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oh yea....being at full drop, I think everything looks good right now! The only thing I notice, the boots on those CVs are definitely not OEM. Specifically the outer boot. That's the boot I had problems with on the aftermarket shaft I used. The boot is longer, so it's clamped on the shaft much closer to the diff, which allowed it to make contact with that rise in the lower control arm. I think you'll be fine once you get the weight of the vehicle on everything and it all settles out, but just keep an eye on those outer boots for contact for the first while.
Also...maybe it's just the camera angle, but your sway bar and the end link look like they are resting against the knuckle in the first picture?? That might still be because of everything at full drop, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
No they are not OEM, I questioned when I picked them up and they said they'll be good...but I get no warranty because I have a lift lol. They are good solid rebuilds, I probably should have bought the factory boots to go on, but couldn't afford it. Rebuilding my tools after they were stolen by my dad has been an expensive task :(.
 

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No they are not OEM, I questioned when I picked them up and they said they'll be good...but I get no warranty because I have a lift lol. They are good solid rebuilds, I probably should have bought the factory boots to go on, but couldn't afford it. Rebuilding my tools after they were stolen by my dad has been an expensive task :(.
Wow...that's a bad deal...sorry to hear that.
 

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No they are not OEM, I questioned when I picked them up and they said they'll be good...but I get no warranty because I have a lift lol. They are good solid rebuilds, I probably should have bought the factory boots to go on, but couldn't afford it. Rebuilding my tools after they were stolen by my dad has been an expensive task :(.
oh...Since you confirmed that the company you got your axles from does just rebuild OEMs, id assumed that you'd still have OEM shafts...is that actually the case and they just put these oversized boots on? Hopefully that's all it is, the OEMs are a much more robust design internally...
That really sucks about your tools....reacquiring everything is no cheap, easy or quick task....hell, 20 years in and i'm still buying tools i wish i had long ago :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'll reconfirm, dang I'm a confusing person. The shafts are oem that they rebuild just not the boots. They don't mess with aftermarket junk and I'm sick of aftermarket junk. Even aftermarket alternators from the part stores suck. I replaced my alternator 3x under warranty and its Carquest. After 2 water pumps I went to Napa and made sure it was oem equivalent with steel parts like oem and not some plastic junk. Don't get me started on the heater core I replaced 3x and ended up going to oem for. The cv axles have been at least once a year thing. I made sure my starter was oem and I only use a good AGM battery. If these Moog wheel hubs go bad I'm going to SKF, looks like they made the oem mopars. It's just stupid how careful you have to watch parts anymore. Im sick of replacing CV axles and wheel hub assemblies lol. I was stupidly picky on just my floor jack. Ended up with that Carlyle 3.5 ton because Sunex makes it for Napa and snagged it for $259. Torin makes the Duralast 3.25 ton but hell I don't know if I trust many Torin floor jacks. I do like their stands though. I don't like normal spring compressors either I've had the parts store rentals blow apart on me and the harbor freight ****, unless it's a c-clamp or a rubber mallet/prybar I don't trust it, though I beat the holy SNOT out of that Maddox ball joint tool and cups doing all these bushings it held up well even with an impact wrench on it.

Have either you or Blue done rear control arms? I don't have a sawzall yet to cut that bolt out on the driver side, but don't want to stick my Dremel in there with all the sparks, think my ingersoll rand air chisel can break the bolt? On the smaller top control arm is it just held in by the nut? I see that damn thing is way up in there lol.
 

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I'll reconfirm, dang I'm a confusing person. The shafts are oem that they rebuild just not the boots. They don't mess with aftermarket junk and I'm sick of aftermarket junk. Even aftermarket alternators from the part stores suck. I replaced my alternator 3x under warranty and its Carquest. After 2 water pumps I went to Napa and made sure it was oem equivalent with steel parts like oem and not some plastic junk. Don't get me started on the heater core I replaced 3x and ended up going to oem for. The cv axles have been at least once a year thing. I made sure my starter was oem and I only use a good AGM battery. If these Moog wheel hubs go bad I'm going to SKF, looks like they made the oem mopars. It's just stupid how careful you have to watch parts anymore. Im sick of replacing CV axles and wheel hub assemblies lol. I was stupidly picky on just my floor jack. Ended up with that Carlyle 3.5 ton because Sunex makes it for Napa and snagged it for $259. Torin makes the Duralast 3.25 ton but hell I don't know if I trust many Torin floor jacks. I do like their stands though. I don't like normal spring compressors either I've had the parts store rentals blow apart on me and the harbor freight ****, unless it's a c-clamp or a rubber mallet/prybar I don't trust it, though I beat the holy SNOT out of that Maddox ball joint tool and cups doing all these bushings it held up well even with an impact wrench on it.

Have either you or Blue done rear control arms? I don't have a sawzall yet to cut that bolt out on the driver side, but don't want to stick my Dremel in there with all the sparks, think my ingersoll rand air chisel can break the bolt? On the smaller top control arm is it just held in by the nut? I see that damn thing is way up in there lol.
yuuppp, can't agree more about aftermarket junk. Autoparts store remans and sensors have screwed me so many times...... I've got the Maddox coil spring compressors that i used to assemble my struts- while they did the job and didn't break...that threaded rod sure flexed a good bit and made me nervous the whole time! I really only needed the single use out of them, so i suppose they paid for themselves. I've got a good bit of Harbor Freight stuff, and so far nothing's really let me down. 20 Ton Press, Motorcycle lift, 2k Generator, Engine Support bar (must have to remove the belly pan on the 5.7s), Deep impact sockets, Electric 1/2" impact (not as strong as my pneumatic, but works for quick stuff), pressure washer, electric chain saw, lol....on and on and on....i expect any of it to fail me at any time, though, but most of it is stuff i'll rarely use or that i don't mind replacing once a year at the stupid cheap price. some of it actually is quality stuff. like their Predator inverter generators are actually rebranded Hondas. When Honda changed their design, HF bought the old design from them and put their stickers and cheap-ass spark plug in and ran with it. I question the accuracy of their Compression Tester for things like my 2 stroke bikes, but it's close enough to tell me my top end is in good shape or not.
Moog stuff has never let me down and is almost always better than OEM if you buy their higher tier stuff. I like how they always have a grease-able option with a grease nipple for stuff OEM never does which to me basically make it have an infinite lifespan. Otherwise, i use SKF for all my motorcycle/dirt bike seals when they have an option for me like fork seals, etc- really good stuff, for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Yes...i don't know who makes the coil spring compressor I got off Facebook brand new from someone who was clearing out her late husband's tools...but for $50 its insanely heavy duty and actually says to use impacts on it. It has the half sprinf cups and stuff all nice. A 20 ton press is probably in my future somewhere...had one before my fallout with my dad, used it for my struts and springs all the time it made life soooo easy lol.
 

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Have either you or Blue done rear control arms? I don't have a sawzall yet to cut that bolt out on the driver side, but don't want to stick my Dremel in there with all the sparks, think my ingersoll rand air chisel can break the bolt? On the smaller top control arm is it just held in by the nut? I see that damn thing is way up in there lol.
My rear lower control arms were upgraded when I had the complete 4 inch Superlift kit installed;

Hence, one of the reasons why I said you should install the whole superlift kit and not just the front components;

The complete kits upgrades the rear lower control arms, rear springs & rear shocks and some of the mounting brackets;









 

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Have either you or Blue done rear control arms? I don't have a sawzall yet to cut that bolt out on the driver side, but don't want to stick my Dremel in there with all the sparks, think my ingersoll rand air chisel can break the bolt? On the smaller top control arm is it just held in by the nut? I see that damn thing is way up in there lol.
Oops, missed this at the end of your other post--- I have not done anything with my rear control arms. I just notched the gas tank skid plate to clear the driver's upper arm. My lift isn't as big as you guys' are so i didn't really need to change those out. Still needed a track bar and felt better about getting extended sway bar links. I had no luck with a sawzall cutting the bolt on my front lower control arm...ate up 3 blades and barely did any work to the bolt. I ended up using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel. I had to get my wife to help for a 2nd set of hands, but we were able to pry the clevis open enough that i didn't risk cutting it. I didn't care about the control arm since i was replacing it with a fully greasable upgraded one.

My rear lower control arms were upgraded when I had the complete 4 inch Superlift kit installed;

Hence, one of the reasons why I said you should install the whole superlift kit and not just the front components;

The complete kits upgrades the rear lower control arms, rear springs & rear shocks and some of the mounting brackets;
Thanks for the pics!! Nice to actually see what a SL rear end looks like for real, lol. I've only seen the pictures in the install instructions. I can see where the brackets for the uppers makes sense now- it allows clearance for the gas tank AND prevents needing replacement arms....Hawkeyes said he had notched or bent arms from Core that are meant to clear the gas tank, so assuming he has no clearance issues, I'd argue his arms are a better deal than the SL brackets. Less points of flex and potential failure. Not saying the SL parts are junk....but as it goes- there are more parts involved, so there are more opportunities. Yes, more work up front getting the lengths set right, but after that i'd argue they'll be stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
In talking with Superlift techs one of the biggest reasons for brackets instead if the adjustable arms was cost...the kit was already super expensive adding adjustable arms would have put it over $3k they said.

I'll send pics tonight of my arms, core 4x4 fabs and bends the arms. So that's all good there. The T3 set as i think it was a currie Johnny joint on the adjustable side and a regular poly bushing beefy joint on the other side. But here's to hoping.

Wombler - would you install the adjustable end up or down? Lol
 

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In talking with Superlift techs one of the biggest reasons for brackets instead if the adjustable arms was cost...the kit was already super expensive adding adjustable arms would have put it over $3k they said.

I'll send pics tonight of my arms, core 4x4 fabs and bends the arms. So that's all good there. The T3 set as i think it was a currie Johnny joint on the adjustable side and a regular poly bushing beefy joint on the other side. But here's to hoping.

Wombler - would you install the adjustable end up or down? Lol
Cost makes a lot of sense....having those johnny joints on the ends also make the Cores a much better option!

I chose to put the adjustable end down...i actually got hung up for a while trying to decide that myself, lol. There was no good documentation or pictures anywhere. Other bars on other vehicles wasn't consistent either.
My decision ended up being based on:
A) it was easier to get to the grease nipple with it that way
B) if i needed to adjust it more, it was easier to get to, and
C) that put the sticker right side up! 😆
 

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Discussion Starter #34
You got the core arms too? Mine didn't come with stickers on them or I would have lined it up according to the sticker lol.
 

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You got the core arms too? Mine didn't come with stickers on them or I would have lined it up according to the sticker lol.
ohh, no- sorry. i thought you were asking about my track bar, lol. not really sure where I got that idea from :rolleyes:

If your arms are straight i don't think it matters- just like my track bar. I'd weight off accessibility of any grease nipples if there are any. otherwise maybe do the threaded side UP, especially on the lowers so there's less of a chance of something hitting and possibly messing up the threads?
If the arms are curved, then I suppose it should matter and if it isn't obvious, i'd get ahold of Core to confirm...
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I was going to get the trackbar but I already centered mine 4 years ago with the superlift bracket in the rear. Ill match the bends and make sure the lowers that are straight go up as you mentioned about the threads.
 

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I was going to get the trackbar but I already centered mine 4 years ago with the superlift bracket in the rear. Ill match the bends and make sure the lowers that are straight go up as you mentioned about the threads.
ya, if you got their bracket you don't need a track bar (y)
 

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Thanks for the pics!! Nice to actually see what a SL rear end looks like for real, lol. I've only seen the pictures in the install instructions. I can see where the brackets for the uppers makes sense now- it allows clearance for the gas tank AND prevents needing replacement arms....Hawkeyes said he had notched or bent arms from Core that are meant to clear the gas tank, so assuming he has no clearance issues, I'd argue his arms are a better deal than the SL brackets. Less points of flex and potential failure. Not saying the SL parts are junk....but as it goes- there are more parts involved, so there are more opportunities. Yes, more work up front getting the lengths set right, but after that i'd argue they'll be stronger.
No problem @Wombler.

I wasn't trying to debate the quality of the core arms (to be honest, I've never heard of them before) and I'm certainly not here to argue anything;

I just thought it made more sense to use all the compenents of the Superlift kit together, since they were actually engineered & designed, to fit & work together properly.

Call me crazy I guess....LOL.

I've had my 4 inch Superlift for a little more than a year and half now and I've had absolutely, ZERO problems with it.

I already had the JBA Upper Control Arms for lifted XKs (Part # JBA-6.7.00-SLB) installed, prior to getting the Super-lift.

The only thing I added in addition to the 4 inch Superlift kit was Moog Front Lower Control arms - because my stock LCA bushings were shot.

I had the Moog LCAs installed at the same time as the Super-lift, at the recommendation of my 4x4 shop.
 
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