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Discussion Starter #1
After I ditched the idea to do a HEMI swap into my other Commander, I bought one with a HEMI in it. I want to be able to tow a camper in the mountains, to go mountain biking.

Backstory: Check out my First Post and Need Some Help Getting Started to understand where I started, on this adventure. During the sourcing of swap over parts, a recycle parts man suggested that I check out online auctions and just buy a HEMI Commander to start with. Well, I listened to him and investigated it and followed his advice.

I ended up buying the following Jeep, site unseen, with water and mechanical damage, but moves under its own power, and a clean title. Remember, I have a spare 2019 Dodge Ram HEMI engine in my garage, with 30,000 miles on it. What do I have to lose, right?

This thread is to chronicle the journey for the benefit of others.

I'll attach a few pictures, and then follow up over the coming weeks, with my work progress.

I washed the exterior first, just to see where we start.
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Discussion Starter #3
So as you can see the exterior condition of the vehicle is pretty nice. The inside, however was full of water in the front and second row floors. It smelled awful and had moldy looking stuff growing in the carpet.

I cannot tell where the water came from. There is no waterline in the door, and the underside does not appear to have been flooded, but I suppose it could have been. I do not see water evidence under the second row seats, so I believe it was contained to the lower level.

I converted the Shop Vac to wet use, and vacuumed out all the nasty water. I tried to let it dry out a few days with the sunny days and the doors open. This was just not going to happen. I took out the front and second row seats, and pulled out the carpet. I will replace it, once I begin working on this one, after I finish the 4.7 Commander.

I put the front seats back in and plugged them up. So far literally everything works. We have had rain, and no water is coming in anywhere. There are no apparent interior leaks from the sunroof. I am going to keep it without carpet for a while, once I get it up and fully operational, to be able to easily inspect for water leaks that could be due to the many, many known OEM leak sources.

The seats were all really nice. In contrast to the 4.7 Commander, I can tell that most of the life of this vehicle had been spent under good care. I think the immediate Previous Owner, was a dirty slob, though. At least according to the history report, they didn't own it very long, before getting auctioned around.

The only thing I have found on the interior that does not seem to be working correctly, is the drivers side window. It functions fine, but when it reaches the top position, it immediately begins to roll itself down again. I have found that I can jog it up till it is at the top, but not at the max, and it will stay there.

Next post I'll talk about what happened when I turned the key.
 

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So as you can see the exterior condition of the vehicle is pretty nice. The inside, however was full of water in the front and second row floors. It smelled awful and had moldy looking stuff growing in the carpet.

I cannot tell where the water came from. There is no waterline in the door, and the underside does not appear to have been flooded, but I suppose it could have been. I do not see water evidence under the second row seats, so I believe it was contained to the lower level.

I converted the Shop Vac to wet use, and vacuumed out all the nasty water. I tried to let it dry out a few days with the sunny days and the doors open. This was just not going to happen. I took out the front and second row seats, and pulled out the carpet. I will replace it, once I begin working on this one, after I finish the 4.7 Commander.

I put the front seats back in and plugged them up. So far literally everything works. We have had rain, and no water is coming in anywhere. There are no apparent interior leaks from the sunroof. I am going to keep it without carpet for a while, once I get it up and fully operational, to be able to easily inspect for water leaks that could be due to the many, many known OEM leak sources.

The seats were all really nice. In contrast to the 4.7 Commander, I can tell that most of the life of this vehicle had been spent under good care. I think the immediate Previous Owner, was a dirty slob, though. At least according to the history report, they didn't own it very long, before getting auctioned around.

The only thing I have found on the interior that does not seem to be working correctly, is the drivers side window. It functions fine, but when it reaches the top position, it immediately begins to roll itself down again. I have found that I can jog it up till it is at the top, but not at the max, and it will stay there.

Next post I'll talk about what happened when I turned the key.
Rollback the sunroof, you should see a drainage tray on the front. You can test if it drains correctly by pouring water into it. if you're not seeing the water drain beneath the Jeep then your line are clogged, but if water is getting the the floor then the lines are broken. If they are clogged use one of those ear syringes to reach the small drainage outlets to blow out the lines, here is a link
Amazon.com: ROSENICE Rubber Suction Ear Syringe Bulb Ear Washing Squeeze Bulb Laboratory Tool (Blue): Health & Personal Care
If you don't want to get one you can pull out the trim on the floor on each side to pull the lines out and blow them out that way
 

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Discussion Starter #5
RoninSpectre, thank you so much. This is super helpful. I will do exactly what you said. It probably will be a little while, because I promised myself to finish the 4.7 Commander project before working on this one. The exciting thoughts of renovating the HEMI Commander are what keep me going on the 4.7.
 

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RoninSpectre, thank you so much. This is super helpful. I will do exactly what you said. It probably will be a little while, because I promised myself to finish the 4.7 Commander project before working on this one. The exciting thoughts of renovating the HEMI Commander are what keep me going on the 4.7.
The sunroof had leaked pretty badly with the previous owner of my Jeep and hid the fact by spray painting the carpeting. I only realized it did leak after a heavy rain. Clearing out the lines did the trick, but the carpeting needs to be replaced. Once you do start to project of replacing the floor carpeting it would be great to see pick and how you go about doing it seeing as I have to do it eventually myself. Oh and Cryhster does sell this, but it isn't cheap, here is a link
2006 Jeep Commander BASE 3.7L V6 4X4 Carpet. Floor. [j1], [j3]. Trim: [all trim codes] color: [khaki] - 1GL60ZJ8AB | Factory Chrysler Parts, Bartow FL
 

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Discussion Starter #7
RoninSpectre, I will certainly have to backtrack a bit, but I am happy to do it. Forums like this one are a invaluable for specialty vehicles such as ours, and I want to contribute as I go along. I will take a picture of my carpet out of the vehicle tomorrow, and indicate a few connection points to watch out for under the center tunnel.

There is a FSM description for removing the carpet beginning on 23-159. For removing the second row the FSM standard is 23-269.Let me know if you do not have the FSM. I will say that I only removed the seats. I did not remove any of the other trim panels, as I was able to lift enough of the trip to work the carpet out.

It may be a different story when I put a new one back in.

BTW, are you in the Netherlands, or from the Netherlands? I see your flag. I am usually over there for work at least once per year, in the Apeldoorn area. I have several friends there.
 

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RoninSpectre, I will certainly have to backtrack a bit, but I am happy to do it. Forums like this one are a invaluable for specialty vehicles such as ours, and I want to contribute as I go along. I will take a picture of my carpet out of the vehicle tomorrow, and indicate a few connection points to watch out for under the center tunnel.

There is a FSM description for removing the carpet beginning on 23-159. For removing the second row the FSM standard is 23-269.Let me know if you do not have the FSM. I will say that I only removed the seats. I did not remove any of the other trim panels, as I was able to lift enough of the trip to work the carpet out.

It may be a different story when I put a new one back in.

BTW, are you in the Netherlands, or from the Netherlands? I see your flag. I am usually over there for work at least once per year, in the Apeldoorn area. I have several friends there.
I don't have the FSM, but could certainly use it once I do get to replacing the carpet. Not a fun prospect I look forward to. At the moment I have more pressing concerns like an oil leak that is dripping onto the exhause manifold and burning that up. I suspect that it's a bad head gasket. Then I need to replace the catalytic converter as well. And sorry about the Netherlands flag. I use a VPN, but I'm in the US. I guess the little flag changes depending on your IP address, lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do yourself a favor and just get a valve cover gasket, first. It is very possible you are leaking oil from the valve cover.
This is not a bad job. You just have to get the wiring out of the way, and you need to make sure you have a really long extension and a universal joint for your socket. I used a 20" extension. If you do a head gasket, you will need both anyway. Make sure you use a shop vac, or go use a vac at a car wash and really get any dirt / leaves / rat nests cleaned out really well. you no not want anything falling in the valve bank.

If you do end up doing a head gasket. Let me know. I will be glad to be a resource for you. I just rebuilt my 4.7 top end and it is nearly identical to the 3.7, just two more cylinders.

That is pretty funny about the flag.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey, RoninSpectre!

I have not yet sourced a replacement carpet. I am running on the bare floor for the time being, while I focus on finishing the 4.7 project. I am a little late getting back to you with pictures, but, for the benefit of all, I have some pictures of my removed carpet, as promised.

The circled areas are the areas where I found fasteners under the trim, or were tight getting out. The top of this picture is the firewall side. Note the proximity of the plastic fastener holes with the front seat mounting bolts.

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Discussion Starter #12
By the way, the white stuff on the carpet is baking soda I sprinkled on to try to deodorize it, before I decided fully on replacing the carpet.
 
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Hey, RoninSpectre!

I have not yet sourced a replacement carpet. I am running on the bare floor for the time being, while I focus on finishing the 4.7 project. I am a little late getting back to you with pictures, but, for the benefit of all, I have some pictures of my removed carpet, as promised.

The circled areas are the areas where I found fasteners under the trim. The top of this picture is the firewall side. Note the proximity of the plastic fastener holes with the front seat mounting bolts.

View attachment 41051 View attachment 41052

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Thank you very much for this. As pricey as it would be to get the carpet from Mopar I don't really think you have a choice short of having a custom carpet put it and do the cutting yourself if you have the patience for it. Honestly it's low priority at the moment until I get the oil leak fixed and catalytic converter replaced. Still this is a good insight none the less.
 

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After I ditched the idea to do a HEMI swap into my other Commander, I bought one with a HEMI in it. I want to be able to tow a camper in the mountains, to go mountain biking.

Backstory: Check out my First Post and Need Some Help Getting Started to understand where I started, on this adventure. During the sourcing of swap over parts, a recycle parts man suggested that I check out online auctions and just buy a HEMI Commander to start with. Well, I listened to him and investigated it and followed his advice.

I ended up buying the following Jeep, site unseen, with water and mechanical damage, but moves under its own power, and a clean title. Remember, I have a spare 2019 Dodge Ram HEMI engine in my garage, with 30,000 miles on it. What do I have to lose, right?

This thread is to chronicle the journey for the benefit of others.

I'll attach a few pictures, and then follow up over the coming weeks, with my work progress.

I washed the exterior first, just to see where we start.
View attachment 41044
Sounds like a heck of a project, looking forward to following; There is a fix for your driver's side window issue, I'll see if I can dig it up for you.
 

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After I ditched the idea to do a HEMI swap into my other Commander, I bought one with a HEMI in it. I want to be able to tow a camper in the mountains, to go mountain biking.

Backstory: Check out my First Post and Need Some Help Getting Started to understand where I started, on this adventure. During the sourcing of swap over parts, a recycle parts man suggested that I check out online auctions and just buy a HEMI Commander to start with. Well, I listened to him and investigated it and followed his advice.

I ended up buying the following Jeep, site unseen, with water and mechanical damage, but moves under its own power, and a clean title. Remember, I have a spare 2019 Dodge Ram HEMI engine in my garage, with 30,000 miles on it. What do I have to lose, right?

This thread is to chronicle the journey for the benefit of others.

I'll attach a few pictures, and then follow up over the coming weeks, with my work progress.

I washed the exterior first, just to see where we start.
View attachment 41044
Sounds like a heck of a project, looking forward to following; There is a fix for your driver's side window issue, I'll see if I can dig it up for you.

EDIT: @Sniperdoc; Here is the procedure to fix the auto-up on your driver's side door window; See the attached .PDF
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here's a quick update.

I decided to sell the 4.7 Cmdr. I have decided to fix this 5.7 one up for myself, as a year long restoration project.

I identified the source of the original flood. Sun roof. During a torrential down pour, I had the vehicle slope downward with the front toward the bottom of a hill and all that water from the massive roof caught on the back seal opening and overflowed the sun roof hoses and put three inches of water in the passenger side. I cleaned out the drain hoses and took out the accordion covers and adjusted the glass so that the seal actually seals better to better prevent gunk from getting in the opening.

New carpet installed, and a full set of weather tech floor liners are installed.

Have had no less than five coolant leaks to repair. Hey, when they get this old, the rubber and plastic just wears out. It's part of life.
1.Radiator hose burst (top) - replaced it and the bottom one
2.Heater hose tee burst - replaced both hose assemblies
3.T-Stat Housing was leaking - replaced the housing and t-stat
4.Big threaded plastic radiator plug at the radiator cap neck was leaking - put a new o-ring in it and some thread sealant. (I will make a separate post of this fix because I had read a lot of incorrect hearsay on this type of leak).
5.The coolant pipe from the heater hose to the water pump (under the intake manifold) was leaking at the o-ring. I replaced both supply and return pipes. The pipes had completely corroded to where I could see through the pipe under the o-ring, it was actually a hole in the pipe that was leaking. That was fun.

The EGR valve was throwing a code. The engine would lag coming our of park and into drive, then all the sudden give a power surge. Replacing this valve fixed the surge. This was a P0404 code, and a P0406, for reference. I also replaced the gasket, the paper pipe gasket and the seal for the pipe to the intake manifold.

I replaced all four MDS solenoids. That fixed a P3425 code "Cylinder 4 deactivation control circuit" code that came up after the EGR code was fixed.

While at it I replaced all the intake gaskets, of course.

And the best part is that I did the Rubicon wheel swap! I absolutely love them. They are 2018 Wrangler Granite 17" wheels with 245/75/17 Goodyear Wranglers. No lift yet and no rubbing at all. I guess I got lucky.
41771
 

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Here's a quick update.

I decided to sell the 4.7 Cmdr. I have decided to fix this 5.7 one up for myself, as a year long restoration project.

I identified the source of the original flood. Sun roof. During a torrential down pour, I had the vehicle slope downward with the front toward the bottom of a hill and all that water from the massive roof caught on the back seal opening and overflowed the sun roof hoses and put three inches of water in the passenger side. I cleaned out the drain hoses and took out the accordion covers and adjusted the glass so that the seal actually seals better to better prevent gunk from getting in the opening.

New carpet installed, and a full set of weather tech floor liners are installed.

Have had no less than five coolant leaks to repair. Hey, when they get this old, the rubber and plastic just wears out. It's part of life.
1.Radiator hose burst (top) - replaced it and the bottom one
2.Heater hose tee burst - replaced both hose assemblies
3.T-Stat Housing was leaking - replaced the housing and t-stat
4.Big threaded plastic radiator plug at the radiator cap neck was leaking - put a new o-ring in it and some thread sealant. (I will make a separate post of this fix because I had read a lot of incorrect hearsay on this type of leak).
5.The coolant pipe from the heater hose to the water pump (under the intake manifold) was leaking at the o-ring. I replaced both supply and return pipes. The pipes had completely corroded to where I could see through the pipe under the o-ring, it was actually a hole in the pipe that was leaking. That was fun.

The EGR valve was throwing a code. The engine would lag coming our of park and into drive, then all the sudden give a power surge. Replacing this valve fixed the surge. This was a P0404 code, and a P0406, for reference. I also replaced the gasket, the paper pipe gasket and the seal for the pipe to the intake manifold.

I replaced all four MDS solenoids. That fixed a P3425 code "Cylinder 4 deactivation control circuit" code that came up after the EGR code was fixed.

While at it I replaced all the intake gaskets, of course.

And the best part is that I did the Rubicon wheel swap! I absolutely love them. They are 2018 Wrangler Granite 17" wheels with 245/75/17 Goodyear Wranglers. No lift yet and no rubbing at all. I guess I got lucky.
@Sniperdoc;

That sounds like a lot of work - but well worth it I'm sure.

Those Rubi wheels look good;

How many miles are on your new XK?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Darn near 215,000. It is really running well at this point. I have had a death wobble once upon deceleration, with the old wheels. Not too worried about it since I will essentially replace everything next year.

Getting ready to change the Engine, T-Case, F/R Diff and Trans fluids + filters with Amsoil full synthetic, and Pentosin CHF power steering fluid. I use Wix filters. Thinking about putting a magnetic power steering fluid filter, since it is so critical. Doing the belt, water pump, tensioner, spark plugs, coils, and valve cover gaskets, too. Also installing a magnetic drain plug and getting an oil analysis on the engine. That will be it for this year.

Will do the brake fluid when I do the full brake job next year year, along with the full suspension rebuild, lift, UCA, lower ball joints, airbags. Still deciding on proactively changing the wheel bearings and half shafts at this time. Plan to put in the OME lift kit with Rocky Road trim leveler, JBA UCA, and airbags in the rear.
 

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Why the magnetic drain plug? I put in a "Fumoto" drain valve and it makes it sooo easy and clean to drain and change the oil. Been using it for over 5 years with no problems. Get the one with the nipple to attach a short plastic hose which I put into a 3 gallon oil container (drilled a hole in cap for hose).
VALVE Fumoto® USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves Fumoto # F106N for Hemi
OIL CONTAINER https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-FloTool-11849-Dispos-Oil-Recycle-Oil-Jug/20440560
PS most quick oil change places will not change the oil if the Fumoto valve is installed. "Not in there instructions"?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That is a pretty cool drain plug. I had not seen that before.
 
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