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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up an '06 Commander Limited with the Hemi - just over 105,000 miles and not a blemish on the paint.

We also have a heavily modded '03 Liberty Renegade and a '16 Renegade in the family and I'm really looking forward to learning more about the Commander. I've had my eye on them for quite a while and finally found one equipped the way I wanted it.

The dealer put on four new tires, upper ball joints, new brakes all around - ready for winter. I'll be changing the front and rear diff fluids, transfer case and flushing the tranny and changing filters, coolant system flush and other maintenance items that are due based on mileage if they haven't been done yet.

Any suggestions on things to look at or look out for?

Looking forward to learning and participating with you all.


Bob
 

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Is it the 4X4? I would hit the front shaft for play in the CV flange. Mostly since you hit all the stuff you need to do with fluids and stuff.

Other than that the only gremlin I find is the vacuum tube kit for the top of the motor. there is a section that the battery wire sometimes touches and it will wear it down enough for a pinhole leak sometimes.

I changed the front and rear hubs at 117K for general purpose, I was doing a complete do over on the lift and felt I was there anyways.

If you want to be picky, I pulled my injectors and had them cleaned and impedance matched back to factory specs. Those will get messy after a while and also the impedance value actually changes with age/wear. That only cost me $75 and it did make a difference with MPG. Not a glorious difference, but a difference.

After 100K shocks and struts could use a refresh.

Other than that I found a good rust check with PB Blaster and re-torqueing everything was a good check.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dave - yes it's a 4X4 with the QDII.

I'll check that CV flange - I'm used to changing/checking front shaft CV's on my Liberty so I'll add that to my checklist. And with the injectors... I swapped mine out on my Liberty (with the 3.7) and am not familiar with having the impedance checked. Is that a job for a speciality shop or can a well-equipped mechanic do that for me?

On the 3.7 the valve seats had a tendency to drop on the #1 cylinder if the engine overheated but the problem was supposedly fixed on engines made after 2005. Does the Hemi have a similar issue? Will my '06 be the 'improved' version from Chrysler or should I keep my ears tuned for any issues?

Appreciate your welcome - I don't think I'll be able to keep the stock suspension very long. The "lift itch" has already started so I'll be looking at an OME spring lift I'm sure. Which of course means tires and maybe new wheels and, and, and... >:)

Bob
 

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Good deal on the 4X4, you pretty much have the same as I do then.

You can see what I have done and get a feel for the options then.

The impedance is usually a specialty shop, but there are well equipped speed shops that have the injector box for tuning them.

I sent mine off to AUS Injection in Phoenix Arizona, those guys basically tear it down and do anything you want with them... Anything. Repaint? different nozzle pattern, more fuel, you name it... it only costs money, which is usually cheaper than brand new ultra super duper stuff.
The basic rebuild and redo is around $75 if you send them a set, otherwise they are around $125 for a set from them originally. Took about 48Hrs when I was there.

I have heard of the 06 and 07 years having an issue with heads, but I have never run into it in real life... yet. I do plan on switching out the heads with the stage II mopar kit. Although I may still end up just rebuilding the heads to save money and compatibility issues.
I have been fairly automatic with motors over 100K miles, I almost always pull the heads and get the valves redone. Which of course leads to a quick paint on the heads and better breathing by the way of port and polish. To get that done is usually fairly cheap if you pull your own heads, I recommend same year motor from the junk yard then you are not in a corner with your rig.

I used adjustable lower control arms from a JK on the rear arms. I was happily surprised they fit perfectly! Super easy to find on eBay for less than $100. All you have to do is drill out the frame mount for a larger diameter bolt shank and add a couple of shims left and right of the Johnny Joints.

I recommend getting crappy wheels that structurally look how you want then send off to a shop to get resurfaced. Unbelievably cheaper!!!!! I have flashy chrome rims right now, but I am going to have the chrome stripped off and powder coat the wheels along the paint scheme of the rig instead. I will also have anodized sections for flash. This method is so much more different than trying to find something in the store that will cost you perhaps a couple of grand.
When I get home this spring I will do a write up and how to guide for retouching wheels... Hydropainting is awesome!!!

Dave
 
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