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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Mickey, would you be so kind as to link where and what you purchased?

Thanks bro!
Sorry for the pause... had to take a break after getting it fixed. I posted the link to another user on page 4 for the electronic microphone/stethoscope. As for the CV axle I bought that off of RockAuto.com which is an amazing place to get parts pretty cheap.
 

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Update on my version of vibration while accelerating. After replacing front driveshaft and front diff passenger side half shaft bushing it turned out to be the rear driveshaft. The rear u joint was BAD. Strange thing is that while the shaft was in place it had no discernible movement. When I unbolted it to check I was shocked at how bad the rear joint was and how the front joint was loose/sloppy. I initially thought it was the rear shaft. Lesson learned, follow your gut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Update on my version of vibration while accelerating. After replacing front driveshaft and front diff passenger side half shaft bushing it turned out to be the rear driveshaft. The rear u joint was BAD. Strange thing is that while the shaft was in place it had no discernible movement. When I unbolted it to check I was shocked at how bad the rear joint was and how the front joint was loose/sloppy. I initially thought it was the rear shaft. Lesson learned, follow your gut.
Did you replace the driveshaft with OEM or steel? I ended up replacing with steel so I could service the u-joints in the future.
 

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Did you replace the driveshaft with OEM or steel? I ended up replacing with steel so I could service the u-joints in the future.

i replaced with steel as well. Serviceable and MUCH cheaper than OEM. Dealer now wants $1305.00 for the 52105760AF. Best wholesale price was $845 but delivery was 1-8 weeks! I went with steel for $440 overnighted to me. I had to get different bolts for the front because the oem bolt head flanges wouldn't clear the shoulders of the new u joint.It rides and runs great. It's amazing how you can not notice the ride slowly getting worse as the u-joints go bad. Now I have new D shafts the truck rides as smooth as when new and the Hemi feels more powerful. Assuming due to the response from new tight u joints.
 

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i replaced with steel as well. Serviceable and MUCH cheaper than OEM. Dealer now wants $1305.00 for the 52105760AF. Best wholesale price was $845 but delivery was 1-8 weeks! I went with steel for $440 overnighted to me. I had to get different bolts for the front because the oem bolt head flanges wouldn't clear the shoulders of the new u joint.It rides and runs great. It's amazing how you can not notice the ride slowly getting worse as the u-joints go bad. Now I have new D shafts the truck rides as smooth as when new and the Hemi feels more powerful. Assuming due to the response from new tight u joints.
Silly question but is "steel" the name of the company?

If so, could you post their contact information for others who may be interested?

Thanks.
 

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Silly question but is "steel" the name of the company?

If so, could you post their contact information for others who may be interested?

Thanks.
Big Blue

I was responding to Mickey when he asked if I "went with OEM or Steel". The name of the company I ordered from is Wholesaleimportparts.com. I found the name in another thread about driveshafts. They were very helpful and the shaft was well made. It rides great now.
 

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Big Blue

I was responding to Mickey when he asked if I "went with OEM or Steel". The name of the company I ordered from is Wholesaleimportparts.com. I found the name in another thread about driveshafts. They were very helpful and the shaft was well made. It rides great now.
O.K. Well I'll be the one to ask the silly question, not only for my own knowledge, but for others who may not know - what is the OEM driveshaft made from?

Not steel obviously.
 

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The OEM rear driveshaft is made of aluminum. The u-joints are staked in so are very difficult to rebuild. Most driveshaft shops won't touch them, so it's either spend a lot for OEM, $900-$1305, or replace with steel for $275-$400. The steel shafts usually can be greased and rebuilt. Interesting thing is if you buy a new one from jeep/mopar they have a $100 core charge. So someone is rebuilding these things. One dealer I called told me they can get reconditioned shafts every so often. They use to to have them consistently but not any more. I would guess less and less people are buying OEM so less cores to rebuild. I kept my old OEM with the hope of finding a shop that can rebuild it.
 

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The OEM rear driveshaft is made of aluminum. The u-joints are staked in so are very difficult to rebuild. Most driveshaft shops won't touch them, so it's either spend a lot for OEM, $900-$1305, or replace with steel for $275-$400. The steel shafts usually can be greased and rebuilt. Interesting thing is if you buy a new one from jeep/mopar they have a $100 core charge. So someone is rebuilding these things. One dealer I called told me they can get reconditioned shafts every so often. They use to to have them consistently but not any more. I would guess less and less people are buying OEM so less cores to rebuild. I kept my old OEM with the hope of finding a shop that can rebuild it.
That's pretty interesting, so the OEM driveshafts are made from aluminum and they are basically toast once they wear out;

The steel drive shafts are about 1/3 the cost of the OEM aluminum drive shafts and they are easily serviced and rebuilt meaning they should, in theory, last much longer.

Thanks for the information Al.
 

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Hi my jeep commander has an ugly knocking noise coming from under the center console, it’s mostly when I start accelerating and i have to let off the gas so it’ll stop then accelerate again. I was told it was a chain from inside the transmission or something wrong with the 4x4. Can anyone give me any ideas of what it might be?
 

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Hi my jeep commander has an ugly knocking noise coming from under the center console, it’s mostly when I start accelerating and i have to let off the gas so it’ll stop then accelerate again. I was told it was a chain from inside the transmission or something wrong with the 4x4. Can anyone give me any ideas of what it might be?
I have the same problem, did you know what was the problem?
 

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Here is the drive train noise I had which ended up being the cv joint on the front driveshaft.

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk
so after watching your video with my own car that’s been making those problems I went out and checked on my own because recently everything seem to stop working I went outside to check the CV joint and there was a lot of play and then I decided to grab the drive axle and push it towards the front and I could almost get it completely out so I think I figured out what’s wrong with my car thank you for that now my next question is how much is it going to cost me I have a jeep commander to 2008 5.7 V8 hemi in it

I have the same problem, did you know what was the problem?
I would check your CV joint I just found out today that mine is absolutely destroyed and it’s gonna cost quite a bit so I would give it a check if not read through the forums because a lot of these people have gone through the same issues and it helped me figure out multiple issues on my car
 

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@Brettoreo Please make an introductory post in the New Member Section. Thanks.

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Sorry for the pause... had to take a break after getting it fixed. I posted the link to another user on page 4 for the electronic microphone/stethoscope. As for the CV axle I bought that off of RockAuto.com which is an amazing place to get parts pretty cheap.
We have the exact problem on a commander we are working on. Two things seem to be in common, the lift and also axles. I am considering removing the lift. Did you try that?
 

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@2TechsGarage
Welcome to the forum. Please read this and fill in some of your details and make a signature with your Commander details. (year, model trim, engine, 4wd system, etc.) It is nice for us know what your Commander has in it so we can better help you.

(1) Forum Rules / Vendor Rules | Jeep Commander Forum

To get the list of everything built into your Commander when built at the factory - have your VIN number and go here Chrysler Build sheet - Equipment Listing Not necessarily for your signature but so you know what you have.

Also post an introduction in the "New Member" section.





You can download a free Owner's Manual here--->2008 Owner's Manual Here is a link to the Service Manual--->Service Manual

Be aware thw service manual is 7,859 pages and 158 Meg in size.
 
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