4inch lift for a while. After all the issues in the last couple of years I've called superlift and paid and put piece by piece together their lift (minus the rear, i got core 4x4 t3 control arms with the fuel tank bend). So I bought new Rancho RS-55826 struts, new trw factory size springs and new mounts, i swapped out all my UCA bushings and my differential bushings and got some quality cv axles from CVJ Axles. Finally started putting the front back together today and I have a couple of issues. 1 - the axles went in smooth as butter, but now I can't push them into the superlift knuckle and wheel hub assembly? 2 - I am going to take the knuckle and hub off and put on squeezing that in. But it HIGHLY looks like its going to hit the strut :(. The Superlift differential drops are all bolted in proper, the differential literally only goes in one way? Will this all likely line up if I just remove the knuckle, reattach it and let the system settle? I know a big part of this is since its all brand new parts they might have to settle maybe? Trying to get to work tomorrow but doesn't look like its happening:(.
Rancho struts are hard enough to install on a stock Commander, from what I've been told, which is why not too many people run them;

I don't think the front Rancho Struts are compatible with the Superlift's front suspension components.

I'll also go on record here and say that I think you're making a mistake trying to mix & match Superlift components, by using Superlift components in the front & not in the rear.

You should either install the complete 4 inch Superlift (front & rear) or don't install it at all; It's not a lift that's designed to be half-installed, as I understand it, which is why it's typically sold as a complete kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Big Blue I'll definitely take that into consideration for the rear. I did run to the parts store and made measurements compared to monroe and others (also the preassembled with springs) and they are the same size. This is being really difficult for some reason lol. I've ran a rigged system for years and finally got the rest of the proper components and its not playing nice.
 

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Thanks Big Blue I'll definitely take that into consideration for the rear. I did run to the parts store and made measurements compared to monroe and others (also the preassembled with springs) and they are the same size. This is being really difficult for some reason lol. I've ran a rigged system for years and finally got the rest of the proper components and its not playing nice.
@Hawkeyes; It's definitely not the easiest install in the world that you're tackling.

I had mine installed at a professional 4x4 shop and it took them several days - in part because Superlift initially sent the wrong EGR module.

Even without that setback, it was still easily a 3-4 day install - and that's at a professional shop with a lift, all the proper tools - and guys with a lot of experience installing Super-lifts.

Best of luck to you, I'll be curious to hear what the problem was, when you get it all sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Blue. Done all my own work outside of alignments myself. In and out :). Learned a lot about cheating out on components the first round. Also not buying anymore overpriced part store junk house brand parts. This one seriously has me stumped, tomorrow when I get off work ill remove the knuckles and reassemble them and see how she goes. I have to say I spent over a day finding a method to press out and in new bushings in my JBA A arms. That was no fun. I also put in a ticket to Superlift to see what they say. I've had the differential drop, egr module and other things in for over a year now with no issues. I also tried using some Jeeperf stuff while it was quality and expensive it didn't mix with the superlift lol.

I also ran the core 4x4 arms by them on my last parts order and they said they saw no issues with using those instead of their drop brackets as long as they adjusted to the proper length and accommodated the front. I also directly extended front brake lines with rhino brake extensions instead of pulling 5j3 factory lines further down/out and they approved. So worst case I have to place one last call for parts for the rear if they don't. I have a feeling they didn't offer something like the control arms because at $600 they would have raised the kit price significantly.

Anyways ill let you know what I figure out tomorrow night.
 

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Thanks Blue. Done all my own work outside of alignments myself. In and out :). Learned a lot about cheating out on components the first round. Also not buying anymore overpriced part store junk house brand parts. This one seriously has me stumped, tomorrow when I get off work ill remove the knuckles and reassemble them and see how she goes. I have to say I spent over a day finding a method to press out and in new bushings in my JBA A arms. That was no fun. I also put in a ticket to Superlift to see what they say. I've had the differential drop, egr module and other things in for over a year now with no issues. I also tried using some Jeeperf stuff while it was quality and expensive it didn't mix with the superlift lol.

I also ran the core 4x4 arms by them on my last parts order and they said they saw no issues with using those instead of their drop brackets as long as they adjusted to the proper length and accommodated the front. I also directly extended front brake lines with rhino brake extensions instead of pulling 5j3 factory lines further down/out and they approved. So worst case I have to place one last call for parts for the rear if they don't. I have a feeling they didn't offer something like the control arms because at $600 they would have raised the kit price significantly.

Anyways ill let you know what I figure out tomorrow night.
Well you're obviously far more mechanically inclined then I am.

I do my own work - within my capabilities, anything electrical, any exterior modifications, body/trim stuff & interior work.

But when it comes to major mechanical jobs, dealing with the power-train or the suspension, I don't have the patience or the time to invest, that it would take for me to learn.

Anyway, let me know how it goes.
 

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1 - the axles went in smooth as butter, but now I can't push them into the superlift knuckle and wheel hub assembly? 2 - I am going to take the knuckle and hub off and put on squeezing that in. But it HIGHLY looks like its going to hit the strut :(. The Superlift differential drops are all bolted in proper, the differential literally only goes in one way? Will this all likely line up if I just remove the knuckle, reattach it and let the system settle? I know a big part of this is since its all brand new parts they might have to settle maybe? Trying to get to work tomorrow but doesn't look like its happening:(.
Trying to understand exactly what you got going on here....pictures would really help!
So, sounds like the axles went into the diff "smooth as butter", but you're having issues with the hub/wheel end of the axles. When you say that you can't push them in, is this because the spline count or axle diameter doesn't seem right so they physically don't fit? or that the axles aren't the right length? Maybe there's just a good bit of corrosion in there and the hub needs some cleaning/lubing?

Sounds like your "2" option is disassembling the knuckle and hub assembly to try and confirm the fitment of the axle in the hub for size/spline? If so...then that should pretty much solve that question. Otherwise, overall length could be an issue. Do you still have the OEM axles to compare lengths? Why did you replace your axles? CVJ seems to just be an axle reman/rebuild company, so unless I'm missing something, these should still be OEM rebuilt axles you have?
I'm not personally familiar with a Superlift system, but I know the parts/design they consist of and I am very familiar with the entire front end assembly on our XKs...
For the axle hitting the strut- Since you've been buying the Superlift in parts vs the entire kit, I'm inclined to think you're either still missing some parts or the situation just appears a certain way because you don't have it fully assembled yet. The Superlift front end works off 4 main parts- the diff drop, control arm drop, extended knuckle and the strut spacers (preload and shock mount). I guess that's 5 parts if you count the strut spacers as 2 different parts. If you don't have all of those installed, you will definitely have issues somewhere.
Since the whole idea behind the Superlift is retaining the OEM geometry at the CV axels by dropping the diff, control arm and the wheel hub all together, the spacing of the axle in the strut clevis shouldn't really change throughout the articulation range (vehicle lifted via a hydraulic lift, etc) so your question of things needing to settle shouldn't really come in to play if everything else is assembled properly. In short- if your axle is making contact with the strut while on a lift with weight off the wheels, it's going to make contact any time the vehicle suspension is flexed, so something isn't right. The axle should actually drop closer to the lower control arm when the vehicle is raised based on how everything flexes.

Lastly, I don't see how anything with the rear suspension components would cause any of these issues, they would only effect the ride height appearance and possibly the feel of the ride if they weren't adjusted properly. Those Core arms are probably better than anyone else would offer you....you just gotta make sure they are adjusted right so they don't mess with the rear geometry or the driveline angles---again, which is nothing that'll mess with the front suspension and axles specifically. The SL kits actually consist of an extended lower arm and a drop bracket for the uppers and the track bar....so I'd def argue that, again, you have the better setup with the Core arms. You'll definitely need an adjustable track bar or a drop bracket if you don't already- without it, your rear axle is gonna be way off center, pushing the driveshaft into the gas tank and binding the control arms (unless you got heim joints in those Core arms, but still....)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Wombler,

I'll have to take a clearer picture tonight, but the axle is the same length I replaced the axles about a dozen times from that crappy lift I first put on a few years back so my oem ones were given as cores at some point. Yes CVJ only rebuilds off of oem cores.

I have the pieces you discussed i have each and every superlift front here piece. Heres the issue I have with or without the strut tower installed is i cant just turn the knuckle to put the cv axle in the spindle. I have to dissamble the knuckle from the lca and attach it to the cv axle, but then while the jeep is on jack stands and the strut tower is installed I noticed there is no way the cv is going to go flush across without hitting the bottom of the strut. **** I really suck at explaining this lol. So sorry and thank you to you and Blue for the responses.
Screenshot_20200629-034831_Facebook.jpg 20200628_200203.jpg
 

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Hmm....I think I see what you're trying to describe. If the whole strut assembly is out of the jeep, will everything else line up properly?
Every time I've had my front end apart to pull the CVs for one reason or another, I've done the same as you in the first picture- disconnect the knuckle from the upper a-arm and disconnect the strut clevis from the lower a-arm. After removing the axle hub nut and the brake caliper, then I just lean the whole knuckle out to get the CV out of the hub...it is a bit tight after putting in taller struts so I have to apply a lot of extra pressure pushing the lower a-arm down to get the CV fully out of the hub. Then the reverse to put it back together....
I THINK I got more room to work with by leaving the knuckle attached to the upper a-arm, and just disconnect everything from the lower arm....but then everything is hanging in your way and that lower ball joint is kind of a pain to put back in.
So...I'd say lets start with trying to assemble everything WITHOUT the strut in at all. If that goes well, that'll narrow down the problem. BigBlue already said that Rancho shocks have been problematic for other people, so that may be the case here. I've never seen or heard of this, but that doesn't mean much :p. I don't really see how Ranchos would mess with anything unless they are just WAAAAY longer than the OEM struts, but you are still using the same strut clevis, so that "gap" the axle goes through remains unchanged. Do you still have the OEM struts to compare lengths?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't have the oem struts...i drove to the parts store and measured the assemblies and struts they have like the Monroe pre-assembled kit and it measured the same bottom of strut housing to top of strut mount. also measured the strut body to my OME struts and the body is the same size. I was running a rigged version of OME 2 inch HD springs and the 2 inch spacer. The Rancho and the factory spring are coming in at the same size as the OME 2 inch lift. Like when I installed the OME strut spring and spacer it was way taller than 4 inches and after it "broke in" it dropped to be more of a 3inchish lift.

I did try to slide in the cv axle without the strut in, it doesn't slide in there, i will still have to remove the knuckle to put it on :(. Ugh I chose complete new everything so I wouldn't have issues lol. I'll see what superlift says/suggests when I reach out to them on lunch too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
On another note. I mean with new everything and not broken in im willing to wager i do have to manually put it together to and get some weight on those springs for a bit. Just sucks going to have to ride around with cvs slightly angled for a minute. I did look up superlift install videos and the cvs in those videos looked slightly angled as well.
 

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Ugh I chose complete new everything so I wouldn't have issues lol. I'll see what superlift says/suggests when I reach out to them on lunch too.
Believe me, i know that life.....most of all my engine mods were with that mindset. And I still have problems- although mostly wiring/transmission now 😩

On another note. I mean with new everything and not broken in im willing to wager i do have to manually put it together to and get some weight on those springs for a bit. Just sucks going to have to ride around with cvs slightly angled for a minute. I did look up superlift install videos and the cvs in those videos looked slightly angled as well.
If you can get it all together without any major contact, then i'd say you'll be fine. Everything will need to settle, like you keep saying, and a little bit of CV angle will be okay- especially with new axles. Hell, a lot of us have been running 3-4" Modified lifts (no diff drops) for YEARS with CVs at angle with no problems. However, there are limits, which I know you won't be at. When I first put my lift together I was at 4.5" with used springs and new struts...it eventually sagged down a whole inch to 3.5....
I guess the main hurdle here is figure out wtf is going on with your CVs into your hubs....and that's really hard for me to help with from behind my keyboard! 😄
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I am trying to figure that out. I did take the differential out to add completely new bushings to it, but I mean the diff can only go in one way?? It fit into superlift brackets with no issues lol. I don't see anywhere I can adjust and lower it anymore.
 

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Yea, no way you would have put the diff back in wrong! and the SL diff brackets are pretty specific as well. There is some cutting and modding you had to do, I'm assuming you did all that as well?
Where are you located? your profile doesn't have any info in it
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah the mods were done for the cutting and welding ive had the brackets in over a year. Was fine, took differential out and put bushings in put it back up and now this :). Lol I'm in Denver Co
 

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Yeah the mods were done for the cutting and welding ive had the brackets in over a year. Was fine, took differential out and put bushings in put it back up and now this :). Lol I'm in Denver Co
oof...well, I'd offer to come over and have a look-see....but you're pretty dang far from Alabama, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Nice, its the thought that counts man, thanks:) I'll post here how it goes tonight. I did just get off the phone with Superlift. He said with all new springs and that it's likely that it may be sitting a little higher, he said its not uncommon at all to have to remove the whole knuckle to get to the cv axle removal, especially since I've taken everything apart and done it all like new and it should go together and once I get an alignment it'll also help put things back in line. So I am going to go ahead and remove that knuckle and put the fork in and slip the knuckle over and see what happens. He also clarified the rancho should be fine for it as long as its stock and not a strut that is for other lifts. Confirmed once I have this up the core arms will work fine and he said yes so far I'm feeling good about tonight so here's to hoping!!
 

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Ya, i suppose fully removing the knuckle from both control arms, fitting it onto the axle and then reattaching the arms makes sense! Good luck! I'd like to see and hear about how it turns out!!
 

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Yeah the mods were done for the cutting and welding ive had the brackets in over a year. Was fine, took differential out and put bushings in put it back up and now this :). Lol I'm in Denver Co
@Hawkeyes; Please take the time to complete your user profile as directed here;


Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey guys...ok about done with the front will finish it up tomorrow. I THINK its going to work and pan out. Driver side complete, some minor stuff to do to passenger side tomorrow and try to get to the rear control arms. But here a couple of pics of driver side. Once she's got tired on and aligned I think it'll help a lot, and then after some break in she'll be great. 20200629_212241.jpg . . 20200629_212251.jpg . . 20200629_212305.jpg
 
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