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Finally got around to getting this installed. Was an easy job and only took 15 - 20 minutes. With removing the headrest the seat was able to be pushed forward enough to take the plastic side pieces off and I had no issues removing the seat belt pretensioner. It took a bit longer than removing it in the Pull a Part lot as I was a little more careful with the plastic pieces.

I've cleaned my Commander many times, even had it detailed a few times, but I couldn't believe what was under that seat!!! I was happy to get all that "stuff" cleaned up. When I have a few free minutes I'm going to unbolt the drivers side and push it forward just to vacuum under it!! I feel like it's a bit "fresher" in there now!!

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Today I had some time to unbolt the drivers seat and clean under it. It wasn't as bad as the passenger side, but there was still a decent amount of "stuff" under there.

Glad to have both sides cleaned up now!!

20200811_183908.jpg 20200811_190908.jpg
 

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Today I had some time to unbolt the drivers seat and clean under it. It wasn't as bad as the passenger side, but there was still a decent amount of "stuff" under there.

Glad to have both sides cleaned up now!!

View attachment 41494 View attachment 41495
Sometimes it's just the piece of mind you get, from doing things like this, that make it worthwhile.
 
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Sorry for being to quiet as of late. Life love to kick a man when he's down. So today with some free time I attempted to fix an alignment issue with my lift gate. It's so off that water enter the rear through the seal that doesn't make full contact. Here are a couple pics of that also showing the other side which is not flush, but rather sunken in far more that it should be
IMG_1187.jpeg . . IMG_1188.jpeg
So pulling out the seal and the trim I loosened the right side hinge and tried to force it back to get it aligned, but seemed to only fix this problem slightly. Upon examining the hinge itself it appears to be bowed upward. The other hinge seems fine and flush. So I'll order a new hinge and hope this'll fix this problem. For those asking you can do this by yourself, but would be helpful to have another to hold up the lift gate while pulling out the lifters.
 

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Sorry for being to quiet as of late. Life love to kick a man when he's down. So today with some free time I attempted to fix an alignment issue with my lift gate. It's so off that water enter the rear through the seal that doesn't make full contact. Here are a couple pics of that also showing the other side which is not flush, but rather sunken in far more that it should be
View attachment 41497 . . View attachment 41498
So pulling out the seal and the trim I loosened the right side hinge and tried to force it back to get it aligned, but seemed to only fix this problem slightly. Upon examining the hinge itself it appears to be bowed upward. The other hinge seems fine and flush. So I'll order a new hinge and hope this'll fix this problem. For those asking you can do this by yourself, but would be helpful to have another to hold up the lift gate while pulling out the lifters.
Good information @RoninSpectre; Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing the difference that new hinge makes.
 

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@wessonnadroj;

Complete your user profile as directed below to comply with the forum rules; This is a requirement - not a request.

Okay got this.
 

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Swapped in 4 used-but-nice BFG Advantage T/A Sport LT 245/70-17 (ebay ~$300) replacing the OEM Goodyear Fortera 245/65-17. Definite improvement in noise/smoothness and fills the wheel well a little better without interference.

Changed the Sway Bar Bushings (Moog K200160) and 2 End Links (Moog K80861) for Moog Problem Solver grade parts (Amazon ~$60). This completely fixed the massive "clunk and jitter" on bumps that the local shop swore was struts/strut mounts. Easy 30 minute job with the whole front end in the air for better access. None of these parts LOOKED especially worn but obviously they were. Prior to repair, I was able to slide my sway bar slightly left to right, leading me to believe my bushings were worn. Anyway, money very well spent this week.
 

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Swapped in 4 used-but-nice BFG Advantage T/A Sport LT 245/70-17 (ebay ~$300) replacing the OEM Goodyear Fortera 245/65-17. Definite improvement in noise/smoothness and fills the wheel well a little better without interference.

Changed the Sway Bar Bushings (Moog K200160) and 2 End Links (Moog K80861) for Moog Problem Solver grade parts (Amazon ~$60). This completely fixed the massive "clunk and jitter" on bumps that the local shop swore was struts/strut mounts. Easy 30 minute job with the whole front end in the air for better access. None of these parts LOOKED especially worn but obviously they were. Prior to repair, I was able to slide my sway bar slightly left to right, leading me to believe my bushings were worn. Anyway, money very well spent this week.
Do you have any pics?
 

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so 2 weekends ago finally swapped out my rear diff for a rebuilt one. Definitely had bad bearings, notchy pinion, and silvery metal in the oil.

put the jeep on a 4post lift with the rear wheels off the ground. tied down the front with a ratchet strap and lifted the jeep off the rear diff.

changed out the rear disc pads and parking brake shoes -- that was a job too. ended up with a loose parking brake cable under the 2nd row seat.

Rather than take the seat out and tear out the interior (i was about done with the jeep tbh at this point), l unbolted the seat, propped it up, and cut an access hole in the plastic and carpet to get to the parking brake cable. Reattached it and bolted the seat back down. Adjusted the parking brake shoes manually (rotate both adjusters towards front of jeep) and all is well.

She is quiet and smooth now. Nice to hear wind noise over everything else now...

41873

41877
 

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so 2 weekends ago finally swapped out my rear diff for a rebuilt one. Definitely had bad bearings, notchy pinion, and silvery metal in the oil.

put the jeep on a 4post lift with the rear wheels off the ground. tied down the front with a ratchet strap and lifted the jeep off the rear diff.

changed out the rear disc pads and parking brake shoes -- that was a job too. ended up with a loose parking brake cable under the 2nd row seat.

Rather than take the seat out and tear out the interior (i was about done with the jeep tbh at this point), l unbolted the seat, propped it up, and cut an access hole in the plastic and carpet to get to the parking brake cable. Reattached it and bolted the seat back down. Adjusted the parking brake shoes manually (rotate both adjusters towards front of jeep) and all is well.

She is quiet and smooth now. Nice to hear wind noise over everything else now...

View attachment 41873
View attachment 41877
Nice write-up & pics @drm4633;

Thanks for sharing.
 
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