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Discussion Starter #1
I have JK Rubicon wheels on my XK. Rotated them for the 1st time on Sunday and found out, a little too late about my request to use stick-on weights(so the clamp on weights don't dissappear off-road). Well the FRONT caliper clearance is so tight, that the weights now rub on the caliper. I moved the rear to the front. One wheel had stacked weights behind the spokes.

Lesson learned: Don't use stacked stick-on weights mounted behind the spokes. They will have to stack the weights to get the proper distribution....this leads to caliper clearance issues.

:mofo:
 

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good to know...I knew there wasnt much clearence but didnt know it was that tight
 

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I have stick on weights on my rims (stock, painted black), but I also have SpiderTrax 1.5" spacers so they clear just fine.

I wasn't going to go through the trouble of dismounting tires and painting just to chip the paint with wheel weights.
 

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I have JK Rubicon wheels on my XK. Rotated them for the 1st time on Sunday and found out, a little too late about my request to use stick-on weights(so the clamp on weights don't dissappear off-road). Well the FRONT caliper clearance is so tight, that the weights now rub on the caliper. I moved the rear to the front. One wheel had stacked weights behind the spokes.

Lesson learned: Don't use stacked stick-on weights mounted behind the spokes. They will have to stack the weights to get the proper distribution....this leads to caliper clearance issues.

:mofo:
Are you not running wheel spacers? If your not how close are your tires to the ball joint bolt?

I have wheel spacers and a ton of clearance between wheel and caliper now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rubicon JK wheels have a lower offset than the XK wheels. I am only running a 1/4" light weight spacer, just enough for the outside of the caliper to clear. No trimming of the upper ball joint stud was necessary with 255/75/17.


The clearance issue is on the top of the caliper, not the outside, where it says "JEEP"
 

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I have JK Rubicon wheels on my XK. Rotated them for the 1st time on Sunday and found out, a little too late about my request to use stick-on weights(so the clamp on weights don't dissappear off-road). Well the FRONT caliper clearance is so tight, that the weights now rub on the caliper. I moved the rear to the front. One wheel had stacked weights behind the spokes.

Lesson learned: Don't use stacked stick-on weights mounted behind the spokes. They will have to stack the weights to get the proper distribution....this leads to caliper clearance issues.

:mofo:
A couple of things--- First, stick-on weights should never be stacked. They can place them side-by-side or end-to-end, but they should not be placed on top of each other. If more weight is needed at one particular spot, then can place them at the same spot on the wheel, but just slightly inboard of the other weights.

Secondly, any good tire tech should know that a wheel/tire that needs a lot of weights to balance correctly should be dismounted and rotated 180 degrees. This will almost always allow less weights to be used because it will bring the "heavy" spot on the tire more toward the "light" spot on the wheel. This is especially true of truck/SUV tires and wheels. The idea is to match the heavy and light spots to minimize the amount of weight needed to balance the wheel/tire in the first place. This is also the reason why you see red/yellow dots on the tires of new cars. The tires are marked from the manufacturer to allow them to be placed in the best spot on the wheel (usually next to the valve stem) to minimize wheel weights and ease balancing.
 
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