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Discussion Starter #1
So I just got a set of pathfinder ATs that are 245x70x17 and i have some rub on the fenders, interestingly more when turning to the left.

To remedy this I was thinking about getting OME medium springs and I have some questions. Currently the front is about 2" lower than the rear.
I have a v6, would medium springs(2990) be a good fit?
I want it level, would only installing front springs be okay?

Thanks!
Jason
 

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What do you have in the rear that makes a 2" difference front and rear?


I would think it would be smarter to do the same type of lift front and rear, and NOT a mismatch. i.e. longer springs in the front and blocks in the rear. But granted, as long as you're NOT pushing the limits on the suspension and the lift is mild, like 2" or less, I'd think you'd be ok.


Stock, the Commander had a little more wheels pace in the rear than the front, that does give it a bit of a raked forward look. I don't think it was 2", more like an 1". The front spring pads and strut mount, as they wear, might make the front sag a bit, making the forward rake look more pronounced. Fresh spring pads and strut mounts raised it back up for me, but there is still the stock forward rake look.


The Blistein 5100 shocks have adjustable spring perches, and the lowest setting still raises the front up 3/4" to make the stock suspension look level.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It is a stock 2007 base model V6, doesn't even have a hitch :(
I'm told the rear is higher for towing, but the stock front springs look like maybe they have sagged(worn pads like you said) or a bit short/soft stock. I measured with a ruler but I feel I was able to get a fairly accurate measurement.
I was planning on only installing the springs in the front and leaving the rear as is and hope it is close to level.

Thanks for the quick response!
 

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The rear is a solid axle with more wheel travel than the front independent suspension, that is why the wheel tubs in the body are higher, NOT only for more wheel travel of the rear suspension, but also since the axle can tilt and drive higher wheel up even higher.


Look at the rocker panel between the wheels, with a fresh spring pads and strut mounts, parked on level ground, you will see the rocker panel line is parallel with the deck, even if the top of the wheel tubs make it look like it rakes forward.


I would measure first, and make sure you really have a 2" difference, I really think if you get 2" front springs, you'll be riding high in the front, especially if you do swap in new pads and strut mounts when you change the springs (which you should). Its NOT going to look good and might handle rather poorly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Those are concerns I had which prompted my posting here. In interest of solving the rubbing problem I'll be doing the front soon as possible. I already told my buddy I have lined up for this if it doesn't look right we'll be doing the rear next.

Curious if anyone else did only the front OME springs?

Thanks
Jason
 

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Where is it rubbing specifically?

The pinchweld mod is likely all you need.

I ran bilsteins 5100's on the front @ 1.5" lift and simply stacked a few spring isolators in the rear (Cheap @ rockauto!) for about .75" lift for awhile.

I would go with OME MD springs with the v6. OME HD will be noticably stiffer and sit a bit higher.

Just OME springs front and nothing in the rear would look nose high IMHO.

I would not have liked the bilsteins @ 1.5" with nothing in the rear. OME MD will lift the front more than that for certain in your case.


If you do new springs, definitely replace the shocks. They will be worn out by now and you have to completely disassemble the front to get the springs replaced anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not sure what the pinchweld mod is? Haven't looked that up yet.
I considered the bilstein's but it had new shocks a couple years ago, the stock springs look really pathetic so decided on the OME springs, a front set of mediums are on their way here :). Attached a photo of a rub area, which is my main concern to fix right now, and ultimately would like it level or close to level.
If it is crazy nose high afterwards I'll have to order up a set of rear springs or maybe consider just a spacer in the rear? I measured again in front of the garage and it came out with an inch and a half of height difference, when i measured in the garage lastnight i'm fairly certain there was 2" of difference.

Jason
 

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I'm not sure what the pinchweld mod is? Haven't looked that up yet.
I considered the bilstein's but it had new shocks a couple years ago, the stock springs look really pathetic so decided on the OME springs, a front set of mediums are on their way here :). Attached a photo of a rub area, which is my main concern to fix right now, and ultimately would like it level or close to level.
If it is crazy nose high afterwards I'll have to order up a set of rear springs or maybe consider just a spacer in the rear? I measured again in front of the garage and it came out with an inch and a half of height difference, when i measured in the garage lastnight i'm fairly certain there was 2" of difference.

Jason
How are you measuring?

For me from axle to fenderlip I was seeing about 1-1.5" difference front to rear in stock form IIRC.

What is your measurement from center of wheel to fenderlip in the front?

Anywho that is much closer than I would expect from 245/70r17's. IIRC We have members running 245/75r17's with little to no rub.




I'm betting that your rubber spring isolators are worn out and that your springs may be on their way out if you measure less than 18.5" from axle to fenderlip.



Who is installing your new springs?

Also if that is where you rub then pinchweld will not fix your rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was measuring from a ridge on the tire to a crease on the fender. I'll see if I can get a measurement from axle center to fender lip
Those are pathfinder all terrains, they do seem to have thick tread. Can't see in the picture, but I have black rock wheels that probably have an inch or 2 of offset.
A buddy and I are going to install the springs, I got a set of OME mediums, I'm planning on picking up new isolators also.

Thanks
Jason
 

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I'm not sure what the pinchweld mod is? Haven't looked that up yet.
There is a pinchweld in the front wheel wells, its near the rear of the wheel well, that is like a seam of metal that extends out into the wheel well.


If the larger tires rub on that pinch weld, the seam sticking into the wheel well, you can use a dremel and hammer to make a few cuts and pound it down, folding it over, to lay flat on the surface of the wheel well and get another inch or so, so tires don't rub.


BUT, the tires could be rubbing from somewhere else.


As well, you could use wheel spacers, depending on where its rubbing, moving the tires out a 1/2"-1" won't effect much and might give you the room to prevent rubbing.


There was a thread on here, where someone collected info from posts and had a whole lists of tires and sizes and if they rub or not and how to get the clearance, whether that be wheel spacers, lifts or the pinch weld mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Above I posted a pic of the tire in the fender.
The pinch weld is towards the center of the fender liner? That could be part of the issue, the liner bulges out a bit.
The tire rubs some on the fender liner and the edge of the bumper. The rub isn't terrible as long as I'm careful, I enjoy driving it too much to quit! I think in my case just a few inches of lift should do the trick, springs are on their way.

It was raining too much to get a fender/axle measurement this afternoon.
 

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The pic too close, I can't tell if its the front or rear of the wheel well/fender or even if its a front or rear wheel.


Do a forum search. I swore there was a "How To" post about doing the pinch mod. IIRC, the seam is behind the plastic liner, you have to peel it back and fold over that welded seam that extends in the wheel.


There is also a "Tire" thread, listing the different tires and sizes and other combinations with lift, wheel spacers or pinchweld mod for them fitting.


Lifting it should get a little room to prevent rubbing. But depending on the lift kit, the wheels can still travel to the same point the tires rubbed. So a lift only stops the rubbing during normal driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, as someone else mentioned I wasn't expecting so much drama going from a 245x65x17 to a 245x70, maybe the all terrain pathfinder is unusually tall.
 

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With my powers of deduction I'm going to assume that's the passenger side front in the picture. You have an ungodly amount of tire stuffed in that fender well - such to the point that I wonder if your jeep has been lowered in the front.

Mine had some killer rake back when I got it, but I stuffed and ran 265/70s at stock height for a full winter and half of a spring season. From what I can see in that picture, I had more room to turn that you do, though I was running 1.5" spacers on stock wheels. But a 265/70 also specs out to being a 31.6" tall tire, I'll attach a pic at the end.

Get out there with a tape measure and take some real measurements like ground to top of tire, to judge the true tire height. Then do center of the hub to the fender lip - and take a few more pictures. It is very weird to me that you're having this much issue going 1 size up when I was running 265/70s on clapped out 120k stock junk.

edit: Being it's not in the picture, humor me and take a photo of the tire size too. I could see a 245/75 being that tall. ;)

 

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With my powers of deduction I'm going to assume that's the passenger side front in the picture. You have an ungodly amount of tire stuffed in that fender well - such to the point that I wonder if your jeep has been lowered in the front.

Mine had some killer rake back when I got it, but I stuffed and ran 265/70s at stock height for a full winter and half of a spring season. From what I can see in that picture, I had more room to turn that you do, though I was running 1.5" spacers on stock wheels. But a 265/70 also specs out to being a 31.6" tall tire, I'll attach a pic at the end.

Get out there with a tape measure and take some real measurements like ground to top of tire, to judge the true tire height. Then do center of the hub to the fender lip - and take a few more pictures. It is very weird to me that you're having this much issue going 1 size up when I was running 265/70s on clapped out 120k stock junk.

edit: Being it's not in the picture, humor me and take a photo of the tire size too. I could see a 245/75 being that tall. ;)
Agreed. I am very surprised to see how close those 245/70r17s look
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Kurt, you're right about the 1st photo. I was able to slim up some photos enough to attach before and after shots. The aftermarket wheels have roughly 1.5" maybe 2" of offset.

I'll get some measurements and another photo.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Tire measures 29 and 5/8" and from center of the axle to the fender lip 18" so I seem to have some sag based on what others have stated. The hub actually has a centered slot I could hook the tape-measure to so it is a good measurement. Also, attached a photo to humor Kurt :)
 

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Kurt, you're right about the 1st photo. I was able to slim up some photos enough to attach before and after shots. The aftermarket wheels have roughly 1.5" maybe 2" of offset.

I'll get some measurements and another photo.
Ah the significant increase in offset can do that. The tire now turns in a wider arc than it did with the stock wheels.
 

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I forget, is positive moving the wheel centerline closer to the center of the vehicle? Or is that negative offset?


Obviously, if your new wheels different offset has moved the wheel centerline in by 1.65", you can get a wheel spacer to move them out to close to the original position, 1.5" or 2.0", maybe there's a 1.75"?
If your new wheels different offset has moved the wheel centerline out by 1.65"? Nothing comes to mind to remedy that easily, other than getting new wheels, or lifting it.


Someone already mentioned it, but sometimes if you move the wheel out to far, that creates rub, because of the bigger arc the outer edge swings.
 
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