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would you post some pics of your setup? also, if you use electrical PVC which is gray in color, it is UV resistant unlike white PVC which is for plumbing. or, all you have to do is paint it to protect it from UV
Will do. Haven't completed the painting yet, deliberating using your method rather than the PVC. Using the right angle iron pieces puts all of the stress on four bolts (the ones attaching the two pieces of iron together on the side of each rail), but on a 400 pound roof load that would only be 125 pounds per bolt. I think Grade 8 would handle that type of shearing stress. Maybe put JB Weld in addition to the bolts?

Using the PVC spacers puts the stress on the spacers (since they would rest on washers directly on the factory roof rail mounts) in a straight downward direction, which may (maybe not) be more structurally sound. Of course in my case it matters little, since anything I put on the roof would be a light load.

(As you can probably tell I tend to over build - a habit brought over from driving Wranglers).

Probably won't get it together for a couple of days; although I'm semi-retired I've been recruited to write a database for a non-profit org in my area and that's taking up what would normally be free time for me.

I did a test fitting (of the unpainted pieces) and things seemed to go O.K., except for adding the spacers.

I'll post pics as soon as I get the remaining bits 'n pieces assembled.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The bolts I'm using are 3/8-16 grade 8. They are plenty strong. Also, there isn't much load on the bolt anyways because the strut is resting on top of the other angle bracket as it rises up. I did that to prevent the strut from twisting at that bolt. Post pics of your moch-ups. We like to see progress pics
 

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The bolts I'm using are 3/8-16 grade 8. They are plenty strong. Also, there isn't much load on the bolt anyways because the strut is resting on top of the other angle bracket as it rises up. I did that to prevent the strut from twisting at that bolt. Post pics of your moch-ups. We like to see progress pics
Will do. I picked up 1/2" bolts - they fit O.K. and that's what H.D. had in stock. They are, however, grade 5 - the 'final' fit will require grade 8.

I was thinking more of the strength being multiplied, as in a frontal collision - how the various bits and pieces would come under stress. If the Commander comes to a sudden stop all of the bits and pieces bolted onto it will, of course, attempt to keep moving forward at speed.

There's a pretty good web page on shearing strength of various bolts:

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners/index.asp

I need to finalize the size cut on the bars and will do a pre-paint photo shoot and post pics ASAP. I think, however, you are on the right track with the angle iron and my PVC spacers may be discarded in favor of the angle iron.

Fun stuff.

Regards,

Jim
 

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Spacers For Unistrut Cross Bars

I picked up a 10' length of unistrut and cut it in half to make my cross bars. I went to Dicks Sporting Goods and bought 4 hockey pucks at $1.99 ea for spacers. I had to carve a small channel to get them level but they work great and do not look bad either.

10' unistrut cut in half
1 pack of unistrut nuts (5 per pack)
4 4"x3/8 fully threaded hex bolts
4 flat washers
4 lock washers
1 tube of blue lock tite
4 hockey pucks
1 can of rustoleum car primer spray paint
1 can of rustoleum flat black enamel spray paint
1 bicycle tube cut in small lengths to cover the ends of the unistrut

I will post pics soon.
 

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I picked up a 10' length of unistrut and cut it in half to make my cross bars. I went to Dicks Sporting Goods and bought 4 hockey pucks at $1.99 ea for spacers. I had to carve a small channel to get them level but they work great and do not look bad either.

10' unistrut cut in half
1 pack of unistrut nuts (5 per pack)
4 4"x3/8 fully threaded hex bolts
4 flat washers
4 lock washers
1 tube of blue lock tite
4 hockey pucks
1 can of rustoleum car primer spray paint
1 can of rustoleum flat black enamel spray paint
1 bicycle tube cut in small lengths to cover the ends of the unistrut

I will post pics soon.
Ever get those pics?
 

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I bought some Unistrut to fabricate this and from what I can tell as luck would have it, the holes in the Unistrut will not line up with the spacing on the side rails. If I line one slot up, the other side ends up directly between holes. How did you overcome that spacing or am I just not measuring correctly? I did find some end caps at Lowes for the rail to give it a finished look. I plan on painting mine with Flex Seal rubber coating so the rails and end caps will all match and not mar the basket I want to mount on top.
 
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