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Discussion Starter #21
Correct me if I'm wrong but on the 3.7 liter the transmission control module would be under the dash? Also, with what I mentioned previously, would that be a cause of the TCM failing? OBD says that could be one of the possible causes just wasn't sure.
 

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Forgot you had the 3.7 - here it is for that
40704
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thank you for that! Finally, I found it!! :)

Update

I took the Jeep to a mechanic shop and they retried everything I had already done. The mechanic let me know that underneath the dash where the fuses are, there are other fuses behind there. In order to see these, you literally have to get under there with a flashlight. We didn't know what these fuses were for because schematics only told us of the fuse areas we already know of. (One underneath steering wheel area and the two in the engine bay.) He changed those out and started the vehicle up about 20 times with the problem not happening. Everyone cheered and I thought to myself, finally. I paid for the repair and drove home. When I got home, I turned off the Jeep normally and just for the heck of it, turned the ignition to turn on. Guess what? Red security light blinking, buzzing noise from underneath, and the usual click from the fuse area underneath the steering column. The vehicle wouldn't start. I immediately called the shop back and the mechanic said he would reimburse me. At this point, I decided to run the blue driver again and yet again got the same codes as I normally did with the problem happening. Under the two possible causes, it mentions one of them as the TCM has failed. The other top 2 reported fixes are replacing the PCM or replace TIPM. I decided to test the TCM. After locating it underneath the steering area I pulled it down and while the problem doesn't exist (vehicle starting fine) there was power going to it. When I mimicked the problem with the vehicle not starting and tested to same wires that had power, guess what? There was no power. This is interesting. I called the mechanic and explained my find. He said it could be that being that the TCM needs to start in order for the vehicle to run. Is this true? From researching, nothing like that was explained. People that experienced TCM failure were with driving issues, not the vehicle starting. I think this may be or again the security light blinking in preventing it from starting so I could be wrong altogether. Anyone's thoughts on this?
 

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You never did reply as to whether or not it makes the "click" when it doesn't start. Especially after your 20 good starts - what was the failure like? Also, i'd previously mentioned (and posted a pic of) the ignition switch replacement that finally cured my ills - but you said you'd just had that recall done. That recall was to replace the actual ignition switch cylinder to prevent accidental disengagement from the "run" position by smacking the key with your knee. The ignition switch is a module held on to the cylinder with one screw and a plastic clip. I seriously doubt the stealership would replace the switch as well - they'd reuse it. Your stories mimic mine exactly. Multiple good starts, then headed to the driveway @ 3 in the morning just to try it - and then the immediate destruction of happiness...I still feel like you need to look @ the WCM and ignition switch - switch first. Ironically enough, they're both sensative components...and both integrated into/on top of the actual ignition cylinder - they're all screwed together in one big, hard-to-remove "module."
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Sorry about that. When the intermit problem happens, I do get a click. But it's not a click from a battery, lose terminal or starter. It's a click from the fuse relays turning on. All the other things have been checked over and over again. I will, however, go underneath the vehicle and check the main ground that connects under or on top of the tranny area. As far as the recall goes, I was told everything was replaced since I have the WIN module. (Skreem = WIN = WCM = Immobilizer module & Keyless Entry receiver) Correct me if I am wrong. If I am right, I think they would have replaced the whole unit since it's whole. The picture you showed pertaining to the switch, the win module is just a whole black box.

I ordered a remote start just to see if I could bypass the problem for now but I still would ultimately like to fix the issue. I'm just not ready to go to the stealership yet.
 

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lol. an excited "bumper." it's not a "whole" unit. it's literally 3 connected units but i don't know if they replace all 3 in the recall since i haven't had it done. yes, they're all mounted together, but i doubt DCM would eat the ~$150 for the WCM and the switch for the ~792,300 recalls (let's just call it $120M) when all they "needed" to replace was the cylinder. You probably got 2 new keyfobs but it's because it's a new cylinder which requires cutting 2 new blank keys (integrated rsid chips) - and I'd guess they just re-programmed to your existing WCM.
I"m just sayin' man - if you were a conglomerate (DCM) - would you replace 3 components when a legitimate/legal solution is to replace only one?
 

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I'd really appreciate jeep5253, Big Blue, or HueyPilot's thoughts - been owners for a bit longer than me.
I've been following this thread, but have nothing to add to it. I have no idea what is causing the problem. Yes, I bought my 2006 Commander new in 2007 and still have it. I've never had the ignition recall done and have never had a problem with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Hey Hey everyone,

So I finally bit the bullet and decided to take the Jeep to a mechanic I had used in the past. Turns out after running his diagnostic and being able to mimic the problem it's a bad ECM. This is something I had dreaded. The cool thing is that he let me know of two websites where I could get them cheap but explained to me that if they fail there would be no warranty. He is offering a lifetime warranty at 780.00. This would include the reprogramming of the keys. I still need to get with him and ask if the problem continues after this is done if he will then use the money I already paid to fix the actual problem. Does this sound like a fair deal to anyone? I also found some online alternatives that offer lifetime replacement way cheaper but don't say anything about reprogramming keys. I thought this had to be done. Oh, the diagnostic fee was 100.00 and he forwards it to the actual fix which comes out to 780.00.
 

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If it is an 06 the keys are not programmable. I had to buy 2 new keys when they changed mine. You could reprogram the keys in later years.
 
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