Jeep Commander Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guys and Gals,

I had a few questions and maybe you can help me out, I need to replace my UCA and I already bought some no they are not the JBA way out of my price range, the qeustion is how do I install the new ones? Yesturday I tried it but as soon as I took off the tire I was lost, I am assuming I need to remove the tire fender wall but how? Also do I use the jack on the bottom of the front lower control arm or on the frame? Also for those that installed the JBA UCA's did they come with an installation sheet maybe one of you can forward me that thing or help me out with some diagrams to show me what I need to do I would rather try and do it myself to spare the cost of a mechanic. Any help will be apreciated. :shrug03: Thank you! One more thing I wanted to replace my swaybar end links is this straight forward srew the old ones out and install the new ones or is there more to it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
As far as the plastic fender wall, it is just held on by plastic rivets on the fender flare(They'll most likely break upon removal). Its also held by two rivets or bolts at the top of the wheel well. I think there are two more directly behind the spindle on each side. When I put mine back in, I usually only attach it with the two bolts behind the spindle, as the fender flare holds it up the rest of the way with no rivets.

I have never personally replaced my UCA's but here is an old install thread, the pictures can't be seen, but the descriptions should help:
http://www.jeepcommander.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7291

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f67/jeepinbyal-upper-control-arm-install-1190973/


From what I have seen on other threads, the reason for removing the strut is because the spring blocks the bolt that holds the UCA. Check out this thread:
http://www.theultimatejeep.com/showthread.php?1538-JBA-Upper-Control-Arms/page2

Now onto the swaybar end links. I just took a look at 'em and they look be a direct bolt-on swap. I have only ever taken off the back ones though.

Good Luck,
Ross
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Ross yeah I saw the old thread but with no pics I was lost and I will look at the other website if it is necessary to remove the strut assebly then I guess I am just going to have to take it to a mechanic this is something I would really not like to mess with. Thank you again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Update. Well I did my swaybar endlinks the driver side was easy just unbolt and bolt the new ones, the passenger side well that was a pain, the upper bolt was rusted to the inside of the bushing I couldn't even get it to move with the impact gun and after alot of wd40 since I didn't have pb blaster and help from my father inlaw I was able to unsrew the bolt and removed the hole link with the bolt still on it after hammering it out it came loose and I cleaned it all and greased it and reinstalled the new endlinks and let me tell you my front rattled alot over small bumps and on uneven roads, now it is much better trust me it made a big difference now I just need to go to the mechanic so they can replace my UCA.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
691 Posts
I've done mine twice. If you just remove the clevis bolt and the top strut bolts it will drop down enough to unbolt the uca. The last time I did it I didn't even remove the fender well. You csn push it back just far enough to get a box end wrench in there to hold the nut. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks D-nicecommander but I just took it to the mechanic and have it scheduled to get changed tomorrow only 90dlls, I'm only going to change the passenger side UCA since it is the one with the broken boot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Update well I had the upper control arm replaced and now after 2 days it is starting to squeak, so I am going to try and grease the ball joint with a grease gun and needle my assumption is that the new sealed ones did not come with enought grease so my advise don't buy from world suspension its a good deal but not good quality. I will let you know if the grease did the trick or not as soon as I buy the needed hardware.(grease gun, needle and grease also some rtv sealent to cover the puncture.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,128 Posts
I'd put my money on the UCA mounts being torqued down with the suspension hanging at full droop. They should be torqued with the control arm at normal ride height position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I'd put my money on the UCA mounts being torqued down with the suspension hanging at full droop. They should be torqued with the control arm at normal ride height position.

So do you think it is over torqued or under torqued?:icon_confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,128 Posts
Neither. Torqued while in the wrong position. Makes the bushings twist further and makes noise. Common mistake people make when installing their own parts (or shop guys who get lazy)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well tanx for the info Matt I guess I will try the grease first if no luck then I can un torque and retorque the balljoint nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,128 Posts
Well tanx for the info Matt I guess I will try the grease first if no luck then I can un torque and retorque the balljoint nut.
Not the balljoint nut, the control arm bolts (that mount the control arm to the body). Loosen them up, spray some silicon grease on them, bounce the front end up/down, tighten them up and you'll probably be good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well I added some grease to the nuts connecting the uca to the jeep frame and added grease to the ball joint using a needle and after a wile of driving the noise is gone. Thank you all for your imputs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Good to hear you got it sorted out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,037 Posts
Not to mention, twisiting the bushing farther will cause it to wear faster, softer, tear sooner.

Set the vehicle on its own weight, have the arm in the position it will be for normal ride height, then torque it down. That way the bushing spends most of its time at its non twisted state and twists the same amount either direction as the arm moves either direction.

Torque it down while the arm is NOT in the normal ride height position, i.e. when the vehicle is up on jacks, and then when you put it on the ground the bushing spends most of its time in the twisted position, when the arm moves in one direction it just untwists the bushing, when the arm moves in the other direction it just twists the bushing further and twists it twice as far as it was designed to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
405 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Update: I ended up relacing the UCA again since it was squeaking really bad, this time i did it myself and since I didn't want to remove the fender flare I just went trought the top (passenger side) which was not that complicated the hard part was taking the bolts out they hit the coil and I needed some metal bars to try and move those out of the way to take the bolts out all the way. When I was removing the bolts I noticed that the one closes to the firewall was not even tight all the way I guess this is why it kept squeaking the mechanic that had originally replaced them did not do a good job. With the new ones on I get no squeak at all but I did add lub to them and also I put the bold inside out so i wouldn't have such a hard time the next time it decides to go bad on me.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top