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I was wondeing if anyone has done this? I know the Commanders are alltime four wheel drive, but is there a kit or has anyone ever attempted to switch it? I had a K5 blazer that was full time 4 wheel drive and I swithched out the hubs for locking ones and some other stuff and now I had it in 2 wheel drive until I needed the 4X4.
Anyone, thoughts, pros, cons or am I just crazy I know I'm already MAD:pillepalle:
 

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What is the reasoning on wanting to be able to put in in 2wd? If its for gas mileage it really wont help because when the front wheels spin so do the cv axles. I wish we had a part time transfer case with a 2wd option just to mess around with it.
 

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There has to be an option out there because the SRT8 GC's Ive seen have converted to PT 2wd, I think there is another transfer case for this but Im not sure on the cost or effectiveness for us XK owners who wheel. I would go to a SRT8 forum and see, Im pretty sure they run QDII 4wd system so not sure how anything would transfer over.. Just a thought I know I wouldnt bother..
 

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The SRT 8 uses the same transmission and transfer case as the v6 commanders and grand cherokee's. Thats the NAG1 transmission and NV140 T-case (QT I). They dont come in QD II. I dont think they were swapping out the transfer cases in the SRT 8. I think it was something to do with the wiring to trick the transfer case so it doesnt lock so power doesnt get sent to the front end.
 

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I knew they shared tranny with V6 didnt know transfer case too.. Im assuming then anyone with those two could possibly mess with the wiring to? Ive read somewhere they can control it based on application, like street, track etc..
 

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I knew they shared tranny with V6 didnt know transfer case too.. Im assuming then anyone with those two could possibly mess with the wiring to? Ive read somewhere they can control it based on application, like street, track etc..
They don't have the same transfercase. The V6 has the NV140 and the SRT8 uses the NV146. The NV146 is a single speed transfercase that locks up with a clutch pack like the NV245, but again no low gear.
 

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Atlas :)
I was stating to look into the Rubicon JK's transfercase for a swap. Seems like it MIGHT work but mating it to the transmission isn't a direct bolt in. If I remember correctly the output shaft from the transmission is to short. Might be away around it.
I have no idea how the computers are going to work out yet.

Not worth the effort for gas savings though.
 

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They don't have the same transfercase. The V6 has the NV140 and the SRT8 uses the NV146. The NV146 is a single speed transfercase that locks up with a clutch pack like the NV245, but again no low gear.
Hmmm I could have swore the SRT8 had the NV140. I wonder why they would have two different transfer cases for a vehicle that doesnt have 4 low?
 

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I thought so, would be interesting though if there was a simple way to make it 2wd, Ive seen many srt8s in Fla running 2wd.. Maybe computer upgrade?
 

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Ok so doing some research on the SRT8 forum, those guys are removing the transfer case pump and front shaft.. They do get a light saying service 4wd but no harm has been reported to the car or its function, besides not being able to launch in 1st or 2nd.. Now Im not sure you can do this to our XKs, but if someone tries it let me know!!!
 

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Ok so doing some research on the SRT8 forum, those guys are removing the transfer case pump and front shaft.. They do get a light saying service 4wd but no harm has been reported to the car or its function, besides not being able to launch in 1st or 2nd.. Now Im not sure you can do this to our XKs, but if someone tries it let me know!!!
Im not sure how they're able to do that. Their 4 wheel drive system must be much different then ours. On my XK, if you pull the front drive shaft and try to drive it the Jeep wont move in Drive or Reverse. I cant remember the exact reasoning but I believe it has something to do with the speed sensors/traction control. My buddy popped a cv out of the front diff on his 05 3.7 liter WK and same thing happened. The Jeep wouldnt move forward or reverse. That was a fun night trying to figure out what the issue was. Ripped apart the transfer case thinking that was the problem and come to find out the cv axle end just popped out from the differential enough to cause the problem. It must not have been pushed in far enough when he installed it.
 

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For crying out loud, DON'T DO IT!

I got talked into it on a '79 Dodge Power Wagon I had years ago. I gained about a measly 0.5 MPG, and the tires started cupping, it got stuck all the time in places that weren't a problem before, it was hard to control on gravel, etc. The kit included Warn locking hubs and all, too. I felt like I pretty much ruined the truck.

Full time 4x4's have a center differential. Pulling a drive shaft, or removing an axle, and the torque just goes to the easiest place to spin, and that's the "dead" drive line or axle. That's why they won't move. With a computer controlled center diff, the only way to drive is to go to low range which locks it out, or "fake out" the center diff clutch with a Hyperchips programmer.

There are too many advantages to full time 4x4 to want to convert. The center diff helps with snow & ice, as a locked center makes it "crab crawl" diagonally. A part time 4x4 is a PITA to turn on ice, where a full time 4x4 will just turn like its dry. That's because you don't end up with a tire on the front AND back pushing it sideways, where the full time will pull with a single tire.

Full time 4x4's are next to impossible to skid out on loose gravel/dirt for the same reasons. A part time 4x4 also has a slightly leading front end ratio to help keep it steering straight in-line, and that can fight it on turns. (usually about 0.5:1 faster in the front, and that's why they bind on pavement when locked in 4x4)

That center diff helps distribute torque, so it's hard to get stuck unless it's in extreme terrain. A locked center tends to make it dig down, where the full time 4x4 will shift torque back and forth and not dig in as easy.
 

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They definitely have completely different 4wd set ups because there is a setting in the computer called "dyno mode" which means you can put the Jeep on a 2wd dyno without the fronts spinning. This will ONLY work on the dyno and cannot be driven on the road, and no I dont know why. I read about 12 pages on it in the SRT8 forum and thats how everyone on of them is running 2wd. Apparently if there transfer case pumps goes, its in 2wd, hence why they pull it out along with the front drive shaft. They all said dont do it cause the Jeep is to much to handle for most people in 2wd plus you lose the ability to launch the thing 0-60 in 4secs!!! it'd be interesting to see what would happen if someone did it on an XK, but as you said it probably wont move, either way heres the answer to the original post
 

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If dyno mode only works on the dyno I bet it has something to do with the front tires not spinning. The reason dyno mode wouldnt work for normal driving is because the front speed sensors are picking up that the front tires are spinning.
 

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Probably, Ill tell you what tho, Im thinkin one day when this HEMI dies, a 6.4 VVT doesnt sound all that bad!! I know someone on here did the 6.1 swap and ran the V6 transfer and tranny, would that still work with QDII?
 

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Probably, Ill tell you what tho, Im thinkin one day when this HEMI dies, a 6.4 VVT doesnt sound all that bad!! I know someone on here did the 6.1 swap and ran the V6 transfer and tranny, would that still work with QDII?

I thought the guy who did the swap originally had the 5.7 liter hemi which blew a rod so he swapped in a 6.1 liter. If thats the guy your talking about then im pretty sure he used his original tranny and transfer case, not the v6 tranny. I know his QD II still worked with his 6.1 liter swap so I dont think it would be an issue. Do the 6.4 Liter SRT8's still use the NAG 1 Transmission??
 

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So had anyone tried to drive their Commoander with the front or rear driveshaft removed with the transfercase in 4low? Just want to know for sure if it will move, just in case I ever have problems out in the boonies and need to limp it home. Would rather not have the Jeep tell me to walk home.
 

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So had anyone tried to drive their Commoander with the front or rear driveshaft removed with the transfercase in 4low? Just want to know for sure if it will move, just in case I ever have problems out in the boonies and need to limp it home. Would rather not have the Jeep tell me to walk home.
I cant give you a definite yes or no since you have the hemi. It only takes like 15 min to drop the front drive shaft. Next time you get a few minutes to mess around with the XK pull the front shaft and try it out.
 
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