[PhilCommanderPayne]

I've just realised that I may have messed up my OME order.

I've seen that they do 2 different strut types:

The Nitrocharger - Strut N188S & the N190 rear shock
&
The Nitrocharger Sport (Firmer valved shock) - strut N219S & rear shock N220

I've ordered the firmer valved ones thinking that was the HD setup, but when i go on JBA they suggest using the N188S & the N190 rear shocks and i saw a comment that @kolak made on Jeep Forum, "The firmer valved struts and shocks were released some years after the original ones. I would only consider using them for exceptionally laden vehicles"

I think maybe I’ve made an error and have ordered the too highly valued shocks which will mean that my ride will be a lot harsher and not as forgiving.

When anyone has purchased the HD setup, which shocks have you gone for?

Any help would be really really appreciated. Thanks

 

[consumedbywater]

I've just realised that I may have messed up my OME order.

I've seen that they do 2 different strut types:

The Nitrocharger - Strut N188S & the N190 rear shock
&
The Nitrocharger Sport (Firmer valved shock) - strut N219S & rear shock N220

I've ordered the firmer valved ones thinking that was the HD setup, but when i go on JBA they suggest using the N188S & the N190 rear shocks and i saw a comment that @kolak made on Jeep Forum, "The firmer valved struts and shocks were released some years after the original ones. I would only consider using them for exceptionally laden vehicles"

I think maybe I’ve made an error and have ordered the too highly valued shocks which will mean that my ride will be a lot harsher and not as forgiving.

When anyone has purchased the HD setup, which shocks have you gone for?

Any help would be really really appreciated. Thanks

I don't think you'll have any problems with too firm of a ride. When you consider that OME designed their suspensions for the WK, even a stock XK adds plenty of weight to warrant the HD setup.

 

[PhilCommanderPayne]

After running a Crown (Rough Country equivalent) lift for a year, and finding its limits while off roading, I decided it was time to upgrade. I initially planned to go for OME HD springs alone, but after trying them out and seeing no additional height over the spacer lift, so I decided to go for a modified OME. I didn't go for OME shocks, instead using Bilstein 4600 stock struts up front and Monroe F-150 Load Levelling shocks in the rear.

Here's where I was at before, with the spacer lift. Ball joint angles were pretty bad, so I decided to go for JBA UCAs as well. For a modified OME, that's an absolutely necessary upgrade.

here, with some additional images as well detailing some other parts of the installation.

Hey cbw, so what size and make wheels you rocking in this photo?

 

[PhilCommanderPayne]

After running a Crown (Rough Country equivalent) lift for a year, and finding its limits while off roading, I decided it was time to upgrade. I initially planned to go for OME HD springs alone, but after trying them out and seeing no additional height over the spacer lift, so I decided to go for a modified OME. I didn't go for OME shocks, instead using Bilstein 4600 stock struts up front and Monroe F-150 Load Levelling shocks in the rear.

Here's where I was at before, with the spacer lift. Ball joint angles were pretty bad, so I decided to go for JBA UCAs as well. For a modified OME, that's an absolutely necessary upgrade.

here, with some additional images as well detailing some other parts of the installation.

Hey cbw Yeah going to give them a try..

so what size and make wheels you rocking in this photo?

 

[drm4633]

his garage says "247/70R17 General Grabber AT2s mounted on factory wheels"


but not sure on the 247? maybe 245?

 

[consumedbywater]

his garage says "247/70R17 General Grabber AT2s mounted on factory wheels"

but not sure on the 247? maybe 245?

Seems like a bug in the forums. That number changes randomly, right now its at 246 for me. But yes, it should be a 245.

However, in these photos I'm on a different set of wheels and tires. These are a set of 265/70R18s on Jeep WK2 wheels. With my spacers, the wheels are sitting at about 5.2" of backspacing. The tires stand 32.6" tall, about the same height as a 285/70R17.

 

[PhilCommanderPayne]

his garage says "247/70R17 General Grabber AT2s mounted on factory wheels"

but not sure on the 247? maybe 245?

Seems like a bug in the forums. That number changes randomly, right now its at 246 for me. But yes, it should be a 245.

However, in these photos I'm on a different set of wheels and tires. These are a set of 265/70R18s on Jeep WK2 wheels. With my spacers, the wheels are sitting at about 5.2" of backspacing. The tires stand 32.6" tall, about the same height as a 285/70R17.

Something I’ve just been thinking about. When you start lifting (even slightly - with a 3/8 front spacer and hopefully if I can find one a 1” spacer rear) over the OME lift do I need to change out my track bar for an adjustable one so that the Jeep doesn’t become lop sided because of the added height?

 

[consumedbywater]

Something I’ve just been thinking about. When you start lifting (even slightly - with a 3/8 front spacer and hopefully if I can find one a 1” spacer rear) over the OME lift do I need to change out my track bar for an adjustable one so that the Jeep doesn’t become lop sided because of the added height?

Your rear axle will be out of position; you'll need an adjustable track bar and control arms to get it properly centered and spaced in the wheel wells. Mine wasn't far enough out of alignment to warrant that extra cost though; I had an extra couple degrees of thrust, but it was minimal. And the Jeep still sat perfectly level.

What you will absolutely need to do, though, is notch or bend your gas tank skid plate. The driver's side rear upper control arm will make contact with it. I just used a pry bar and a hammer to push the skid plate down flush with the tank and that gave me enough room for decent droop.

You'll also need to consider whether you want to keep your sway bars. The front sway bar is pretty important for handling, so you'll probably want to keep it. With 3-4" of lift, though, the end links are pretty short, so you may want adjustable front end links. The rear end links are too short too, but with the OME springs I felt that the sway bar was unnecessary, so I just removed it.

 

[PhilCommanderPayne]

Your rear axle will be out of position; you'll need an adjustable track bar and control arms to get it properly centered and spaced in the wheel wells. Mine wasn't far enough out of alignment to warrant that extra cost though; I had an extra couple degrees of thrust, but it was minimal. And the Jeep still sat perfectly level.

What you will absolutely need to do, though, is notch or bend your gas tank skid plate. The driver's side rear upper control arm will make contact with it. I just used a pry bar and a hammer to push the skid plate down flush with the tank and that gave me enough room for decent droop.

You'll also need to consider whether you want to keep your sway bars. The front sway bar is pretty important for handling, so you'll probably want to keep it. With 3-4" of lift, though, the end links are pretty short, so you may want adjustable front end links. The rear end links are too short too, but with the OME springs I felt that the sway bar was unnecessary, so I just removed it.

Thanks CBW, what would I do without you!
But with yours you added spacers ontop of the OME lift right and you managed to get to 23” hub to fender and the alignment was still ok, so I’m hoping that mine may be ok too.

I’ll def want to keep my sway bars too. What can having short end links do, what is the negative?

 

[consumedbywater]

Thanks CBW, what would I do without you!
But with yours you added spacers ontop of the OME lift right and you managed to get to 23” hub to fender and the alignment was still ok, so I’m hoping that mine may be ok too.

I’ll def want to keep my sway bars too. What can having short end links do, what is the negative?

Correct, with the JBA UCAs up front I had no alignment issues.

Having short end links can cause some serious problems and suspension damage. The sway bar and end links form a joint similar to an elbow. They're designed to bend in only one direction, and as the suspension droops the joint will extend out. The concern is if the joint reaches full extension; just like you can lock your elbow, this joint can lock, and if it does there can be significant damage to the suspension, sway bar, and even the frame. The idea of a longer sway arm is to make sure that the joint can never extend fully.