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Discussion Starter #1
hi,

I bought commander 2006 5.7 hemi around 2 months back. As it was winters 2 months back I never had this problem of temp gauge. From last 2 weeks as temp of the city is rising, temp gauge of my commander suddenly goes up and when the car starts moving it comes down after few minutes. I went to the dealer and mechanic there told me its very normal and all HEMIs are like this the gauge goes up and down its not to worry.
I want to ask you guys if the same happens to you, if the car is not moving the gauge reaches very near to H ... only when the vehicle starts moving it comes down.
Secondly when the gauge starts rising the fan starts which creates alot of noise, fan will stop only when the gauge will drop and then the sound becomes normal.
 

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I cry BS to the dealer's diagnosis!!!

My hemi never behaved that way. I can't even say the fan is any louder than any other vehicle I've owned. ...and I just topped 102k mi today.

Perhaps your thermostat is sticking or the fan isn't turning on at the correct time.

Good luck, and keep us informed.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
air pocket ??? what is air pocket ? and u mean i have air pocket all the time ???
im posting a pic of RPM and gauge for u SAL-XK
 

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air pocket ??? what is air pocket ? and u mean i have air pocket all the time ???
im posting a pic of RPM and gauge for u SAL-XK
Ya if you had air in the system it would cause problems like over heating and stuff but you never said the system was touched so you shouldn't have air in there. the first two parts I would change are the thermostat and water pump. change the thermostat first because its cheap enough to do. Next time also try putting it in neutral and give it some gas and see if it starts to cool. Also inspect your belt and idler pulley as well
 

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if he just bought it 2 months ago the previous owner could have serviced the coolant and not burped out all the air and it didnt present itself till the weather got hot im just saying it dosnt cost anything to remove the radiator cap and run the engine till it gets to operating temp then top off as needed and put the cap back on. still think that is the most probable cause of intermitent over heating i see it all the time
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sure I can try what you are suggesting but what do u mean by operating temp ? and top off ?
 

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sure I can try what you are suggesting but what do u mean by operating temp ? and top off ?
Take the radiator cap off when engine is cool, run engine till it warms up enough to open the thermostat - may take 20 minutes. Then see if you need to add coolant to fill the radiator all the way up - to the TOP of the radiator filler tube where the cap fits on..

My Hemi never does that, my fan is quiet. Fan noise? - you may have a bad fan? Is the fan hitting anything?
 

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run it for 20 minutes or so til the temp comes up to normal about 190 or so with the cap off then fill radiator to top if needed and reinstall cap. that should burp out any air if there is any in there. if that dosnt work then worry about spending money on parts
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Take the radiator cap off when engine is cool, run engine till it warms up enough to open the thermostat - may take 20 minutes. Then see if you need to add coolant to fill the radiator all the way up - to the TOP of the radiator filler tube where the cap fits on..

My Hemi never does that, my fan is quiet. Fan noise? - you may have a bad fan? Is the fan hitting anything?
NO fan is not hitting nythn ... its just like the fan is not working and when the temp rises it starts working. SAL-XK mentioned in one of his posts about the loudness of the fan thn how come ur fan does not have any noise. may be ur living in a cool place where temp never rises.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
run it for 20 minutes or so til the temp comes up to normal about 190 or so with the cap off then fill radiator to top if needed and reinstall cap. that should burp out any air if there is any in there. if that dosnt work then worry about spending money on parts
mechanic at dealer said its common in hemi, if any part has to be changed he would have told me
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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btw all u guys are living in moderate weather I guess ...
It was 90F here yesterday :flame: and gets in the 90's quite often in the summer. Gets to below 0F in the winter
 

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REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM

3.7L


1. Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.
2. Fill cooling system with the antifreeze mixture (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION). Fill pressure bottle to service line and install cap.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to cooling system.
3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with pressure bottle cap in place.
4. Add coolant to pressure bottle as necessary. Only add coolant to the pressure bottle when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion.


4.7L









1. Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed).
CAUTION: Failure to purge air from the cooling system can result in an overheating condition and severe engine damage.
2. Remove the cooling system bleed plug from the radiator upper hose inlet housing. Fill cooling system with the antifreeze mixture (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION), until coolant begins coming out of the cooling system bleed hole. Install the cooling system bleed plug. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark.
3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place.
4. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank.
5. Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion. To purge the cooling system of all air, this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold engine) must be performed three times. Add necessary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark after each cool down period.


5.7L


1. Close radiator draincock. Hand tighten only.
2. Install engine block drain plugs, if removed. Coat the threads with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon.
WARNING: When installing drain hose to air bleed valve, route hose away from accessory drive belts, accessory drive pulleys, and electric cooling fan motors.
NOTE: It may be necessary to install a bleed fitting on the 5.7L engine.
3. Attach a 1.5 - 2 m (4 - 6 ft.) long 6 mm (1/4 inch.) ID clear hose to bleeder fitting
Plug Location (5.7L): Located on the front of the water outlet housing at the front of engine.
4. Route hose away from the accessory drive belt, drive pulleys and electric cooling fan. Place the other end of hose into a clean container. The hose will prevent coolant from contacting the accessory drive belt when bleeding the system during the refilling operation.
NOTE: It is imperative that the cooling system air bleed valve be opened before any coolant is added to the cooling system. Failure to open the bleed valve first will result in an incomplete fill of the system.
5. 5.7L ENGINE - Install a threaded and barbed fitting (1/4 - 18 npt) into water pump housing.
6. Attach Filling Aid Funnel Tool 8195 to pressure bottle filler neck.
7. Using hose pinch-off pliers, pinch overflow hose that connects between the two chambers of the coolant bottle (2).
8. Open bleed fitting.
9. Pour the coolant (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION) into the larger section of Filling Aid Funnel (the smaller section of funnel is to allow air to escape).
10. Slowly fill the cooling system until a steady stream of coolant flows from the hose attached to the bleed valve.
11. Close the bleed valve and continue filling system to the top of the Filling Aid Funnel Tool 8195.
12. Remove pinch-off pliers from overflow hose.
13. Allow the coolant in Filling Funnel to drain into overflow chamber of the pressure bottle.
14. Remove Filling Aid Funnel Tool 8195. Install cap on coolant pressure bottle.
15. Remove hose from bleed valve.
16. Install fitting into thermostat housing. Coat the threads with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon.
17. Start engine and run at 1500 - 2000 RPM for 30 minutes.
NOTE: The engine cooling system will push any remaining air into the coolant bottle within about an hour of normal driving. As a result, a drop in coolant level in the pressure bottle may occur. If the engine cooling system overheats and pushes coolant into the overflow side of the coolant bottle, this coolant will be sucked back into the cooling system ONLY IF THE PRESSURE CAP IS LEFT ON THE BOTTLE. Removing the pressure cap breaks the vacuum path between the two bottle sections and the coolant will not return to cooling system.
18. Shut off engine allow it to cool down for 30 minutes. This permits coolant to be drawn into the pressure chamber.
19. With engine COLD, observe coolant level in pressure chamber. Coolant level should be within MIN and MAX marks. Adjust coolant level as necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Went to the dealer ...
the guy said if there is air how come u were driving the vehicle ... u cannot drive the vehicle more thn 10 mins if there is air the pipe will blow ....
well he took the vehicle and agreed there is some problem ...
lets c wot the problem is in few days time ...
 

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LOL dude its pretty hot and humid in north Carolina and don't get much hotter then crawling in 4LO for hours climbing rocks. The loudness of the fan is my observation of spotting the hemi guys off roading I'm sure it's quiter from in the XK but still louder then most I guess LOL. Good luck with the mechanic one thing we know for sure it's not normal.
 
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