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Discussion Starter #1
I just noticed today that my passenger side front tire is wearing uneven. It looks different then the normal cupping you would get from a bad alignment or the wear you would get from inproper tire pressure. It is more prominent on the middle lugs and is wearing at an angle from front to rear on each individual lug. I tried searching online and the only thing I could thing of is the tire might be out of balance. Anyone else have this problem? Its only noticeable on the one tire.


 

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I have not seen a tire wear like that before, however I have not ever know anyone who has had a tread pattern like the one on the tires you have. I think it may have something to do with the style of the tread but I cannot say what the exact cause is.
 

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Not sure the cause, but I would try to rotate more often and check the balance. Also, you might get a friend to drive next to you to observe the tire at various speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I assume you have been rotating your tires? Bad strut causing excessive bounce?
I try to rotate my tires every 2000-3000 miles and just recently rotated them about a week ago. My struts are shot, however I believe that both front tires would be wearing like this and not just the passenger side. Also that tire had just been rotated from the passenger side rear.

I have not seen a tire wear like that before, however I have not ever know anyone who has had a tread pattern like the one on the tires you have. I think it may have something to do with the style of the tread but I cannot say what the exact cause is.
Dont you think all the tires would wear like that if it had something to do with that type of tread pattern?

I also noticed that it looks like the wheel weight had been pushed about a half inch back as you can see the mark from where it had been before. Its the same wheel that I beat up pretty bad at Rausch Creek on the rocks where I damaged the end off of the valve stem.
 

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The combination of the tread pattern and another issue like balance or alignment may make the issue worse than just one or the other. I am just guessing since I have no actual evidence or experience to back up the tread issue. It couldn't hurt you to have it thrown up on an alignment machine every now and then considering the amount of wheeling that you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Maybe tomorrow ill take the XK to get the tires balanced and see if that helps out any. I want to wait to get the alignment done as I plan to buy new Bilstien stuts/shocks in a few weeks.
 

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I would say your struts would cause that if bad, that would wear the middle of the tire like that. And the truck bounce around alot.

I would upgrade to some Bilstein HD's struts and shock. Expensive, but have a lifetime watt. Then alignment and balance etc.

Keep it off road and your tires won't wear so bad!:rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would say your struts would cause that if bad, that would wear the middle of the tire like that. And the truck bounce around alot.

I would upgrade to some Bilstein HD's struts and shock. Expensive, but have a lifetime watt. Then alignment and balance etc.

Keep it off road and your tires won't wear so bad!:rofl:
Well thats the plan eventually. Its going to cost a little over $400 for Bilstiens on all four corners. Ill be going with the the HD Struts up front 5150's in the rear with 10 inches of travel.

I try to keep it off road as much as possible but unfortunately its impossible to get from one place to another without driving on black top....
 

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Using your info it sounds like you are rotating ft to rr and not crossing.
This results in what is called cupping which is what a tread develops if its load forces, specifically on acceleration are always in one direction.
The larger and fewer the tread blocks, the more tendency for this to occur.
Tread squirm causes the trailing edge of the tread block to deform and cause the trailing edge of the block to wear faster than the leading edge, like the tread in the photo.
To show what happens (non-scientific, but interesting) take a new wooden pencil with a new eraser.
Drag the new eraser, while holding pencil straight up, across a sheet of paper in one direction. Put some downforce on it to slightly deform the eraser while dragging it across.
While doing this, note the leading edge is being pulled away and the trailing edge is following. Do this about ten strokes and look at the eraser rubber.
You will see that the leading edge is now sifnificantly shorter than the trailing edge.
You have now demonstrated cupping that occurs if wear is presented in one direction.
If you now turn the long side into your leading side and repeat the test, the eraser wear will even out.
Same applies to a tread block.
The forces on the tread block are the same during brake application as well, sometimes even worse depending on how hard a stop you are making.
This is why the manual wants the rears crossed while moving to the front axle and the fronts moved straight back, maintaining the direction, but because the fronts turn and wear the edges off, by installing them to the rear the tire has a chance to even the center wear with the shoulder wear.

So.....Am I correct about not crossing?

Misalignment will show as extreme shoulder wear and tread feathering towards inside or outside of the tread blocks.
Imbalance will show as a rather large area of tread wear about 8/10" circle in the center of the tread. This is from the heavy spot slamming into the road at high speed and of course, you would feel it through the chassis.

Good luck,
Rob
 

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Well thats the plan eventually. Its going to cost a little over $400 for Bilstiens on all four corners. Ill be going with the the HD Struts up front 5150's in the rear with 10 inches of travel.

I try to keep it off road as much as possible but unfortunately its impossible to get from one place to another without driving on black top....
I woulds just do the fronts as quick as you can. The rear's should wear like that being a live axle.

I run Bilsteins on everything I have.
 

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I am with Rob on his explanation. It makes the most sense and even if it is only one tire it is probably from the open diffs favoring one side instead of the other. Especially if you are pulling out of a driveway or entrance and accelerating hard often.
 

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I am with Rob on his explanation. It makes the most sense and even if it is only one tire it is probably from the open diffs favoring one side instead of the other. Especially if you are pulling out of a driveway or entrance and accelerating hard often.
The AWD my be a factor as well good point.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Using your info it sounds like you are rotating ft to rr and not crossing.
This results in what is called cupping which is what a tread develops if its load forces, specifically on acceleration are always in one direction.
The larger and fewer the tread blocks, the more tendency for this to occur.
Tread squirm causes the trailing edge of the tread block to deform and cause the trailing edge of the block to wear faster than the leading edge, like the tread in the photo.
To show what happens (non-scientific, but interesting) take a new wooden pencil with a new eraser.
Drag the new eraser, while holding pencil straight up, across a sheet of paper in one direction. Put some downforce on it to slightly deform the eraser while dragging it across.
While doing this, note the leading edge is being pulled away and the trailing edge is following. Do this about ten strokes and look at the eraser rubber.
You will see that the leading edge is now sifnificantly shorter than the trailing edge.
You have now demonstrated cupping that occurs if wear is presented in one direction.
If you now turn the long side into your leading side and repeat the test, the eraser wear will even out.
Same applies to a tread block.
The forces on the tread block are the same during brake application as well, sometimes even worse depending on how hard a stop you are making.
This is why the manual wants the rears crossed while moving to the front axle and the fronts moved straight back, maintaining the direction, but because the fronts turn and wear the edges off, by installing them to the rear the tire has a chance to even the center wear with the shoulder wear.

So.....Am I correct about not crossing?

Misalignment will show as extreme shoulder wear and tread feathering towards inside or outside of the tread blocks.
Imbalance will show as a rather large area of tread wear about 8/10" circle in the center of the tread. This is from the heavy spot slamming into the road at high speed and of course, you would feel it through the chassis.

Good luck,
Rob
I thought about it for a little while tonight and robby is definately right on! At first I had posted that I did infact rotate my rear tires to the front and the fronts cross to the rear. However, I had forgot that the first time I rotated the new MT/R's, I just rotated the rear to the front and the front to the rear WITHOUT crossing them. Since then I rotated them last week and did infact rotate them the way the OM states. Rear to front and front crossed to the rear. So basically since I have had them they have been rotated twice. Here comes the confusing part. When I first had them installed obviously the front tires were both on the front. When I rotated them for the first time I didnt do it properly and the front tires got rotated to the rear instead of being crossed, keeping them on the same side of the vehicle. This past time when I rotated the tires I did it how the OM stated and the rears went back to the front and the fronts crossed to the rear. So basically the tires that are on the front now have been on the same side of the XK this whole time, yet the tires on the rear have been crossed once. This explains it all. So basically I need to rotate them again to get the front tires on the opposite side of the vehicle, which will happen when they are crossed to the rear. Thanks robby!!!!!!!!
 

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Wow! I'm tired just thinking about it. But seriously, I'm glad you figured it out with Robby's help.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow! I'm tired just thinking about it. But seriously, I'm glad you figured it out with Robby's help.
The whole thing is sort of confusing but what robby posted makes perfect sense to me!!! So once I get them rotated one more time to get the front tires crossed over the the opposite side of the vehicle, the lugs should wear back to normal.
 

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The whole thing is sort of confusing but what robby posted makes perfect sense to me!!! So once I get them rotated one more time to get the front tires crossed over the the opposite side of the vehicle, the lugs should wear back to normal.
It'll take some miles but yes, the tread will even out.

Glad to help,

Rob
 

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My BFG AT's on my Expedition wore the same way until I started crossing the rears when rotating. It won't take very long for them to even out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My BFG AT's on my Expedition wore the same way until I started crossing the rears when rotating. It won't take very long for them to even out.
I rotated the tires this morning. Dammm was it humid out. Now I just need to put some miles on them so they start wearing back to normal. Ill give you guys an update in a few weeks.
 

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Sorry I didn't get in on this thread sooner. I noticed my front right tire was also wearing faster. I rotated last time with the crossed rotatation, but the front right went to the rear right - next it will come to the front left... I hope that helps wear it back right.
 
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