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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 07 Jeep Commander 4.7 4wd that hit 72k and I did the maintenance out of the manual which was rotate tires, engine oil, and inspect the brake system. I just hit 75k in a matter of 10 days going from CA to TX and then back to AZ and the manual says for engine oil, air filter, axles and drive belt. I am unsure of what to do for the axles and Im sure I just inspect the drive belt for the normal wear. Is it necessary to do anything to the drive belt or axles? I also want to change the spark plugs and I have read mixed reviews on the E3's, any thoughts? Thank you.
 

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I'm not sure with the other 4wd systems, but dependent upon what system you have, it requires you to change the axle gear oil, transfer case fluid. In my case I have QDII, I change my gear oil every 15,000 miles and transfer case fluid at 30,000. If you don't know what the previous maintenance was done. I would just play it safe and replace the drive belt. I had a Pontiac grand am, and at 50,000 my drive belt seperated on me while on a trip once. So needless to say I'm all about the preventative maintenance. On the spark plugs I use bosh. I believe there were a couple members that used the e3 plugs and had problems. If you go along with the owners manual, you can't go wrong.
 

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I searched around and found a lot of things and wasn't sure what it was related to there were more transmission components listed. This is my first Jeep and there is more maintenance to be done here then my Evo 9 which needs more attention then most cars. Can anyone direct me to which post would be most helpful such as what fluids and what to do exactly?
 

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do you know what was done to the car by the previous owner? If not, I'd definitely do both axles, the tranny, transfer case and cooling system. The specs for each are listed in the manual. For the cooling system, go with the mopar af, it's good for 5 years.
 

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I have no idea what was done to it. I got the car close to hitting 72k and did what the book says to do, went on a trip to TX anf hit 75K once I got back. I just read up on everything and Im going to change what it asks for, as well as replace the belt and spark pugs. I see that many people go with Royal Purple or M1 for the axles.
 

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I recommend you change all the fluids (excepting those you've done) just so you can establish a baseline......a starting point if you will.
Same goes for plugs and filters, belt, etcetera.
Then as you accrue mileage you can determine what is due for what.

I suggest this to anyone who has purchesed a second hand vehicle.....not just Jeep.

Rob
 

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Go with the service intervals in your owner's manual, unless you drive like a little old lady only on sunny sundays, I'd consider using the "Sever Duty" schedule instead of the "Normal" schedule. Put some thought into it, they describe what makes a sever duty condition, and if you really do NOT meet it, and following the sever schedule is too hard or expensive, you might want to go to the normal or somewhere inbetween for a few items like that.

If you do NOT have service records from the prevous owner, assume only oil was changed, that is all most American Vehicle owners do for servicing their vehicles. So, anything in the service schedule in the owner's manual, that is NOT changing oil, I'd assume was NOT done and the vehicle is overdue.

The modern ignition systems do all sorts of things different from the old systems, NOT just any plug will do anymore. You will see lots of people complaining about switching to a different kind of plug and having ignition problems. I'd just play it safe and replace the plugs with the exact brand/model recommended in the owners manual.

Some of the Jeep Commander's engine have ignition systems that use reverse current on half the plugs, and if you use a single platinum plug with that kind of ignition, half your plugs will be worn out in no time, if you're going to go platinum, go double platinum if your engine has that type of ignition.

Besides, weak ignition costs you power, but after the ingition is strong enough, more ignition energy does NOT get you any more power or economy. Most of the claims plug manufacturers make are bogus, 99.99999% of the time you will NOT get extra power because you switched to a different spark plug. Of course, if your plugs are worn out, you will get back a couple of HP you lost from worn out plugs, so you may notice a little pep from fresh spark plugs, it is just the old pep your motor always had, that you didn't notice degrade slowly over time with the plugs wearing out.

Make sure you have the right fluid, NOT just any fluid that is for Power Steering, for transmissions or axle lube, etc... There is specific recommended fluid you are suppose to use and it will make a difference, again, Owner's Manual will tell you what to use.

Axle Fluid, a lot of the Commander's Owner's Manauls say "If you use the vehicle for Taxi, Fleet or Police use, Tow or Off Road" change the axle fluid every 15k (some 18k) miles. Usually says to use 75W-140 Synthetic Axle Fluid. If you don't meet the Taxi, Fleet, Police, Tow or Off Road, you don't have to change the fluid at all. Towing and Heavy Loads does cook the fluid, so if you are doing a lot of towing or Off Roading, yea, I'd change the fluid that often. I do that stuff only lightly and rarely, if at all, and changing axle fluid every 15k miles is too often for my tastes, as well never changing it is too little IMO also. So, on my own judgement, I change the axle fluid every 30k miles. Of course, if I ever do any real heavy towing or tow often, or do some serous off-roading, like submerge axles in water, I'd go back to the 18k mile change. But, towing an compact car 25 miles or driving over some grass every once in a while, or NOT doing any of that at all, I think I'll be OK waiting to 30k miles to change the fluid.

The Serpentine Belt, my 2010 Owner's Manual says replace at 100k miles. It can't hurt to replace early if you want, as long as you buy a quality replacement and NOT garbage. At least check the belt condition, look for dry rot, cracking, cunking, glazing, if the belt looks good, you can wait until the owner's manual says to change it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you all for the input. After I got the Jeep I went right to the servicing schedule in the manual. My other car is very sensitive on the fluids, belts, plugs, fuel, etc, so I know how that goes. I noted down all the fluid specs and began to look up on what people use on here. So far it seems to be M1 and Mopar.
 

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Battery

Something worth noting as well. If your Commander has the original battery -- I would change that out, due to your mileage and the fact that you are taking a long trip. Mine died right around 80K. I also had a Chrysler Crossfire once (well, my then partner did) and the battery went out around 80K too.

With older cars, you could tell that the battery was gradually going out -- due to starting progressively taking longer. Now, with the newer cars, the battery will just die out of nowhere -- with no warning.
 

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Myself for fluids:
Engine - Mobil1 Synthetic 5W-20, Hastings Oil Filter
Antifreeze - Zerex G-05 mixed 50/50 with distilled water. (This is the only aftermarket HOAT antifreeze I'm aware of, stay away from Prestone or any other brand that claims its "ALL MAKES, ALL MODELS, MIXES WITH ANY COLOR ANTIFREEZE" its Dexcool)
Transmission - AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF (technically NOT ATF+4 you could run into warranty issues, you can get licensed ATF+4 from a dozen different brands in all sorts of stores for half the price of the dealer.
Transfer Case - AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF (same warning about ATF+4), if have the QTII or QDII it uses a different transfer case and fluid.
Axles - AMSOIL Severe Gear Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 (QDII needs friction modifier, AMSOIL is suppose to have it, but warns it might NOT be enough for some vehicles, you may need to add some more if you get noise or problems with the clutchs in the ELSD's)
Brakes - Castrol GTLMA DOT 3&4 Brake Fluid (NOT required in the O.M. but its worth it to flush it out with new every couple of years, 30-60k miles).
Serpentine Belt - Gates or NAPA Premium (which is Gates Rebranded)
Power Steering Fluid - Haven't found an aftermarket equilvalent yet, I get the Dealer MS-10838. O.M. doesn't say to change it, but its worth the time and expense to do it every couple of years, if you do it yourself. Beware, the Dealer's scam folks changing this every 30k miles and charges hundreds of bucks to do it. If you can't do it yourself and save the 100's of bucks, then don't do it, its just NOT cost effective unless you can find a reliable corner garage that will do it for a reasonable cost.

Some people prefer Mobil1, Royal Purple, Redline or AMSOIL, I'm splitting hairs arguing one is better then the other, when I really don't know any better myself. Oh, and Valvoline Synthetics are considered a good brand as well, maybe NOT as much as the prevous list, but you won't go wrong using valvoline if its cheaper and you want to go that route.
 
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