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Hi all, I just purchased a 2010 Jeep commander, I love it!
I have a problem with the tailgate glass, it won't open by pushing the button or the remote control. I removed the electronic latch yesterday and applied power, it worked just fine. I tested then the switch, and it works perfectly, but I have no power coming to the switch therefore to the latch retraction. I tried to find a fuse or something related to this circuit but was unsuccessful. What am i missing here? is there a fuse hiding somewhere specifically for this electronic latch retraction?

Thanks!!

Christian
 

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Is there a switch for it? Our release is only on the key since the switch itself on the hatch is broken. I have a new switch just no time to swap it out.
I was thinking maybe your keys button is not making good contact, but if it's not getting power I was reading there are some fuses in the engine bay that power something to the rear hatch although that may be the door lock they were talking about.


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I had that issue once, although I'm not much help, I figured it was a dead battery because my doors wouldn't lock/unlock either, even though they made a noise like they were trying. Got a new battery, doors worked fine, the glass hatch still didn't. Until one day it did. no problems since. I have had many weird electrical problems with my jeep over the years that I've had it, none of them permanent.
 

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I have had many weird electrical problems with my jeep over the years that I've had it, none of them permanent.
I juts recently had an issue with mine.

I was deployed in the Persian Gulf & in the vicinity of the horn of Africa for 5 months.

When I came back the end of July, my driver's side power seat didn't work.

Never had a problem with it previously, so, I just assumed it was an intermittent connection somewhere.

I started digging around underneath that seat and imagine my surprise when I found 6 or 7 different electrical connections!!

I never expected to see that many electrical connections underneath that seat.

Anyway, I took them all part and checked them out, didn't see any obvious corrosion, so blew some of the dust & crap out of them with some compressed air and then reconnected them - I must have jiggled the right wire because it worked - but only for about 3 hours and then it died again.

Determined to try and figure it out, I finally got around to getting the switch itself out and there were 2 more connections behind the plastic panel that the switch was mounted to.

The culprit was the larger of those 2 connections - I disconnected it, blew it out with some compressed air and shifted the wiring going to that connection so it sat in a different position and then put the switch back in and it's been working like a charm since - that's been about 3 weeks now.

That's the only intermittent electrical problem I have had so far - knock wood.
 

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I juts recently had an issue with mine.

I was deployed in the Persian Gulf & in the vicinity of the horn of Africa for 5 months.

When I came back the end of July, my driver's side power seat didn't work.

Never had a problem with it previously, so, I just assumed it was an intermittent connection somewhere.

I started digging around underneath that seat and imagine my surprise when I found 6 or 7 different electrical connections!!

I never expected to see that many electrical connections underneath that seat.

Anyway, I took them all part and checked them out, didn't see any obvious corrosion, so blew some of the dust & crap out of them with some compressed air and then reconnected them - I must have jiggled the right wire because it worked - but only for about 3 hours and then it died again.

Determined to try and figure it out, I finally got around to getting the switch itself out and there were 2 more connections behind the plastic panel that the switch was mounted to.

The culprit was the larger of those 2 connections - I disconnected it, blew it out with some compressed air and shifted the wiring going to that connection so it sat in a different position and then put the switch back in and it's been working like a charm since - that's been about 3 weeks now.

That's the only intermittent electrical problem I have had so far - knock wood.
yea, on occasion my passenger window won't go up on my controls, then it will later, then neither will go up on my controls, they'll go down though, then full functionality will comeback. The worst though, was one day I was leaving the pet store, and it was hot "Turns on the A/C", nothing happens... WTF? alright I'll roll down the windows... nothing. Ok, something's weird. I make it to my first turn out the parking lot, throw on my turn signal, no click or feedback on my gage cluster. So i pull over turn off the jeep, pull the key and open the door to kill all power, and the problem was gone when I turned it back on, and I've never seen this particular problem since. This was about a year ago. So the electrical problems are weird.
 

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yea, on occasion my passenger window won't go up on my controls, then it will later, then neither will go up on my controls, they'll go down though, then full functionality will comeback. The worst though, was one day I was leaving the pet store, and it was hot "Turns on the A/C", nothing happens... WTF? alright I'll roll down the windows... nothing. Ok, something's weird. I make it to my first turn out the parking lot, throw on my turn signal, no click or feedback on my gage cluster. So i pull over turn off the jeep, pull the key and open the door to kill all power, and the problem was gone when I turned it back on, and I've never seen this particular problem since. This was about a year ago. So the electrical problems are weird.
Sounds like Gremlins....LOL.

All joking aside, that's really strange though.

I've never had anything to that extreme happen, thank God.
 

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well thankfully like I said, never seen it since, but we're getting just a little off topic here, sorry OP. Bottom line in my opinion, commanders have some weird electrical problems. It may fix itself, like mine did, or it may not. I hope you find the issue though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the inputs. I'll try fuse #7 and the wires under the seat. I just got back from the beach, had a full roof cargo and full hitch cargo. There was no way to open the tailgate without first removing everything from the cargo... It would had been nice if that window worked...
 

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With the lift gate opened you will see a rubber sleeve about one inch in diameter up by the roof. Inside that sleeve are all the wires for the stuff on the lift gate, like the power for the glass release. Those wire bundles on the lift gate and doors are famous for breaking over time and a good place to start. There is a smaller wire for the 3rd brake light. Anyway with the lift gate up - press the button to release the glass, if not working try wiggling the one inch bundle of wires while holding the button. If it works only when wiggling there is probably a broken wire in that bundle. You could cut it open and try a wire at a time to narrow it down. I have the service manual with all the wire colors and functions, but it would take me an hour or two to locate which wire it might be by color. Good luck
 
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Discussion Starter #11
With the lift gate opened you will see a rubber sleeve about one inch in diameter up by the roof. Inside that sleeve are all the wires for the stuff on the lift gate, like the power for the glass release. Those wire bundles on the lift gate and doors are famous for breaking over time and a good place to start. There is a smaller wire for the 3rd brake light. Anyway with the lift gate up - press the button to release the glass, if not working try wiggling the one inch bundle of wires while holding the button. If it works only when wiggling there is probably a broken wire in that bundle. You could cut it open and try a wire at a time to narrow it down. I have the service manual with all the wire colors and functions, but it would take me an hour or two to locate which wire it might be by color. Good luck
Good idea, I'll google the wiring diagram and try and follow the wires from the button all the way to the power supply, as much as possible without cutting open any bundles. I was also thinking last night, if I can't fin the problem, I can just jump a wire from the tag lights, and just turn on the lights every time I need to open the window... :grin2:
 

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OK I had some time so found the schematic, fairly simple. shown below.
But here is an explanation of the circuit.
On the Junction Block - the part under the dash just left of the steering column, On the fuse block there - fuse #7 - 15A powers the Flipper Glass (that is its technical name) release. It then feeds a relay on that Junction block. Off the relay is a Orange/Gray wire going to the liftgate to power the flipper release. Also feeding the relay is a Light green/ Orange wire - this wire is probably from the switch on the liftgate. Concentrate on those 2 wires and fuse #7 under the dash.
There may also be bad connections on the Junction Block - it has 3 plugs for all the circuits it handles - a lot of them.
Search this forum for "Junction Block"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK I had some time so found the schematic, fairly simple. shown below.
But here is an explanation of the circuit.
On the Junction Block - the part under the dash just left of the steering column, On the fuse block there - fuse #7 - 15A powers the Flipper Glass (that is its technical name) release. It then feeds a relay on that Junction block. Off the relay is a Orange/Gray wire going to the liftgate to power the flipper release. Also feeding the relay is a Light green/ Orange wire - this wire is probably from the switch on the liftgate. Concentrate on those 2 wires and fuse #7 under the dash.
There may also be bad connections on the Junction Block - it has 3 plugs for all the circuits it handles - a lot of them.
Search this forum for "Junction Block"
You rock man... Thanks!
 
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