Jeep Commander Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This topic came up in a different thread but it didn't relate the the OP's question, so I'm starting a new thread. First of all, all props go to member SAL for the idea.

I'm using the shallow strut, 12 guage. I cut mine to 60" for 2 reasons.

1: they come in 10' lengths so 60" is right in half
2: I wanted them to be longer than the width of a sheet of plywood

So far I have cut mine to length and painted them. I first used primer, then sprayed with rustolium, black, hammered finish. They look great!

Now I'm trying to figure out what to use to space the bars up off the rails a little to clear the roof. I did however discover that unistrut channel nuts fit inside the roof rail near perfectly

I will add some pics when I get home tonight
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
What did you use for a spacer? I thought about a stack of washers, but I would like to be able to paint it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Hi,

To go along with your strut's origin, you may use some 1/2" PVC conducts as spacers. They wont rust and will handle alot of weight without compressing...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
PVC is not a bad idea. I would use some 3/4 or 1" to gain a larger base. 1/2" is smaller than the width of the strut and may not be as stable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Trax95008,

What kind of unistruts are these ? You know that there are tougher ones with thicker walls, higher sides and that are much much stronger... I haven't seen plans of your project but what you will save in weight, you will loose big time in flexing, distorsion and auto-destruction via vibrations... My unasked 2¢...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Trax95008,

What kind of unistruts are these ? You know that there are tougher ones with thicker walls, higher sides and that are much much stronger... I haven't seen plans of your project but what you will save in weight, you will loose big time in flexing, distorsion and auto-destruction via vibrations... My unasked 2¢...
I am using 12 gauge which is the thickest one. I know they make a taller strut, but it is not necessary. The shallower one is PLENTY strong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Trax,

Given that the struts are galvanized, what type of paint did you use? Looks really good in the photos.

Also, what type of nuts are on the bolts? I've not seen those before, and beats what I was thinking of doing in the way of mounting hardware.

Thanks!

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Trax,

Given that the struts are galvanized, what type of paint did you use? Looks really good in the photos.

Also, what type of nuts are on the bolts? I've not seen those before, and beats what I was thinking of doing in the way of mounting hardware.

Thanks!

Jim
I first hit it with a coat of primer. Then I used rustoleum hammered finish rattle can.

The nuts are called "channel nuts" they are specifically for unistrut and happen to fit into the channel of the stock roof rails
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
heres an idea for a mount. its a short piece of unistrut. the problem is that on the factory rail, the two edges are not level. the inside is higher than the outside. so a custom mount might be necessary.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
so here's what i ended up doing. i took a couple angle brackets, bent one a little to match the angle of the roof rail, and bolted it all together. its extremely strong. now i need to take it off and paint the brackets to match
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Trax,

I like that; I picked up the parts and did a test fit with the 1" PVC spacers but don't feel confident in the long term reliability. (I'm not sure how PVC would hold up in long term direct sunlight, below 0 and above 100 temps (f)).

I think your new idea of using the steel mounts is much better.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Trax,

I like that; I picked up the parts and did a test fit with the 1" PVC spacers but don't feel confident in the long term reliability. (I'm not sure how PVC would hold up in long term direct sunlight, below 0 and above 100 temps (f)).

I think your new idea of using the steel mounts is much better.

Jim
would you post some pics of your setup? also, if you use electrical PVC which is gray in color, it is UV resistant unlike white PVC which is for plumbing. or, all you have to do is paint it to protect it from UV
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top